4L80E swap in depth w/ pics

I would like to thank the few people that started the threads involving swapping a 4L80E in a 4th gen F-Body. It gave me the courage to start the project. I am putting close to 600hp down at the wheels and have been though five 4L60E rebuilds by a reputable tranny shop. I would like to drive this car down the beach sometimes and whenever I feel like it so loosing the overdrive is not an option. A gear vendor unit is kind of expensive and frankly I just don't like it. Now some will argue to their death they can get a 4L60E to hold 1000hp and maybe they can. I found I paid as much for the 4L80E as they are building these 4L60Es for. Now of course I have to pay for other things but in my eyes this is peice of mind. I know the 4L80E will hold up and I won't have to worry about it. Here is my cost so far: 4L80E tranny built with Kolene steels, red frictions and a upgraded input shaft - $2250 which cam down to $1700 with trade in of partially blown up 4L60E tranny, Pro-Torque 4L80E stall converter - $895, TCI 377000 PCM - $700 (from Combination Motorsports, thanx Dave), BMR Track-Pack - $329 (my other BMR torque arm won't bolt to a 4L80E, if I would of bought this in the first place I wouldn't be worrying about it now!) I haven't got to the custome crossmember yet but I figure fabrication will run about $200 tops and finally my drive shaft shortening and balancing $75. So in reality this put me at about $3900 which is about $300 more then a level 3 4L60E and converter. Not bad in my book.

Now I am going to try to document this install as much as possible and include pics of things I find. If anyone has any questions or needs and pics that aren't on here let me know and I will try to get them. I will document things and include pics as I go. Here are links to the pics:
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In the following pic the tranny has an "ear" on the drivers side. Unless you beat the tunnel with a hammer this will have to be cut off.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/cutear.jpg
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Next the spot where the wiring harness comes out of the 4L80E is right where the crossmember bolts to the 4L60E. I plan on cutting a hole in this and run the wiring inside.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/plugclrnc.jpg
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Here are the coolant line clearances. Now I heard that someone had to hammer their tunnel to get these to clear. I went with an older style 4L80E case. They have both of their lines towards the front. The newer style has one towards the back and hammering might be neccessary.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/lineclrnc.jpg
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This is the corner of the tranny housing which will have to be cut off. The edge is touching my exhaust. It is only used to bolt the dust cover plate up and there are enough to use without it so it will be gone.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/cvrmount1.jpg
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Here is a shot of the driver side clearance

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/drvclrnc.jpg
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These next pics should give you an idea how far the tranny comes back compared to the 4L60E. The mounting point is way off.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/mount1.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/mount2.jpg
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Here are pics of the TCI kit, harness and wiring diagram:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/tcikit1.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/tcipcm.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/tcidiag.jpg
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That's what I have so far. Not too much but hopefully it will help someone that is in the same position I was in. I will keep things updated as I go. I look to finish within the next week. I will be waiting on the converter so it's the only thing stopping me now. If there are any questions please let me know. OrionSPL@comcast.net

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/ssss.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/dyno1.wmv

Thanks a lot! I'd appreciate if you keep the info coming.

Rich Krause

I plan on doing more work on it this weekend so I will get more info up then. Everything looks like it will bolt up and clear pretty nicely. Luckily the tranny shop I deal with was nice enough to lend me an empty case to measure everything up with. I will keep posting.

:cool:

Very cool

(checking Email Notification option at this time :D)

I love you man... :bow:

Try to get some shots from further away so we can see it in relationship to the other stuff under there.

Thanks a million. If my "everything under the sun" Art Carr 4L60e doesn't hold up, I'll be going that direction...

As I posted in that other thread, the 4L80 is a very attractive idea. I just didn't want to be the guy to work out all the bugs!

Thanks again for keeping us posted.

Rich Krause

Ok, couple more things...

This is "no crap" step and it may get this post thrown out of the advanced tech thread but I'm including it anyway :) Measure the distance from the top of the intake to top of the cowling before you remove your 4L60E. You of will want the same angle or distance when you are finished installing the 4L80E. This will be needed to get the plane correct on your crossmember. I have a BMR K-Member with poly motor mounts and when I removed the 4L60E crossmember my tranny doesn't drop more then a 1/4 of an inch. Those mounts are tough!

