It has been a few months since I had the heads and cam done on my car. The car is a 98 M6 T/A. Just recently it has been having ALOT of problems that I just can't seem to figure out! It all started with the temp gauge not reading right and the idle acting all screwy. It would rev by itself during idle from 700rpms to 2 grand and then drop and die. I changed the coolant temp sensor in the driver side head since it was broken and that fixed the problem of the gauge which now reads proper temp again. I also changed the throttle position sensor to see if that's what had happened to my idle. Now the car has started to missfire very violently after a warm restart and while cruising at NON WOT speeds it buckles and jerks like if I was a
newbie at shifting a six speed . It also backfires if I shift normally at NON WOT between gears, it does it especially bad under 3 grand.It also still idles crazy and randomly starts to rev and hold an idle at 2 grand right before a missfiring fit. I changed the plugs recently and that didnt help. I checked the wires and fuses
and all look ok. Eveything is back on tight and snug. The number one and number three cylinder plugs however are white(lean) while the rest are fine or slightly rich. Those two cylinder plugs are also slightly coated with oil, making me suspect that I had two bad valve seals. Jason99T/A had told me that it coulda been the fact that I had forgotten to red loctite the intake rocker bolts. I have gone ahead and done that now. I need to check to see if that solved the problem. I am also thinking that the lean condition coulda
been the bad coolant temp sensor since the manual says it can cause improper fuction of the fuel injection system. If not I am gonna pull the injectors and clean em out to see if they are clogged. It also now starts real rough sometimes and I have to keep cranking it to the point that I think I'm gonna toast my starter. When it does start it'll smoke for just a second(white thin fume like smoke, smells like fuel) but only after a
rough start. When it starts ok, like after a cold start, it doesnt smoke. Last weekend it started to have the low coolant light come on after missfires and now it stays on all the time. The car's coolant level is fine and
doesn't over heat according to my gauges. I still have the stock tb hole size, only mods to it is porting and JB welding the trap. I also have a ported MAF out of an 01 LS1, since I was told it would work with my 98. is this correct? I have had these on there for months after my H/C work and they didn't seem to cause any problems. I haven't changed out the 02 sensors, just cleaned em out since I haven't had any tuning done yet. I'd hate to foul out a new pair and have to buy another one after tuning. I have no idea what to check next. Some one told me to see if my water pump was still working, I don't see why
not since the car doesn't over heat but why else a low coolant light? Could it be air in the system? Aren't LS1's self bleeding though??? Could it be a Vacuum leak? Could it be a broken valvespring even though these have less than 3000 miles on them and I did check em(visually)? The car seems to be down on alot of power and it is VERY frustrating. The fuel economy on it is HORRIBLE aswell now! Please help me since this little BS has slowed me down on getting the car tuned and focusing on getting a new nine inch with some gears installed/paid for.
Thanks in advance!
Rick
ps.MODS are as follow from what I can best rememember:
Comp 918's valve springs/Titanium retainers, comp hardened pushrods, GTP "PIG" cam[591/591 226/226 112], S2 heads, LS6 intake,Hooker Long tubes, Dr. gas true three inch dual exhaust, whisper lid, fernco coupler, 160 stat, ported 01MAF, ported Tb, TR55/MSD 8.5mm, B&M Ripper, BMR strut tower brace, waiting install on nine inch with
4.56's,IRS terminator lower control arms/relocation brackets

 

Rick, I would really try a stock MAF for your car. I have heard that the01 maf's read different, but I am probably wrong. I would seriously try that though. That is the biggest thing that I can think of. Try unplugging the MAF and see if it runs the same. Good luck. Oh and guess what? I am not going to get my car until next week. Oh well, I guess that I will see you tonight.

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95 White t-top Z28 M6 Mods include: Hotcam, Macs w/ offroad pipe, flowmaster, airfoil, TB bypass, !EGR, !CAGS and a hurst short throw shifter. Many more to come. I will have some times after I break in my motor.

