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Ran the car on the dyno and am a little upset, made 356.38 hp and 340.01 tq. The AFR was at 12.1, I then changed the tune to lean it out and lost hp down to 346.05 and 332.18 tq.

My tune is a tune I have been working on for some time, the guy at the dyno said that my 28 inch tall tires and a 3:42 gear was hurting me.

The car has a t56 and when they did the pull it was in 3rd gear. I ran a best of 12.80 @ 114 mph with a 2.3 60'.....I figured it would put down more power seeing how the trap was at 114 mph.

 

If its le2 cc306 then something seems off. I made 350 with, short headers , le1 heads, lt4 hotcam. Stalled A4
Here is a le1 cc306 car usually runs 118-120 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmZ0-0cqoYA

 

I know the tune is off, It is a tune off of the web and I have been tweeking it for some time now. I know I need a mail order tune or a true dyno tune,
the TQ seems very low, I think I am going to try a mail order tune...any suggestions?

 

You could try pcmforless.com; they are who I had my tune by when I had the lt1 pcm and opti. Finding a good tuner for the lt1's local is not easy, so I went with the 24x lsx pcm system the car runs a lot smoother with it too. Your car should run low 12s with that mph and a better 60'; looks like you had some wheel spin. I am thinking once you have all of the bugs worked out it should make it into the 11s.

 

What brand dyno was it? We know which ones are hero makers and which ones are heart breakers!

Concentrate on the area under the curve; that affects performance much more so than peak numbers. The dyno is just another tuning tool. It works because you saw that just leaning it out lost power. Use the dyno to compare tunes and not worry about the actual numbers. Anyone can wave around "tweaked" dyno graphs and still not have the best performance.

 

for what its worth, the pull shouldve been done in 4th gear to get more accurate numbers. dyno pulls should always be done in the gear closest to 1:1, and since thats 4th gear in a t56, use that gear next time.

 

Well it only cost me 20 bucks for two pulls, the dyno was a dynojet and the shop only deals with hondas. They seemed like they really did not know what they were doing when it came to running a rear wheel drive car on the dyno.

I will probably get a mail order tune after I get the pcm repaired since my battery died while flashing it with my laptop...

 

I would have too agree with the torque being low. I hit 320rwhp and 369 ftlbs n/a with a 355 ,xfi280,basically stock heads and bolt ons. This is on a eddy current 2200 ft up in the mountains
My elevation is 220 ft. Some people can't run a dyno. My car ran a 10.8@125 with a 150 shot but only made 370rwhp with that 150 shot. Did make 501 ft lbs though but I have never heard of a full weight body running 10's with only 370rwhp. Not too mention it was only a 50rwhp difference between n/a and a 150 shot. Oh yeah i have a high stalled auto as well and supposedly that contributes to sh**** numbers as well.

 

Wow I skipped your signature. Dynojet and 6 speed should be bigger numbers bro WAY bigger. Try a different dyno. I bet when you leaned it out it retarded timing cuz it picked up knock.

 

Let the track do the talking. Get your 60' down. Every tenth on the launch is 2 tenths on the back end. Get it down too a 1.6 and you have a low 11's car on motor. My car runs mid 12's on motor. It really likes its spray lol

 

Yup,what he said.

How was the lines on the graph? were they nice at straight and flat or were there small squiggles?

Squiggles can mean an ignition problem.

 

The HP graph was a steady climb from 1000 rpm to 5700 rpm, the dude operating the dyno let off at 5700 rpm's and I don't know why.
The TQ graph was pretty flat from 2000 to 5500 rpm's.

I ran the car last night in 55 degree weather and the car went 13.01 @ 113 mph, I did do a datalog and found the PCM is pulling 5* of retard the entire run down the track. My 60' was a 2.2 and I was shifting at 6300 rpm's.

On the way home from the track freescan showed a steady 3 to 4 degree's of knock retard all the way home. My AFR gauge was @ 14.7 to 15.9 of the trip home. I know I have to richen it up.

Car has 3.42 stock rear and I run a 28" tall nitto 555r, when I launch the car it almost always bogs. I did have 4.10's but destroyed the spider gears and the ring and pinion a few months back when I tried to launch at 4000 rpm's...lol

My problem is getting out of the hole, I think the combination of a 3.42 and a 28" tall tire is hurting me along with the knock retard.

 

estimated hp = (trap speed/234)^3 * vehicle weight

(114mph/234)^3 * 3600 lb. = 416hp

rwhp ~ 0.85 * 416hp = 354hp.

I think the dyno gave realistic numbers. Which most people hate!

Don't see the point of finding a dyno to give bigger numbers, the idea is to find a dyno that is known to give consistent measurements and stick with it.

 

I see you are in Florida. Have you tried contacting Jeremy Formato? Only name off the top of my head that is still doing LT1 dynotunes in FL.

 

Yes I have thought about him, I will contact him once I get the 383 built.