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As far as shots that aren't real close up it's tough at this point because the car isn't on a lift and I'm on the ground taking them. Let me know if the follow shots help:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/rearshot1.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/rearshot2.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/rearshot3.jpg

Like I said this is an empty case I am working with and when I get the real tranny next week I will try to get it higher with better shots.
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Here are a few shots of the transmissions together to see the size differences:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/2trans1.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/2trans2.jpg

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Ok, here is the passenger side of the old style 4L80E case. Once again both lines are together and this style will probably make it easier to install since I won't have to hammer the passenger side tunnel. And again the newer style has one line towards the rear of the transmission.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/lines1.jpg

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Here is a shot of the driver side of the 4L80E. The biggest problem is the wiring harness plug which unfortunately is right in the way of the metal the 4L60E crossmember bolts too. Besides making the crossmember this is the part you will probably spend the most time working on. So it really isn't a big deal.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/4L80Edrv1.jpg

You'll also notice two speed sensor holes which are above the shifter cable mount and harness plug. The front is the speed sensor in (labeled TISS on the TCI harness) and the rear is the speed sensor out (labeled TOSS on the TCI PCM harness). This differs from the 4L60E as it has it's single speed sensor in the tailshaft.

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Now these are the things that will need to be removed from the case of the 4L80E transmission to get it up into the tunnel. Unless you feel like beating the hell out of your tunnel. Even so I don't know if you would be able to do it with the ear left on:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/cvrboltdrv.jpg

In the picture above the bolt hole furthest to the left is the driver side bolt hole for the dust cover. In my application I can leave this intact. For some exhausts you may have to cut it off.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/cvrboltpas.jpg

In the above pic the bolt hole where the tag is tied touchs my exhaust. This will have to be removed. You will still be left with 4 bolts to hold the cover so no big deal.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/removeear.jpg

The picture above it the ear after I cut it off.

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Ok in the next pictures I simply marked the section that needed to be cut by the old crossmember mount and then cut it. And no I couldn't make a straight line with the tranny in the way!

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/holemark.jpg

The next pic is the cut I made:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/holecut1.jpg

All cuts, both to the tranny case and sheet metal in the car were cut with just a Dremel.

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That's all I have right now. Next I will be going inside the car and punching the rest of the way through the tunnel maybe with a hole saw so I can put a round grommet in there. That will keep water and everything out. At that point I really can't do anything else until I get the converter and transmission. If anyone has any questions feel free to email me at OrionSPL@comcast.net or shoot me an IM my sn is JAKA55

Rich I see you aren't too far away. Why don't you swing down and help instead of me being the guiena pig by myself. :)

what cars do 4L80's come in? how much can they handle stock?

Heavy duty trucks from '93 (I think...) on. Good for over 400 rwhp I hear. Built supposedly 1000...

I've heard they are built like a turbo 400 with overdrive.

lol i should be good with a stock one then. thanks for the info

oh, will the 4L80 bolt up to an lt1? thanks -dave

yep...

Yes they will all bolt up. The 350s use a standard bolt pattern for the trannies. I assume the big blocks use this also. The LS1s have a 7th bolt in the middle of the bell housing instead of the 6. You can get a 4L80E with this bolt pattern also.

Ok, not much has been done in the past week. I am waiting on the torque conveter which will be here sometime next week. However, I am getting the BMR Trak-Pack welded in and the crossmember made Monday. I will get pics of that from the lift. I have taken a few shots as far away as I could get from the floor so you can see things a little better. Here's what I got.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/sideview1.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/sideview2.jpg

Looks good. Keep it comin' :)



BTW, looks like you need some glavanizing paint on those SFC welds... the nearest weld is looking a bit brown. :)

Ok, I don't really know anything about the welds or I would be welding this crap in myself. :) Anyway, a guy at a local shop did finished the BMR trak-pack and cross-member for the tranny. He said the welds on the SFC looked ok. I guess the paint would be to stop rust? They were done at a local muffler shop and cost like $30 so I couldn't expect much. Atleast I made sure the car was at ride height and level before they were welded. I will try to get some more pics tomorrow with it on the lift (depending if he gets it off the lift before I get there). The tranny will be done tomorrow and the converter will ship from ProTorque by Friday.

yeah, the welds look fine, but I'd slap some zinc-paint on there to stop it from rusting off.

