what springs do i have to go with (best bang for buck)
what springs do i have to go with (best bang for buck)
i wanna lower my car and put a sway bar in it. i know what sway bar i'm gonna go with, but i need to lower my car for a better handling and turning.....what would you recommend?? thanks
Road racing purists tend to like the linear rate springs around 500#'s. I like the progressive rate springs for a daily driver. Unfortunately with a question like this you'd be more likely to get responses of people recommending the springs that they have on their car instead of unbiased information.
My opininion is that linear rate springs are better for all out handling but progressive rate springs are easier on the spleen than super stiff linear rate springs when you drive it daily.
If you like the thought of a softer initial spring rate that gets stiffer as it compresses, DMS springs are a very good choice.
www.dynamicmotorsports.com
Look for group purchases. Usually around $159 or so.
My opininion is that linear rate springs are better for all out handling but progressive rate springs are easier on the spleen than super stiff linear rate springs when you drive it daily.
If you like the thought of a softer initial spring rate that gets stiffer as it compresses, DMS springs are a very good choice.
www.dynamicmotorsports.com
Look for group purchases. Usually around $159 or so.
Originally posted by 2002Z28SSConv
Road racing purists tend to like the linear rate springs around 500#'s. I like the progressive rate springs for a daily driver. Unfortunately with a question like this you'd be more likely to get responses of people recommending the springs that they have on their car instead of unbiased information.
My opininion is that linear rate springs are better for all out handling but progressive rate springs are easier on the spleen than super stiff linear rate springs when you drive it daily.
Road racing purists tend to like the linear rate springs around 500#'s. I like the progressive rate springs for a daily driver. Unfortunately with a question like this you'd be more likely to get responses of people recommending the springs that they have on their car instead of unbiased information.
My opininion is that linear rate springs are better for all out handling but progressive rate springs are easier on the spleen than super stiff linear rate springs when you drive it daily.
Let's say you have a progressive spring in name, and the coils touch each other. Those coils are now not active, and not in play (which means the progressiveness is gone). If you look at pictures of progressive springs, you'll see the soft coils are all very close, without being on the car at all. Add the weight of the car, they'll compress and collapse the "soft" coils. Now, let's say you have a progressive spring with a big range and pretty soft on the soft end. You'll push right through the soft end all the time and really only use the heavier end. That makes a progressive spring less so.
BTW, if you have a linear rate, say 400 spring it take 400 lbs to compress it 1". It takes 800 to get it to compress 2", and 1200 for 3" and so on. Progressives gain rate at an even more exponential rate than do linears. Which brings shocks into play. Shocks are really spring dampers. As such they are meant to handle a relatively known rate. Progressive springs make that range larger than linears, and it gets worse with more and more compression of the spring. So, in other words progressives are harder to damp than linears. It's much easier to be over or underdamped because of the changing rates.
And linears don't ride hard, that's more due to rates and the shocks on the car than springs (assuming a sane rate of either).
Sam,
What would you recommend for springs for primarily street driving with the occasional road racing? I currently have the 1LE springs ('97 WS6 Trans Am) and was thinking of replacing them in the spring with something else to go with a set of your revalved Bilstein HD shocks for front and rear.
Thanks.
What would you recommend for springs for primarily street driving with the occasional road racing? I currently have the 1LE springs ('97 WS6 Trans Am) and was thinking of replacing them in the spring with something else to go with a set of your revalved Bilstein HD shocks for front and rear.
Thanks.
And linears don't ride hard, that's more due to rates and the shocks on the car than springs (assuming a sane rate of either).
Which is why my car rides better (with 500# springs) than it did stock. It's the right COMBINATION of parts that makes the difference.
Thanks Sam for the good advice you gave me about my car.
Well, first off I think the stock springs get a really bum rap because of the poor stock shocks.
Options as I seem 'em. Stock springs, 1LE spring, maybe an Eibach Pro-kit, Suspension Techniques, or coil-overs.
Any of those work really well, and each has it's catch. Honestly, I can't say which would be most suitable to you right now. I can after a conversation with you. Then I'll be able to get an idea about what's really important and what's not so much.
I know it sounds like a blow-off, but it's really not. It's just the need for more information in order to make a proper recommendation.
Options as I seem 'em. Stock springs, 1LE spring, maybe an Eibach Pro-kit, Suspension Techniques, or coil-overs.
Any of those work really well, and each has it's catch. Honestly, I can't say which would be most suitable to you right now. I can after a conversation with you. Then I'll be able to get an idea about what's really important and what's not so much.
I know it sounds like a blow-off, but it's really not. It's just the need for more information in order to make a proper recommendation.
