Speakers for a 2001 Z

Hello all. I'm looking to replace the factory speakers in my 2001 Z28. I have the Monsoon sound package (not the CD changer in the trunk). I looked on Crutchfield.com but they had way to many types of speakers for me to make sense of (if you couldn't tell, I haven't done this before! :D )

I'm looking for something nice. I'm really just looking for new speakers (no amp, etc. I think someone told me that that unit is 600 watts? is that true?) Anyway, I'm just wondering what you folks would recommend for a replacement for all six speakers. Should I get component speakers? What the hell is a component speaker!? :confused:

Just looking for a good setup. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

Not really a good idea to just replace the speakers in the Monsoon system without adding an aftermarket amp to power them. The stock Monsoon speakers have various impedences that just replacing them with a 4 ohm speaker will actually make it sound worse.

Read all about it here:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48092

Agreed. Sorry to tell you this, but it's best to dicth everything with the monsoon name on it. Speakers, amp, head unit and all the wiring. I recommend saving up enough money to do this because your not gonna get the improvement your looking for by just replacing the speakers.

A component system is actually a set of speakers. The set comes with 2 mids, 2 tweets and 2 crossovers. 1 mid and 1 tweet hook up to each crossover and you run the power to the crossover. Basically, that's it. The crossover prevents high frequencies from going to the mid and low frequencies from going to the tweet. You can get a decent set for as little as $100. (almost the same price as a set of co-axils!!)

Thanks for the responses! Well, I gotta do what I gotta do! ;) So basically I'm going to be looking for a new head unit, amp, and six speakers. Any rough estimates on what I should be looking to pay (installation not included) for the whole sha-bang, any good brands for all the stuff?. Something mid-range. I'm not going to enter any competitions, but something that I can hear (and feel!).

Now just one more (I warned you I have no idea). The front doors and rear seat side panels are 6-3/4" and the back panel ones are 4". I took a look around crutchfield.

They have the "regular" 6-3/4" and component. Any particular recommendations on which to go with? The regular ones seem to be capable of all ranges, but I imagine the quality isn't as good as with the component? The 4" seem to all be woofers.

Basically my question is what is the best way to set it up (i.e. midrange in doors, woofer in the rear seat, and component in the back, etc.)

Well, thanks again for the responses. I appreciate all the help!

Originally posted by BlackZin01
Thanks for the responses! Well, I gotta do what I gotta do! ;) So basically I'm going to be looking for a new head unit, amp, and six speakers. Any rough estimates on what I should be looking to pay (installation not included) for the whole sha-bang, any good brands for all the stuff?. Something mid-range. I'm not going to enter any competitions, but something that I can hear (and feel!).


You don't need to run 6 speakers. Spend your money on good front speakers and a single sub, I don't run rear fill as my system is going to be set up for competition. You will only feel bass with a sub. I would say $1000 is a workable budget but $2000 would have better results. I have about $1500 in my 92, and my 01 will have around $3500 all said and done.

Originally posted by BlackZin01
Now just one more (I warned you I have no idea). The front doors and rear seat side panels are 6-3/4" and the back panel ones are 4". I took a look around crutchfield.

They have the "regular" 6-3/4" and component. Any particular recommendations on which to go with? The regular ones seem to be capable of all ranges, but I imagine the quality isn't as good as with the component? The 4" seem to all be woofers.


Only run 6 1/2" or 6 3/4" fronts, or if you must run some rears do some 5" in the hatch. You hit the nail on the head with components, much better but more difficult to install.

Originally posted by BlackZin01
Basically my question is what is the best way to set it up (i.e. midrange in doors, woofer in the rear seat, and component in the back, etc.)

Well, thanks again for the responses. I appreciate all the help!

I would run front components, a single sub and a four channel amp to power it all if I was trying to save money. Give an idea of the budget and I'll help you out. PM me and I'll let you know the best places to buy equipment from.