When we did mine I thought I got all of the welds (double-diamond set up), but one rocker panel I checked the next morning already had a small rust spot on it. One rattle-can from Walmart later... no problems. :)

Ok, thanx man.

Pretty interesting stuff bro. Hey, you HAVE been busy I see....
Yea, it's me, the chevelle guy, I can't wait to see your car run again after all this work. It's gonna be in the "sick" catagory.
Hopefully my velle will be ready to run soon also...

keep up the good work....

Heavy

Thanks man. I am hoping to get there this Friday if the torque converter gets here in time. If not next Wednesday. I will have to make a trip to Atco since you go there more.

Ok, the crossmember is done (except painting) and the torque arm is in. Here are pics of the crossmember. I will take some more of it out of the vehicle tonight when i start painting it.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/crossmem2.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/crossmem3.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/crossmem4.jpg

Wow. Nice work on the cross-brace. Looks sweet. :)

Is it fairly solid? No problems with flexing or bolt sheer? (I imagine those are at least grade 8 bolts).

very slick fabrication... almost a shame to have it hidden under the car. :)

The crossmember was made from some type of chromoly. I forget what he said it was equal to in mild steel but it was an overkill for stength which suites me just fine. It is also fairly light. Since the empty shell 4L80E is up there he just threw in whatever bolts he had laying around. I used allen bolts for my oil pan so I will probably get some for this also. They are strong as hell. I was worrying about the bend and the contact point being so far back. I was told with the torque arm not being bolted to the tranny I am taking a considerable amount of load from it and that the crossmember will be more then adequate. Now it's just a matter of getting the damn converter. I will start bugging Pro-Torque tomorrow.

Ok, the transmission is in. I will get some more pics as soon as I can. I am having problems with the linkage. You have to keep moving it in and out of gear to get it into the correct gear. When I figure this out I will post some info. Atleast I got it moving. I have to bring it to the builders (Del-Trans) to make sure the pressures are ok. One thing that has to be done is I had to cut a bigger hole in the tunnel for the plug. You are not getting the plug in without cutting that. Here's the pic:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/plughole1.jpg

I will post more soon.

Still looking good. Shoot me an email when you go to the track whether it's Atco or Cecil...

I am still in the process of swapping cams.
I am anxiously awaiting my next set of track runs!

Ok, here are some pics of the finished product:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/trans1.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/trans2.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/orionspl/transmount1.jpg

The cable linkage mount had to be replaced with something they had. They just did some tweaking and it works great. Above have more pics of the mount and everything. TCI includes a base for a 4L80E with their software and I am using it and it shifts fine and feels good. I don't really like how low the BMR trak-pack is. As you can see it has already hit something after about 20 miles of driving. I think in my application I could have went with a bar without a bend.

Another project down and now to the next project! I was 2 miles from the track and my car started running like crap. I think it is the opti. Dear god getting to it behind the supercharger and all is going to be a pain! I am looking at DelTeq to do one of their coil conversions. As you can see I started posting questions about alternatives to the dreaded opti in this forum. If anyone has any questions about the 4L80E swap let me know. My email is OrionSPL@comcast.net

This is a good tech write-up. I'm glad to hear that you're happy with the TCU. Have you ran your car with the 4L80E yet? How did your time compare to that of the 4L60E?
TIA,
Kevin Winstead
TCI Automotive

I installed the supercharger around christmas and never got to run it with the 4L60E. I recently ran it with 4L80E and it's going 11.2@120 was my best. I need more tire. Here's a video of one run...

http://members.aol.com/jaka55/jakass1.wmv

http://members.aol.com/jaka55/

Was that controller required? I had a 4L60E originally....could the computer in my car not control a 4L80E? I saw the tci controller appears to control both.