 

LMFAO!!!!
Brook, you dumbass, your comments amaze me every time....

 

Rick , the theory about the MAF could indeed be correct !! The PCM would need to be recalibrated to read the new MAF correctly !! Stop by the shop ( EXXON @ 29th & Villa Maria ) and We'll put it on the scanner and see what's up , but try your old MAF first, K ??? Ed

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New Sig. !!! 434 Small Block is now in the car !!! Ross lightweight flat top racing pistons ,( 11.5 Compression ), 6in. 4340 rods w/ARP wavelock bolts , 4340 Forged non-twisted steel crank , Solid Roller cam-260 Degrees ( @ .050 ) 270 on the exhaust , .610 lift w/1.5 Rockers. Fully ported Alum. heads , Ported Victor Intake , Barry Grant Carb. and three stages of N.O.S. ( 350 H.P. )Lots of shiny stuff and still a daily driver !!!

 

Brook: keep dreaming you fairy. Don't you have a Honda or some POS you had to finish breaking I meant putting together...

Ed: Will do man, I'll come by sometime this week to check out the car on a scanner.

Rick

 

Definetly change out the 01 MAF, with a completly unmolested stocker. Ive personally seen this same type of stuff(mainly misfiring, studdering etc)on a car with a different MAF than it came with. If that doesnt work, you've always got the scanner from the guy above

Good Luck!

 

will scan and post results so yall can have fun pickin em apart
Rick

 

I just remembered that the MAF isn't the problem. MAFs on Fbodies are not calibrated for the injectors like the mustang ones are, the Fbody is injector size calibrated in the PCM. So unless it went bad which I doubt it(its practically new) I should be ok regardless of the fact that its out of an 01 LS1 in my 98 LS1.
Gonna pull the valve covers this weekend, I am starting to lean towards the broken valve spring possibility right now. If not that then its got to be the 02's or a loose ground(electric problem). I am thinking the grounds behind the driver side head could have come loose maybe? The low coolant light is probably a bad sensor, a problem most commonly seen in LT1's from what I hear but I guess my luck has been that $hitty lately so it doesn't surprise me.
We'll see...
Rick



[This message has been edited by PhatT/A (edited July 26, 2002).]

 

I know its a long way from you but theres a guy in Forney Tx (Dallasarea) who can fix anything, if he cant fix better try God 972-564-9475 Russ's Rods

 

Thanks to Jimbo95Z28 she is running great again! It turned out to be just the MAF. A stock MAF with the screen in it still was put in and the ported one taken out and now she drives smooth again.
Rick


[This message has been edited by PhatT/A (edited July 27, 2002).]

 

SWEET JESUS, TUNE YOUR CAR FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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'95 m6 z-28
52cc stock port factory lt-1 heads & intake little cam
stock tb, rockers, & gears

12.32 @ 112.08 1.779 60'
n/a

e-mail: solid95z@slowcar.net

 

Do yall want to hear something crazy? Guess that MAF he is using. It is not a LS1 maf from any year of them. It is not an aftermarket MAF either. It is not off of an LT1 either. The maf that is on his car that is working so great is the one out of my 1996 Full size chevy truck. I put his ported and polished one in my truck, and it is most definately the maf. It runs OK in my truck, not good, but ok. It threw a code the first day, and I had trouble starting it once, but other than that, it works for now. Just goes to show you that GM V8 maf's are not vehicle specific. At least from 94-2001. Good luck rick, but I will still need that back soon

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95 White t-top Z28 M6 Mods include: Hotcam, Macs w/ offroad pipe, flowmaster, airfoil, TB bypass, !EGR, !CAGS and a hurst short throw shifter. Many more to come. I will have some times after I break in my motor.

 

I am accepting cash and/or check donations at this time for "Tune Rick's car Foundation".
Rick

 

Part of the Gay-Lesbian Alliance as I remember eh Rick?

 

No it's more the "get the d1ck out of Chris's mouth" Organization.
Rick