Originally posted by 01 FS Z28
Well, first off I think the stock springs get a really bum rap because of the poor stock shocks.
Options as I seem 'em. Stock springs, 1LE spring, maybe an Eibach Pro-kit, Suspension Techniques, or coil-overs.
Any of those work really well, and each has it's catch. Honestly, I can't say which would be most suitable to you right now. I can after a conversation with you. Then I'll be able to get an idea about what's really important and what's not so much.
I know it sounds like a blow-off, but it's really not. It's just the need for more information in order to make a proper recommendation.
Well, first off I think the stock springs get a really bum rap because of the poor stock shocks.
Options as I seem 'em. Stock springs, 1LE spring, maybe an Eibach Pro-kit, Suspension Techniques, or coil-overs.
Any of those work really well, and each has it's catch. Honestly, I can't say which would be most suitable to you right now. I can after a conversation with you. Then I'll be able to get an idea about what's really important and what's not so much.
I know it sounds like a blow-off, but it's really not. It's just the need for more information in order to make a proper recommendation.
Originally posted by 01 FS Z28
Well, that's not actually the case. Many of the "progressive" springs are stiff. And in their working range can be stiffer than a linear rate spring is.
Let's say you have a progressive spring in name, and the coils touch each other. Those coils are now not active, and not in play (which means the progressiveness is gone). If you look at pictures of progressive springs, you'll see the soft coils are all very close, without being on the car at all. Add the weight of the car, they'll compress and collapse the "soft" coils. Now, let's say you have a progressive spring with a big range and pretty soft on the soft end. You'll push right through the soft end all the time and really only use the heavier end. That makes a progressive spring less so.
BTW, if you have a linear rate, say 400 spring it take 400 lbs to compress it 1". It takes 800 to get it to compress 2", and 1200 for 3" and so on. Progressives gain rate at an even more exponential rate than do linears. Which brings shocks into play. Shocks are really spring dampers. As such they are meant to handle a relatively known rate. Progressive springs make that range larger than linears, and it gets worse with more and more compression of the spring. So, in other words progressives are harder to damp than linears. It's much easier to be over or underdamped because of the changing rates.
And linears don't ride hard, that's more due to rates and the shocks on the car than springs (assuming a sane rate of either).
Well, that's not actually the case. Many of the "progressive" springs are stiff. And in their working range can be stiffer than a linear rate spring is.
Let's say you have a progressive spring in name, and the coils touch each other. Those coils are now not active, and not in play (which means the progressiveness is gone). If you look at pictures of progressive springs, you'll see the soft coils are all very close, without being on the car at all. Add the weight of the car, they'll compress and collapse the "soft" coils. Now, let's say you have a progressive spring with a big range and pretty soft on the soft end. You'll push right through the soft end all the time and really only use the heavier end. That makes a progressive spring less so.
BTW, if you have a linear rate, say 400 spring it take 400 lbs to compress it 1". It takes 800 to get it to compress 2", and 1200 for 3" and so on. Progressives gain rate at an even more exponential rate than do linears. Which brings shocks into play. Shocks are really spring dampers. As such they are meant to handle a relatively known rate. Progressive springs make that range larger than linears, and it gets worse with more and more compression of the spring. So, in other words progressives are harder to damp than linears. It's much easier to be over or underdamped because of the changing rates.
And linears don't ride hard, that's more due to rates and the shocks on the car than springs (assuming a sane rate of either).
But if the coils are touching... the springs are too soft crap in my humble opinion. From what I've seen, most readily available linear rate springs have a higher rating than the common progressives. That's what I was basing my above conclusions on.
Anyway, I wouldn't make a drastic spring change without new shocks. You have to remove the front shocks to change the springs. And you have to remove the springs to change the shocks. It all comes out as a single unit. Besides, you're not going to be happy with mismatched springs and shocks. So do them both at the same time and save yourself a huge headache. If you only have a couple hundred to blow, change the front sway bar and get a strut tower brace or something like that. Maybe subframe connectors. But budget at least $500 for your springs and shocks.
FWIW I'm running stock Z28 (not 1LE) springs on the lower perch of Konis (which lowers it some) in the front, and nearly stock (actually a little SOFTER) springs in the rear. Stock springs without the isolator will yield a similiar ride height.
With the right swaybars (35/21), shocks (Koni SA / Bilstein HD), and alignment it's AMAZING how much better it is than stock.
Give Sam a call
With the right swaybars (35/21), shocks (Koni SA / Bilstein HD), and alignment it's AMAZING how much better it is than stock.
Give Sam a call
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