Joe

The stock PCMs from Camaro/Firebirds cannot control the 4L80E. You will need an aftermarket unit. Unless you want to go full manual with it.

subscribing.

Just wanted to subscribe to this thread, I'm thinking of doing the swap myself.

Jose

Heavy duty trucks from '93 (I think...) on. Good for over 400 rwhp I hear. Built supposedly 1000...

I've heard they are built like a turbo 400 with overdrive.


That is correct. They share the exact same components for the 1st-3rd gears.

The stock PCMs from Camaro/Firebirds cannot control the 4L80E. You will need an aftermarket unit. Unless you want to go full manual with it.

Actually Art Carr tells me you can have hte stock PCM control it by swaping a wire over on the harness.

Great write up, as I am about to start a 4L80E swap of my own due to my Art Carr 4L60E failing when I put 600+ rwhp to it :(

BTW, does anyone know how much longer the 4L80E sits back then the 4L60e ?

I have a Spohn chassis mount torque arm that I am hoping I can keep with the 4L80E.

GREAT WRITE UP i will be doing one of these in about 2 years. also the aftermarket computer big stuff http://www.azatek.com/details.asp?iid=733 also can control the 4l80e and a coil conversion i am getting one of these too :D

Well my 4L80E swap is complete, its in the car and ready to go. Just working with Art Carr to get the last bit of wiring done so that my stock PCM will control the 4L80e. :)

my stock PCM will control the 4L80e. :)

I am doing a 4l80e swap as well(th400w/brake and 4000+ stall is fun but on a daily driver without OD getting old)

The aftermarket controllers are too pricey so I have been looking into using the diesel standalone controller or going full manual. Full manual would be ok, but sometimes its nice letting the trans do all the shifting. The problem with a diesel controller is(afaik) that shift points and firmness are not readily reprogramable, so they may be ok as is or not.

I was also under the impression that the stock pcm could not control a 4l80e, so this is great news. If you could elaborate on using the stock pcm and what wires have to be swapped, that would help tremendously.

Thanks,
Paul

Well I have learned that the stock PCM will NOT control the 4L80e. Atelast not 94-94 PCMs. They claim that the LS1 PCMs will with a custom harness from speartech.com. However Art Carr sent me a free TCI tranny controller for my 4L80e to compensate for their mistake. However after installing this TCI unit I can tell you its GARBAGE. has no TCC controls whatsoever, and the calibration is way off for gear ratios and tire sizes. Even the tech at TCI said this miscalibration is common. I had to tell it I have 33 inch slicks and a 2.73 rear gear for it to even shift right at part throttle. And WOT shifts dont happen when I tell it to. I didnt even pay for the controller and I am sending it back along with ym 4L80e to Art Carr. the 4L80e swap was the worst idea EVER. It turned into a nightmare and I am going back to a built 4L60e with a triple disc converter. Since after removing my 4L60e I found the converter blew up, not the tranny. Learn from my experience and go full manual on the 4L80e or get a different controller. Or better yet jsut add a gear vendor unit on to your TH400. It will cost less then going to a 4L80e anyway.

MY advice, DONT DO IT.

I read the poster above and wanted to reply.

2 grand for a gear vendor plus driveshaft work. 2plus grand for a 4l60. Cost is about neutral. 4L80 handles more torque from the factory.

I have a 4L80e with the TCI controller and must disagree with what is posted. I don't know what he wants but....... I have consistant shifts and wot shifts at the shift point I set. It is a better option than the 4L60 just based on stock replacement alone.

With any aftermarket controller there can be some issues. I have FAST for my fuel controller and it is good.. but has small issues..... but is a ton better than stock ecu.

I like my 4L80E and TCI controller.

How much more power can a 4L80 hold stock vs built?

Very informative thread!! Am I correct in assuming that the same modifications to the tunnel will be needed on an '02 Z28?

