Lower Ball Joint position?

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Jun 29, 2008 | 05:13 PM
  #1  
I haven't got the lower ball joint out yet but when I do, is there any certain position they go in? Since they have no bolts like the uppers, and I don't see anything in the documentation that says anything about this. This is on a 1996 Z28 with Moog ball joints. Thanx
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Jun 30, 2008 | 07:26 AM
  #2  
i ahve a 86 and if you look everyhting is proportional. So no it shouldn't matter, and i know you have a newer car but unless its a bolt in, there should be no problem!

just press it in and youll be good!
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Jun 30, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #3  
Thanx for the reply
Yeah I kinda figured that but I still had to ask just in case. The only problem now is that the press I bought off of ebay is all bent out of shape, after getting out one lower ball joint. I know I can rent one from autozone but I kinda like to own one. Which brands are good without being too expensive.
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Jul 1, 2008 | 10:45 PM
  #4  
harber freigh sell a press for less than 50.00 works good, be sure read info which came with new joint some pressin joints do index so the rubber boot does not leak grease onto rotors
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Jul 2, 2008 | 09:30 AM
  #5  
Just call autozone and see how much the deposit is to rent it. Then if you like it, keep it, and they will buy another one with your deposit. The deposit is the cost of replacement of the rental tools, I used to work there.
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Jul 5, 2008 | 11:59 AM
  #6  
jaguar5822 since you worked there, do you ever recall one of AutoZone presses ever coming back bent or seperated. They all look the same to me accept the Snap-On, which really looks like big version of a regular c clamp, and it cost way too much $600. Maybe the others are forged or made out of better material then the one I have?

SS SLP2, I'm not sure what you mean by index, the only thing it really says about any location (Moog) is to make sure the word "inboard" on the rubber boot is pointed away from the wheel. Is that what you're talking about?
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Jul 5, 2008 | 12:23 PM
  #7  
Ours looked like a big c clamp as well, you put the right attachments on there, and then there is a head that you screw, I used an 18" wrench and a breaker bar over that, the whole car was ready to hop off the jack stands and the tool didn't bend at all. Worse comes to worse, if it ever breaks you can take it back and get your deposit back lol.
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Jul 5, 2008 | 12:43 PM
  #8  
So if the AutoZone tool were to do the same thing I would not be liable for it?

I hear this is the AutoZone model: http://greatnecksaw.com/product_info...pecial-purpose

VS. the one I bought:http://tiny.cc/D9afo
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Jul 5, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #9  
That's it, and if it breaks in any way, you just take it back. Here it is on their website: http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP296/...ductDetail.htm
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Jul 6, 2008 | 11:07 PM
  #10  
Quote: jaguar5822 since you worked there, do you ever recall one of AutoZone presses ever coming back bent or seperated. They all look the same to me accept the Snap-On, which really looks like big version of a regular c clamp, and it cost way too much $600. Maybe the others are forged or made out of better material then the one I have?

SS SLP2, I'm not sure what you mean by index, the only thing it really says about any location (Moog) is to make sure the word "inboard" on the rubber boot is pointed away from the wheel. Is that what you're talking about?

yep
Johnny
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Jul 8, 2008 | 11:11 PM
  #11  
Be aware that lower ball joint is a bitch to get back in, i have the 1LE A arms, and it took 2 experienced mechanics 2 hours to get that thing in, i took mine to a shop with a press, and they couldnt get it in.
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Jul 9, 2008 | 12:15 AM
  #12  
Maybe you had crappy mechanics? I did it on my ws6 without any issues with that kit from autozone and a large breaker bar on top of an 18" wrench =) The hardest part was making sure it isn't going in crooked or lopsided.
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