I agree with pretty much everything Red said. If you are on a budget..... you could probably get everything done for about $1k (head unit, components, single 10" & 4-channel amp) If you could spare 1500 or 2000, then we could really work something out! :D For a head unit....... do you use MP3 encoded CDs? If so, I recommend the Alpine 7894. If not, the Alpine 7892.

Wow. Thanks! I'd like to do everything for about $1500. I get the impression that that would give me a good setup. So there we go.

If I replace the head unit will I lose the steering wheel controls and the speed controlled volume? I'd like to keep those.

You don't have to replace the stock HU and/or changer to have great sound. You can use the PAC OEM-1 and integrate aftermarket components with the stock HU.

Check out my system at the link in my sig. I think I only paid around $1000 for my set-up using internet sites such as:

www.thezeb.com
www.cbrstereo.com

Originally posted by BlackZin01
Wow. Thanks! I'd like to do everything for about $1500. I get the impression that that would give me a good setup. So there we go.

If I replace the head unit will I lose the steering wheel controls and the speed controlled volume? I'd like to keep those.

$1500 a good setup budget. You can keep your steering wheel controls, but not the speed volume(not really a big deal to me). You will achieve better sound with an aftermarket HU. Here's a few questions for you.

Are you doing the install or do we need to factor that into the budget?
Are you wanting rear speakers or just fronts?
Do you mind multiple amps?
How much bass do you want?

Are you doing the install or do we need to factor that into the budget?
Are you wanting rear speakers or just fronts?
Do you mind multiple amps?
How much bass do you want?


Well, I've never done a car stereo install. I did wire up my home theater and do a bit of engine work, so I think I'll give it a shot myself. Unless, of course, it's really THAT hard.

I was originally thinking of getting 6 new ones, but a few folks suggested just four. So I guess it's 4 or 6 new speakers. Wouldn't it be a bit of a shame not to use all of em? Dunno...

I'm not sure of the advantages/disadvantages of multiple amps. Based on what I know at the moment, I don't mind either way.

Hmmm... how much bass... Well, a bit more than I have now, but I'm not going to be entering competitions or anything. My whole purpose in replacing the sound system is to be able to take the T-tops off and crank up a nice stereo as I haul a$$ down some nice New England mountain roads. :D

Oh, just one more thing. I'd also like to try to have to do as little body/inetrior mods as possible. (I know, I know, I'm being a pain...)

Thanks again!

Originally posted by BlackZin01
Oh, just one more thing. I'd also like to try to have to do as little body/inetrior mods as possible. (I know, I know, I'm being a pain...)

Thanks again!

Not a problem, only real thing that will need to be done is a tweeter mount. I'm sure if you are mechanically inclined and look at enough info and ask enough questions you'll be able to do it yourself. Sounds like a single 12" will get you where your going, check my webshots for a few good pics. I'm guessing you like to have that surround effect that rear speakers provide. I only run front speakers and I have alot of money in my systems. But it's doable.

Start with a head unit, I like Alpine and Pioneer. I feel they have the best quality, features and sound with the edge going to Alpine. With your budget I'd stay under $300 on the head unit.

Well, thanks for all the advice. I'm off to do some research and pricing. Hopefully I'll have some pics in a couple of weeks! Thanks again!

Check out Alpine and Pioneer for HU. Focal for speakers. MTX, RF, Alpine, and many more for amps. Alpine and JL for subs. These are what I normally recomend to folks. Make sure you leave around $300 just for wiring and stuff when you do your budgeting. Post up with what you find and we'll critique it for ya.