I been thru the whole thread, but no info about weight of 4L80 vs 4L60, are they the same I dont think so, 100lbs roughly a car length or a 10th sec. in 1/4

opinion, the weak link will be the driveshaft, unless you spend good money, not a cut down stocker. of course using tires that can lift the fronts

The 4l60e is 163 wet and the 4l80e is 255 wet so you are correct. The only other thing that has been mentioned in some of what I've read was the efficiency of the 4l80e is also lower and thus people are seeing a 2-3 tenths drop in the quarter instead of just 1/10.

If you have over 600 hp then you need the 4l80e. You can argue over 100lbs. all you want. The only other option is reducing HP if you want overdrive. How many of you want to do that??????:D It would be cheaper that way!

HEY! some place on a forum I seen a 4L60E, that shifted using toggle switches on the dash, now he had a shift lever that had ,park,reverse, neutral, no drive position, lever in neutral, he put both switches up, good solid 1st, runs it it out pushes #1 one switch down, bang into second,holds it down pushes# 2 switch down ,bang into 3rd, for 4th he pushes #1 switch back up. I sure would like to know more about that system . anybody got info thanks RON

HEY! some place on a forum I seen a 4L60E, that shifted using toggle switches on the dash, now he had a shift lever that had ,park,reverse, neutral, no drive position, lever in neutral, he put both switches up, good solid 1st, runs it it out pushes #1 one switch down, bang into second,holds it down pushes# 2 switch down ,bang into 3rd, for 4th he pushes #1 switch back up. I sure would like to know more about that system . anybody got info thanks RON

That involves a manual valvebody with possible custom controls I would bet. I would start a new topic about this, it doesn't belong in the 4l80e discussion and you won't get responses.

One way to shift the 4L60E or 4L80E electronically is to combine a TCI Automotive TCU (Transmission Control Unit) and a Twisted Machine Paddle Shifter.

http://www.tciauto.com/electronics/index.htm

http://www.twistmachine.com/

Kevin

Why not a 700R4?

Why not a 700R4?
The 700R4 is very close in strength to the 4L60E. The 4L80E has a lot higher torque capacity.
Kevin

Great work keep it up, I'm still debating my options when my 4l60E goes more then likely I won't stick with. Already bounces off the rev limiter once or twice at WOT

im running a basically stock 4l80 with transgo manual valve body kit in a 3600lb truck running mid 10s with no problems.The trans has new redline clutches in it and all the wave plates removed from clutch packs.everything else is stock in it besides the 3600 yank converter.I love the trans,it shifts great each and everytime.I had a "built" 700r4 from art carr that I destroyed 5 times.I will never go back

How do you control the speedo ???

thanks

..for the speedo use one of the wires from the speed sensors. There is a link in the first post of this thread with the wiring diagram.

-Shawn

Thanks....how do you find the 4l80 after some time with it.....

brining this OLD Thread Back. I am gathering the rest of the parts that I need to do this swap. The built 4L80E is here, along with the BMR crossmember, and TCI controller. The only things I need seems to be a TCI Flywheel Part number 399-174 (small pattern will work perfect with a Vig), Vig converter, and a Driveshaft.
What is everyone using as a Dipstick? The firewall mount Lokar piece??

The dust shield tabs are cut on each side, so I should not have any clearence problems and the only thing I should have to cut on the car is on the driverside tunnel for the TCI box to plug into the 4L80E correct??

What about the Tranny cooler lines??? Can I reuse the stock cooler lines and fittingers??? Are the fittings 1/4 inch???

The car is a Blower car and I am going to do the Tranny and the motor together at the same time (Thank God I have a Lift literally) Does the TCI Controller come with a Base tune for the 4L80E so I can upload it for break in miles before I slap the Blower belt on??? I wouldn't have any idea how to tune it unless its that easy. BTW do I have to have a Lab top to do so or can I just use my homecomputer and upload that info from the TCI box?????

Thanks for any help fellows, any other advice I missed I'd appreciate.

Lastly, can you reuse the stock shifter setup from the 4L60E?? I don't want a B&M shifter or anything I want it stock looking. I think I have seen some LS1 guys do that wondering if you guys knew anything about it?

