After getting my clutch in and tranny back in and all hooked up, my clutch fork WILL NOT go in far enough to engage the throw out bearing on the clutch or whatever its called.

I pushed it in as far as it would go with my hand, and then hooked up the slave cylinder. I could push the clutch in a few inches then it would just stop, like it hit a wall. Took off the slave cylinder and it had bent the rod.

Does anyone know what would cause the clutch fork to not properly engage the bearing? I was told as long as the transmission slid in and bolted up no problem everything was lined up right in the clutch.

someone help me out please

 

There is a clip that holds the fork onto the "t" stud that it pivots on. Check and make sure that clip isnt bent funny or something and alows it to slide in all the way.

Thats about all i can tell you, dont know what else it could be, unless the T/O bearing is too big or soemthing and the fork isnt hooking onto it all the way.

 

Well, what kind of clutch did you go with? If you have the LT1 style throw out bearing then it is round. If you have the LT4 style then it is square and you may have to rotate the flywheel some to get it on there. That is what I had to do.

 

Its the Spec stage 4 for the LT1, the throw out bearing looked round to me. I finally did get the fork up to what seemed like fully engaged, but when i hooked up the slave and hit the clutch it just bent the pushrod again.

Is there any chance you cannot run the stock slave with this heavier clutch?

 

I have a spec stage 2 and it was not round. I thought I had the fork on all the way and when I pressed the pedal, I snapped the rod going from the pedal to the master cylinder! Try turning the crank or flywheel and see if it eventually slides into place.

If you bent/broke the rod the first time you tried it though, it may not hold up with it in correctly now.

 

I had the same problem with mine. Spec stage 2. Just take a hammer and give it a tap.....It will go on more. I did it by hand and told my self it was ok but it really wasnt. So i ended up bending the slave rod and the whole slave cylinder blew apart. That impression in the fork (were the rod goes) should line up in between the 2 studs that stick out there. You should not be able to pull the fork off the throwout bearing by hand easy. It needs a good tug to come off of it.

let us know what happens

Kyle

 

i have recently installed a spec stage 3 and the trow out bearing was square, it took a while but i got it lined up. one way i could tell if it was in right was to manually push the fork in by hand. if you push on it and its not quite in all the way, it will pop right back out of place. when its in right you can push on it as hard as you can, and it will feel just a little springy.

 

I had the same problem when I installed my Spec 3. Bent the shaft a little. I rotated the engine a little and used a flashlight to verify things inside the bellhousing looked correct and was able to get the clutch fork fully onto the bearing. It should feel a little springy when on correctly. I have also found that if you remove the cap on the slave cylinder resevoir and push the actuator shaft all the way in a few times with your hand, then install it on the fork shaft, it seems to help. I think this bleeds out any air that may be in the system. Did you by any chance work the clutch while the slave cylinder was disconnected? Thats a no-no.

 

You guys were right

I put a socket on the crack pully and turned the engine over abit, then it slid right up on there.

Frustrating that such a simple thing took me about 6 hours of messing around to figure out.