I got some time, I'll give you some recommendations!:D

Head unit: Alpine 7892 or if you use MP3 incoded CD's, the Alpine 7894 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019662595&category=18798)
Components: Focal 165K (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019720047&category=32819)
Rear fill: I have tried it both ways and I still prefer a little rear fill. The big thing to remember is the keep those high frequencies from behind your ears. You want that soundstage front and center. Don't use co or tri-axils in the rear. Just a simple mid-range or mid-bass. I recommend the Kicker RMB6's. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019630395&category=18799)
I don't recommend getting a single 5 channel amp to power the whole system because most of them don't output more then about 50WRMS@4ohms. I recommend running atleast 75 to your components.
Amp: Kicker KX600.4 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019184990&category=4950) or if you can spare the extra couple bucks, step up to the Kicker KX800.4 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019185518&category=4950). For the sub amp, I recommend the Kicker KX400.1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3019185274&category=18797) or, again, if you can afford the extra couple of bucks step up to the Kicker KX600.1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3018801802&category=18797). This will even give you a little room to upgrade in the future if need be. :)
Since your not looking for a massive amount of bass, a single 10" or 12" will probably be plenty.
Box: Passenger or driver's side stealth box (http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm).
Sub: 10" or 12" Alpine Type R. There are A TON on Ebay.
Wire: www.knukonceptz.com , www.darvex.com orDelcity (https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=Home).

There. That should get you on your way! If you don't like any particular piece of gear I recommended, tell me and I will try to give you a couple of more recommendations. :)

Head unit: Alpine 7892 or if you use MP3 incoded CD's, the Alpine 7894
This looks nice. Just one question. I looked it up on crutchfield (I like their specs page) and it says it doesn't have "Anti-shock memory". I'm just looking for this thing not to skip (the roads in Massachusetts can get really crapy!). I know I have to remove the rear bracket for this new HU to fit. Can I unbolt it, or do i need to cut? And will my steering wheel controls still work with this one?
Components: Focal 165K
I'm assuming these will go in the front doors. Is that right? Will both fit under the stock speaker cover, or will I have to mount the tweeter in the A-pillar? Won't I need midrange? The description for these is a mid-bass and tweeter.
Rear fill: I have tried it both ways and I still prefer a little rear fill. The big thing to remember is the keep those high frequencies from behind your ears. You want that soundstage front and center. Don't use co or tri-axils in the rear. Just a simple mid-range or mid-bass. I recommend the Kicker RMB6's. [/QUOTE}
Ok, I know this is gonna be a really stupid one, so I'm ready for it
:D but by rear fill, do you mean the the ones by the rear passenger seats, or the ones way back in the hatch? A lot of folks have told me to get 4 speakers and screw the 2 extra. Just wondering which 2 to get rid of? And do most people just take them out, or leave them in and disconnect them?
[QUOTE]Since your not looking for a massive amount of bass, a single 10" or 12" will probably be plenty.
I think I'm just going to get one stealth box and mount it on the driver's side cause I'd like to keep my jack? Any reason not to do that?

Other than that, it all makes sense. Just one last thing. Anyone know where I can find/buy/steal some sort of wiring diagram or something? I really want to do this myself (it'll sound better when I'm done!). Well, thanks again. Everyone's been really cool about helping out. :bow: I'll buy you guys a drink if you're ever in Boston! Thanks.

Scratch one question! I found master sheets on crutchfield.com for my car! They're supposed to have all the wiring diagrams and everything. I figured for 5 bucks, they can't be that bad.

Have you read this (http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=48092&referrerid=7340<br%20/>) thread? Should answer a couple of questions. (note very first FAQ!:) ) Also, the12volt (http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.asp) has wiring diagrams galore. However they only go up to 2000. But, it's almost certain they are the same for 2001. I'm not sure which bracket you are talking about cutting?:confused: I didn't have to cut anything to install my aftermarket h/u. The Focal's will go upfront. The mids will fit directly in the doors. The tweets will need to be mounted some where. Many people DO mount them in the A-piller. The two speakers work as one. They are a team. :D They make up the mid-range and highs. Many many people choose to run just a driver's side stealth. There is not one thing wrong with that! I have been VERY surprised at the output capable of one stealth. Don't pay anybody to do your install. It's VERY easy and we all would be happy to help you any time you need it. :)

Ok, after talking to a bunch od people and reading everything I could so far, here's what I'm thinking of getting.

