I've been going thru them as often as brake pads. Its basically a cheap design, pressed together disposable cheapie parts. Yes, I know, they didn't design it to race on. Is there anything more sturdy that I can get?

I'm thinking Corvette ZR1 or Grandsport hubs. Anyone know if they'd fit?

thanks,

BobC

[This message has been edited by BobC (edited August 18, 2002).]

 

Dunno about the vette ones, but have you checked your local Pep Boys for their "lifetime warranty" hubs? They seem to work just fine, and the deal is pretty good...

Dave

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1997 LPE 383/n2o Camaro Z28 Convertible
12.39@112.2, 1.76 60' (na) 11.27@124.6, 1.76 60' (n2o)
LT1 Diagnostics, New to Nitrous? Northern California Racing Club

 

The problem with that (if they do carry them) is that the hubs are integral with the Hall sensor for the ABS. I'm not sure if you're still running the ABS or not, Bob.

If you are and find anything better, let me know

Dan

[EDIT]On edit: What is Pep Boys' replacement policy? Could I swap hubs every six months as a precaution?[/EDIT]

[This message has been edited by lincmarkv (edited August 19, 2002).]

 

Well actually, I haven't had to take one back yet, so I don't know for sure. When I bought it, I asked the guy how they define "a hub needing replacement" and he said they didn't, just to bring it in and get a new one. But I haven't tested that theory yet...

Dave

 

Hi Bob. What is failing on the hubs? Are the bearings getting sloppy? I looked into corvette hubs but they proved to be too expensive. We shuold see if Ben P. In the #03 corvette has an extra unit to play with. Concerning your spindles, would you like me to set them up for using the C5 pad? I know you have some concerns with the f-body pad selection.

 

What kind of brakes are you running?

Is it possible that the rotors are transfering so much heat into the hubs that they are failing prematurely?


------------------
Jason
93 TA, M6

 

We pulled the latest failed hub apart and the greease hadn't melted. they didn't even use roller bearings. I'm thinking it died from hitting the rumble strips twice at Road America because it was wobbly (not much) up and down, not side to side like the drivers side one was.

I'm running stock LT1 brakes currently, and will upgrade to LS1 calipers with C5 rotors when I move into a modified class next year. I have huge ducts with NASCAR spindle ducts attached to the backs of the hubs for cooling. The front brakes are getting very hot, but thus far I haveen't had major trouble, just trashing rotors and pads left and right.

BobC

 

Bob,

Do your rotors and pads look anything like this? I just did a weekend Track Time school at Mich. Speedway and after a few sessions of going from 130-50 MPH from the banking to the infield, my pedal went to the floor. That is using ATE Blue fluid. After taking a cool down lap, my pedal started coming back. After I got home, I saw rotors and pads like I've never seen before. I'll finally be putting on the C5 brakes next month after I get a set of 17" street tires. I'd like to get a good look at your brake cooling arrangement. I'm running ducting, but I'm sure it can be improved.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miketa...brakepads1.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miketaylor68/rotor3.jpg



------------------
Mike Taylor
'94 Formula
Holley Cold Air, Borla downpipe, Walker UltraFlo catback, BMR STB, BMR PHR, Ground Control coilovers, Bilsteins, G2 Torque Arm, Torsen T2R, 16x9.5 Rikens, 255/50/16 Street tires, 17x9 SLP Wheels, Kumho 275/40/17 V700, 17x11 AFS Wheels, No tires for these yet

 

No, mine are a bit worse. My pads are bent to a 3/4" deep "C" shape (bent due to heat and pressure from piston) and then worn down with 20 or 30 1/16 or 3/32 deep grooves in them that match the 20 or 30 1/16 to 3/32 deep grooves going around the rotors. An SCCA buddy estimated my rotor temps at 1700-1800 based on the way the metal on the rotors was grooved.

No pedal loss, here, and I DID finish the race at Road America in front of the A/S Mustang that chased me the entire race. I just can't bring myself to let them beat me, if I can help it, even though they are in a much faster class due to the mods they are allowed. BTW, I had one time in turn 5 the pedal felt funny, so I took it a bit easy going into 8, which is the next heavy braking spot. Other than that, they help up fine, stopping power wise.

but to be honest, neither yours or mine look good...

You better switch to 600 degree fluid and get better cooling, I think. Did you change the fluid just prior to the event? I always do. Will you be at Gingerman?

BobC

[This message has been edited by BobC (edited August 19, 2002).]

 

Yes, I'll be there. Are you racing or just crewing? I can't remember.

The pads I was using were the basic PF street pads. I brought them and the rotors back to AutoZone today to replace the ones I bought in a hurry on Saturday night between the 2 days of the Track Time school. Gotta love that AutoZone lifetime warranty.

Yes, I changed to the ATE fluid on Thursday before the event. I'd love to know how hot my brakes got, and if my ducting helped at all.

My rotors were grooved, but it looked almost like the metal had flaked off in certain sections. The pads were crumbling away at the edges. It was very eye opening and a little disconcerting. I wasn't trying to brake at the limit in every corner, and especially not coming from the banking to the infield.

 

Better get some race pads (my PF 93's were the best I've had) and 600 degree fluid if you're going to push it hard like that.

I'll be testing Fri afternoon, racing Sat, corner working Sun, working in Tech Mon am, and T & S in the afternoon, I'm guessing.

Come have a look at my ducting. I'll be switching tires on Sat and probably again after racing or on Sun. I'll be camping.

BobC

 

Bob,

I am using the original wheel bearings that came on my car new - fyi

Once you go to the c5 rotors taht will help keep the bearings cooler. Rumble strips at RA don't hurt the bearings, its those new hoosiers that do wonders.

Mike 01