OK ill will do a try to answer some of you Qs.
Dip stick, yes the lokar will work, we use a "short" one, ill think it was around 25", widh a little cutting and bending on the top fasterner it will fit perfect to the bolt hole between inj 6 and 8.
Cutting, yepp just a little cutting on the driver side http://home.koping.net/u3243a/tillfalliga/DSC02272.JPG
Tranny coler lines, yepp, you could reuse them (little bending) but it isnt gonna be much room to "torque" them, i changed them after oure 2nd converter change....
Tuning of the TCI box? no idea, we use the stock PCM ;)
shifter, yes you can use the stock shifter, I did build an offset mount under the tranny but its possible that you can use the stock one and adjust the shifter cable.

12secondz can build one for 1400 that will hold up and not cost you the tenths of a 4l80e

T/A Kid,
The tuning of the TCI controller is relatively simple. It does come with a base tune as well. You can simply use your Home PC if you don't have a laptop, however, I'd recommend either borrowing a laptop from a friend (preferably an older one with a serial port) or getting the optional 25 foot cable from TCI in order to monitor TPS % upon initial programming. If you need help, just shoot me an email to kevin@tciauto.com

Tuning of the TCI box? no idea, we use the stock PCM
Man I am no where near as talented as you when it comes to wire crap up, lol. Sucks but I had to get the TCI control box, heard it was plug and play.:)

Critter I would like to see someone who could build me a 4L60E for 1400 that I could beat on day in day out (street car) at 650-700RWHP. The best guy I know told me the way I drive it about 1 every year at 2200 a pop for a 4L60E on average. In my opinion you may not lose any time with the 4L80E. I know its around 90lbs heavier on average (converter Size etc) but I really like the idea of the 2.48 first gear. Traction could be easier to attain opposed to the 4L60E's 3.06 and the car will have a better shift extension meaning it won't drop as many RPM's between shifts with the 4L80E. Many guys I see don't loose any time at all.

The tuning of the TCI controller is relatively simple. It does come with a base tune as well. You can simply use your Home PC if you don't have a laptop, however, I'd recommend either borrowing a laptop from a friend (preferably an older one with a serial port) or getting the optional 25 foot cable from TCI in order to monitor TPS % upon initial programming.

Great good to know, My buddy does have a Laptop so I may just borrow his. Does it come with the hookups to the car to make changes instant via laptop?? I suppose it does but I need to ask, lol:)

Man I am no where near as talented as you when it comes to wire crap up, lol. Sucks but I had to get the TCI control box, heard it was plug and play.:)

Critter I would like to see someone who could build me a 4L60E for 1400 that I could beat on day in day out (street car) at 650-700RWHP. The best guy I know told me the way I drive it about 1 every year at 2200 a pop for a 4L60E on average. In my opinion you may not lose any time with the 4L80E. I know its around 90lbs heavier on average (converter Size etc) but I really like the idea of the 2.48 first gear. Traction could be easier to attain opposed to the 4L60E's 3.06 and the car will have a better shift extension meaning it won't drop as many RPM's between shifts with the 4L80E. Many guys I see don't loose any time at all.



Great good to know, My buddy does have a Laptop so I may just borrow his. Does it come with the hookups to the car to make changes instant via laptop?? I suppose it does but I need to ask, lol:)

12/08/2006 CPT Pro Race 4l60e runs 9's.

One of our Customer's has finally hit the 9's after 8 months of running our Pro Race 4l60e through many low 10 second passes.

The following is an excerpt from a thread on Camaroz28.com about CPT's work. "I wanted to let you and everyone know how good of a tranny this actually was. I got the Pro Race Tranny.....yea it was 1600.00 but it was well worth it after dealing with a local guy and going through 5 tranny's I finally found CPT. I got my stock 4l60 to a 10.9 and it finally took a ****. With Franks tranny I was going consistant 10.3 and pulling 1.4 60fts. I had my best ET ever which was a 9.7 @ 144.57 mph and a 1.39 60ft."

Congrats Hodges we knew you could do it.

Frank
CPT

cut and paste off his site. i see what you mean with the daily driver and the 1st gear ratio tho. but if that one is running 9's i suppose you should be ok with one. its 1400 plus any hard parts. just letting you know its an option.