HU: Panasonic MXE CQ-HX1083 It's clean looking and has a remote that I can use the PAC SWI-X Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface with. It's got 3 pre-amp outputs and 1 sub preamp out

AMP: Kenwood eXcelon KAC-X650D 60 watts RMS x 4 + 200W x 1 at 4 ohms. I know a few folks didn't really think these were the best, but I'd like to keep it down to 1 amp. If you all think that it's not that great, lemme know.

Front: Rockford Fosgate FNX2614 (Need to figure out if I can coaxially mount the tweeters, these may go)

Rear: Kicker Resolution 02RMB6 6-3/4" Midbass Speakers

Sub: Alpine Type-R SWR-1041D 10" Dual 4-ohm Component Subwoofer. I was told the dual voice coils are better.

Sub box: 10" driver side stealth box.

Well, that's it. Not sure about the rockfords. A friend of mine is REALLY pushing them, but they're $250 on crutchfield, and I've seen some good deals on some other stuff.

Me and a few friends are gonna do the install with when I eventually order all this stuff. If you think any of it sucks, please just say so. I'd hate to find out after I install it. Thanks!

HU: Nope, Panasonics aren't that great of quality. Look seriously at Alpine, Pioneer or Kenwood

Amp: Nope, much better out there for less money. Are you really wanting a 5-channel or would you mind running two?

Front: Don't like the RF speakers, but their amps are great. Go with Focal, you will not regret it.

Rear: Okay, these are decent for Midbass/midrange, but you'll need to match the fronts.

Sub: :D

Enclosure: Go fiberglass, you'll get better sound and can run a 12".

PM me if you need a place to buy from, I know a good few. Crutchfield is literally retail and you can get stuff for $20-50 over wholesale very easily.

How much are you getting that Panasonic for? The Alpine's that I recommended are VERY hard (if not impossible) to beat for the money. The 7892 has 4-channel time correction..... for under $300?!?!?!?! Outstanding value.

Don't have a lot of experience with Kenwood amps. So I can't really say.......How much are you getting it for? Also check out the Kicker 5-channel amps. They output more then most other 5-channel amps in the same price range.

I personally have never used the Rockford components, but I haven't heard the best of reviews about them. Honestly. And you can't go wrong with Focal. I KNOW the K's will blow the Rockford's away, but if they are too expensive..... try the polyglass line.

You can run a 12" in the stealth if you ditch the spare tire and jack to use the passenger side box...... or use your t-top storage area!:)

Been looking at Alpine, Kenwood, and Pioneer for head units. Just noticed that 99% of them are 1 DIN. After looking at a few pictures, I'm not sure I'm too crazy about the fit and look of some of them.

Then I saw BandDirector Blk98ZM6's post and looked at his web page. That system seems to be exactly what I'm looking for. Plus, I get to keep the SCV and steering wheel controls. :D

I looked at www.tune-town.com for the PAC OEM-1 adapter that will give me 2 pair of RCA outs. How will that work with the sub, though. Don't you need a separate sub out to connect to the AMP that will be powering the sub? These 2 amps have speaker level inputs so can I just disconnect the two 4" speakers and run the wires to each amp? If I can just get that worked out, I think I'm going to go with:

Alpine MRD-M300 and Alpine MRV-F340 for amps.
Alpine Type-R SWR-1041D for the sub (with a fiberglass stealth box from JL audio)
Focal components up front, and the Kicker Resolution 02RMB6 in the rear.

Will this sound really crappy without the head unit? If not, I think this will do. So then, I just need a little help on how in the hell to wire the sub amp.

Thanks.

I am VERY happy with the sound of my stock HU and changer and using a PAC OEM-1 to get dual RCA outs as well as an amp turn on lead. The stock GM HU's are actually pretty "clean" and don't distort the signal until around 26 clicks of the volume knob. This has been verified by using an O-scope to check when distortion kicks in. I actually set all the levels on the OEM-1 and my amps at 16 clicks of the volume knob, so I am far from getting a clipped signal from the HU.

