The problem is with a 97 T/A the headlamps when shut off will keep on running even when the lamp is in the down position. Sounds like something is clicking inside. Any ideas I own a Camaro and anm clueless on this.

 

Never dealt with it before, but I'm taking a mechanically educated guess and saying there is either a limit switch or relay out of wack.

 

when use turn them on/off, does it make a horrible grinding noise? if so, you need to replace the gear in which ever headlight motor does it, theres a thread somewhere on here on what to do and who sells the gears. if you put the headlights down, and about 5 seconds later, one pops back up, the motor is going shot. mine is like that, i was told to either buy a new motor, which is a little pricey, or if you're lucky, you can have someone take it apart and resolder the connections in it. the way it was explained to me, is that it's kind of like your windshield wiper motors. when you put the headlights down, inside the motor, theres a little relay or something that opens, and it should stay open until you turn the switch again to put up your headlights, but if the relay is messed up, it doesnt stay open, and it closes right away...thus sending the headlight right back up. i havent tried to fix it since im hopefully trading my car in for a 00 ws6...but i would think that as long as you can get the motor apart, any knowledgable electrician would be able to fix it....

 

All 4th gen Firebird headlights work off the same idea... no limit switch or internal relay! What happens is there is a control module behind the driver side headlight. This control module controls the 12v power going to the headlight motors. What actually stops the motors are HARD STOPS. When the light hits the hard stop, the motor draws a lot of current because it is trying to spin and can't. The control module senses this high current draw and kills the 12v going to the motor. The problem with this and why nearly all of them fail is the motor worm drive is metal and it is driving a nylon gear. After a period of time, this constant abuse and continued "hammering" on the nylon gear takes its toll and it strips. When it strips, the light will make a terrible noise for a few seconds after it stops because the motor worm drive teeth are ratcheting on the stripped nylon gear teeth. Not enough current is being drawn though to actually killl power to the motor so it continues to run (until I believe it "times out" but not certain on that aspect).

Lovely design

I've got a lot more info here about this and even a free fix that sometimes works... for a little while anyway

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/index.htm

 

maybe thats what the guy was telling me, now that you say it, it makes more sense. but my headlight will go up and down fine, with no noise anymore (i turned the gear). but after it goes down, give it like 5 seconds, and it goes right back up again. have any ideas for that?


i dont mean to steal the thread, but i didnt wanna start another one on the same topic.

 

Yep, sure do I'm going to add all my headlight knowledge (thousands of emails with people ) to my page here soon when I get a chance!

There are plastic tabs/stops built into the front headlight frame assembly. Look down in there with the light down or up and you'll see that the raise/lower arm is making contact with one of these stops. Look at the light that is working properly and you'll see two of these stops. Now look at the light that is cycling on you and you'll see just one

Aside from spending bookoo $$$ on a new plastic bar/piece, you'll need to make your own but it is easy. Get a drill and drill out there area where the stop used to be. Use a bolt and a nut or two and "create" your own stop with the bolt and nuts. What you'll do is put the bolt through the plastic piece and on the other side put a nut or two that the raise/lower arm will make contact with. By doing this you replace your broken plastic stop with the bolt and nut(s).