That is pretty impressive, I like the MPH that car pulled plan on doing someting similiar. But I really do feel like I'll sleep better at night with the 4L80E in my car, plus I already have most of the stuff, lol.

OK ill will do a try to answer some of you Qs.
Dip stick, yes the lokar will work, we use a "short" one, ill think it was around 25", widh a little cutting and bending on the top fasterner it will fit perfect to the bolt hole between inj 6 and 8.
Cutting, yepp just a little cutting on the driver side http://home.koping.net/u3243a/tillfalliga/DSC02272.JPG
Tranny coler lines, yepp, you could reuse them (little bending) but it isnt gonna be much room to "torque" them, i changed them after oure 2nd converter change....
Tuning of the TCI box? no idea, we use the stock PCM ;)
shifter, yes you can use the stock shifter, I did build an offset mount under the tranny but its possible that you can use the stock one and adjust the shifter cable.


how did you get the stock pcm to control the tranny ??? i thought the stock pcm would not work ????

The big problem is that the "electric shift pattern" isnt the same on 4l60e and 4l80e, I inverted some signals (dont remember wich now). Its also little tricky to get the lockup to work perfect.
The only thing that i couldnt fix perfect was the line pressure so i bought a vac mod for that.
Schematics? no i havent done it yet, Can make one when the winter is over and the car is back at home. (some of the resistors was changed after i designed it so i cant just looke at my install notes)

I like to have our customers keep the 2/10 they're throwing away with the 4L80E. An '80E won't take you anywhere one of our '60E's can't.

Frank
CPT

OK
So you belive that our 3600 lbs car will run 9.2 widh one of youre 4l60e?
Sorry to say but i dont belive that, and absolutly not race after race etc.
ake eliasson

I like to have our customers keep the 2/10 they're throwing away with the 4L80E. An '80E won't take you anywhere one of our '60E's can't.

I may have you build a 4L60E for me sometime but I just feel more comfortable about having a 4l80E in a 9 second street car beating on it several times a day.:)
In my opinion the 2/10ths thing is all realtive to how the car is setup. From GM the 4L80E is about 90lbs heavier than the 4L60E. We need to take into account the stock 4L80E converter weighs about 75lbs from what I have seen. I have a stocker LS1 TQ converter in the shop that weighs no were near that. When I do the swap I will get a complete comparison.

I like to have our customers keep the 2/10 they're throwing away with the 4L80E. An '80E won't take you anywhere one of our '60E's can't.

Frank
CPT

What is your warranty for a 4L60E performance build installed on a 9 second blower car?

What is your warranty for a 4L60E performance build installed on a 9 second blower car?

Same warranty as we offer on all Race and Pro Race build...6 months on parts, and a year on labor. There's also a 2 year "freshen up" period following that first year. For those 2 years, we'll go back through it for $250 + parts.

Frank
CPT

Same warranty as we offer on all Race and Pro Race build...6 months on parts, and a year on labor. There's also a 2 year "freshen up" period following that first year. For those 2 years, we'll go back through it for $250 + parts.

Frank
CPT


That's really a pretty good deal, especially for the local racers that wouldn't have to pay shipping.

...An '80E won't take you anywhere one of our '60E's can't.

Frank
CPT

Guess all the slow 4L80E guys should pull those 4L80E's out and go back to a CPT 4L60E :rolleyes: I cant firgure out why everyone over at LS1 tech are running such good times with these 4L80E's. :shrug:

On topic:

Has anyone tried using the stock M6 crossmember to support a 4L80E? I could fab up one like Orion did, but it would save some time if I knew the M6 one would work.

-Dustin-

I used the BMR crossmember to put the 80e in my 00 fbody. The 80e along with the rossler tbrake is the ticket...fully automatic shifts with a tbrake :) A 60e will not hold up to my 3920# raceweight...308 gears...28" slicks and up to 900rwhp/tq

anybody have schematics or a writeup on how to make the stock computer work with the 80E?

If so id just sell teh TCI unit and use my money elsewhere

anybody have schematics or a writeup on how to make the stock computer work with the 80E?