I am running a 4 channel amp and a 2 channel amp (bridged for the sub) in my system. I have Y-adapters for the front RCA outs of the OEM-1 and I'm running the full range speakers off of the front RCA outs using the 4 channel amp and then the rear outs are sending their signal to the sub amp. So, just get a set of Y-adapters and your idea will work great!

Originally posted by BandDirector Blk98ZM6
I have Y-adapters for the front RCA outs of the OEM-1 and I'm running the full range speakers off of the front RCA outs using the 4 channel amp and then the rear outs are sending their signal to the sub amp. So, just get a set of Y-adapters and your idea will work great!
Why not use the Y-adapter on the rear RCAs, then run front and rear pair to the 4-channel amp and the other rear to the sub amp?

I am running a 4 channel amp and a 2 channel amp (bridged for the sub) in my system. I have Y-adapters for the front RCA outs of the OEM-1 and I'm running the full range speakers off of the front RCA outs using the 4 channel amp and then the rear outs are sending their signal to the sub amp. So, just get a set of Y-adapters and your idea will work great!
Cool. So is it better to run RCA outs to the AMP than to rip out the wires in the existing speakers and plug them into the speaker-level input of the AMPs?

The 55x4 AMP I was looking at (Alpine MRV-F340) has 4 speaker level inputs and the 150x1 AMP (Alpine MRD-M300) has 2 speaker level inputs. That way I could unplug the wires from the 2 front and 2 rear speakers and plug them into the 55x4, and plug the wire from the 2 hatch speakers into the 150x1. Would the soudn quality be worse that way?

Run RCA's you're just asking for trouble with what you have planned. An LOC will provide better SQ as it will bypass the Monsoon amp which is the weakest link in the system.

Originally posted by firebirdude
Why not use the Y-adapter on the rear RCAs, then run front and rear pair to the 4-channel amp and the other rear to the sub amp?

That could work too. I opted to use the front outs for all full range/mid-bass speakers and the rear-outs for the sub only because it could let me control the sub volume with the fader if I so desired. If I start fading to the front, the sub volume will decrease.


BlackZin01, yes it is better to use the RCA outs from the OEM-1 and run them directly to your amps. Also, do NOT try to use any stock wiring in your system. If you're adding aftermarket amps to aftermarket speakers, run a min. of 16 guage speaker wire to each speaker from the amp.

So any idea what the alternators are rated? Couldn't find anything in the owner's manual, and I can't get to it cause it's pretty far down.

Since I'll have a 55x4 and a 150x1 (both at 4 ohms) i figured:

(55 x 4) + (150 x 1) = 370 370 x 2 = 740 740/13.8 = 54

So that means that this system will draw 54 amps. Will I have enough juice? Thanks.

My stock alt. was 105amps max. Ran a 200x4@2ohm amp and a 1000x1@2ohms amp with 2 farad cap off the stock alt. No problems in over 2 years. Now I have a H/O alt. made by Irragi Alternator. dominick@tds.net

My stock alt. was 105amps max. Ran a 200x4@2ohm amp and a 1000x1@2ohms amp with 2 farad cap off the stock alt. No problems in over 2 years. Now I have a H/O alt. made by Irragi Alternator.
Wow. So I guess my 55x4 and 150x1 may be ok! ;)

Is there a hole in the firewall that you can run an 8 awg wire through, or did you have to drill one?

This weekend's project is to start taking things apart and seeing where everything will fit. Just curious if I should waste my time looking for an opening in the firewall, or just head straight for the drill!

Read this (http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=48092&referrerid=7340<br%20/>) thread. Especially the part about getting wires through the firewall. :)

My lights dimmed everytime the bass hit, so I added 2, 1/2 farad LA caps...one for each amp, and my problem went away.