If so id just sell teh TCI unit and use my money elsewhere

I like the full manual option. It's nice to be able to take it to whatever RPM you wish each time down the track.

-Dustin-

Guess all the slow 4L80E guys should pull those 4L80E's out and go back to a CPT 4L60E :rolleyes:-
Have you stopped to realize something. The originater of this post (Orionslp), doesn't even own this car anymore. Why? Simple, because the 4L80e slowed in down too much. It's just an absurd swap. I cant firgure out why everyone over at LS1 tech are running such good times with these 4L80E's. :shrug:-
If they still had a '60E in them, they'd be running even quicker.

Frank
CPT

I like the full manual option. It's nice to be able to take it to whatever RPM you wish each time down the track.

-Dustin-
yeah someday when i make it a "track-only" car

Have you stopped to realize something. The originater of this post (Orionslp), doesn't even own this car anymore. Why? Simple, because the 4L80e slowed in down too much. It's just an absurd swap.

He sold his car because of the transmission? That's like selling the car if you have a slipping trans. Sad story there, eh, I guess I have more determination than some. A TH400 with overdrive isnt as horrible as you try to make it. Tons of LS1 guys cant get 60E's to hold, they go to a T56 or TH400 and then realize they can have the power holding of a TH400 with overdrive and many eventually switch to 4L80E's. When it becomes more popular and/or you start building them, I'm sure you'll sing a different tune.

If they still had a '60E in them, they'd be running even quicker and would rebuild 4L60E's on weekdays.

Fixed ;)

Frank
CPT

With all do respect Frank you need to relax your attitude about some things. The 4L80E isnt the big bad monster you make it out to be. You're going to see more and more LTX/LSX cars running these trans. If you have a better idea on how to harness 800-1100hp with a 4 speed auto, let me know.

Bobby, people drive manuals everyday :thumb:

-Dustin-

With all do respect Frank you need to relax your attitude about some things. The 4L80E isnt the big bad monster you make it out to be. You're going to see more and more LTX/LSX cars running these trans. If you have a better idea on how to harness 800-1100hp with a 4 speed auto, let me know.

Bobby, people drive manuals everyday :thumb:

-Dustin-

I've been building 4L80E's since 1991, when they came out. They have their place...In the TRUCK that pulls the car trailer that the race car is on/in. The 4L80E has had a terrible problem with line pressure instability, and hard parts breakage, whick became more of a problem in the later units, when they went to "central lube". Do whatever you want to, but just remember, you were warned. I was trying to do you a favor. If you've got yourself set on a boat anchor, by all means, don't let reason and common sense stand in your way.


Frank
CPT

Have you stopped to realize something. The originater of this post (Orionslp), doesn't even own this car anymore. Why? Simple, because the 4L80e slowed in down too much. It's just an absurd swap.
If they still had a '60E in them, they'd be running even quicker.

Frank
CPT

ive had my 80 in for a few years now with zero failures . only lost .2 and it was easily made up with a gear change in the rear. Ive had several 4l60s and 700r4s and none of them stand up to this transmission in my mind. I will never go back to a 4l60 unless i put a stock motor back in the truck.

I've been building 4L80E's since 1991, when they came out. They have their place...In the TRUCK that pulls the car trailer that the race car is on/in. The 4L80E has had a terrible problem with line pressure instability, and hard parts breakage, whick became more of a problem in the later units, when they went to "central lube". Do whatever you want to, but just remember, you were warned. I was trying to do you a favor. If you've got yourself set on a boat anchor, by all means, don't let reason and common sense stand in your way.


Frank
CPT

here is the real boat anchor http://slammed98gmc.com/700r4

that is a $2500 art car trans. Ive got $950 into my 4l80 with manual valve body + my converter.

Bobby, people drive manuals everyday :thumb:

-Dustin-
Im lazy and sometimes just like to Cruuuuuiiiisseeee!

Im lazy and sometimes just like to Cruuuuuiiiisseeee!

mine does require a little work to shift,but is shifts never nice and smooth like stock when driving around normal. I would rather have a reverse pattern ,but I have relearned to shift this one.