I just put on my ls1 brakes with powerslot rotors and hawk pads. But something is not right. It seems as if i can't push the brake pedal in as far as i used to. It feels like i can only push it 3/4 of the way in. Under hard braking, it feels like fade..I push as hard as i can, and the car will not slow down! I have bled the brakes 2x thinking we did it wrong, but im stumped! I need to check the lines and look for holes...do i need a different master cylinder? My car is a 93 so im unsure if the ls1 brake conversion requires a new master cylinder or not...the lines are stock lt1 lines...I have put about 500 miles on them, and followed the brake in procedure to a T. please advise me brake guru's!

 

Did you change the brake fluid at the same time? Did you check for leaks from the bleeder bolt?

 

Yes and Yes...what about my master cylinder? Is it compatable with ls1 brakes? Keep in mind my car is a 93

 

I had the same problem w/ my stock LS1 brakes.. I think it's the hawk pads.. Did you break them in properly? The slotted rotors seemed to help a bit. I think because they cut a new surface in them every time you brake.. I used them on the stock rotors and they glazed over VERY badly!

Old pads on the bottom.


also FWIW: I hear the LS1 brakes are a bit rear biased...Not sure how true that is.

 

So it did it to your brakes huh? I follwed the brake in instructions, so i dont know? They are the Hawk ceramic pads...are they compatable with these rotors?
http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...&vid=3&pcid=21

They are the ones at the top of the page

 

One more thing...I noticed that when we were bleeding the brakes, I was pumping the brakes, and half way through it the pedal seemed like it would only go in 3/4 of the way, and it seems to be the same way when I push in the brake pedal..I can only push it in 3/4 of the way and when its pushed in that far, the brakes fade real bad and I can't stop!

 

^ My problem was an inconsistent pedal.. Sometimes it stops fine and some times it would hardly stop at all.. Like braking in corners would set the ABS off. When I posted my question, they asked if I had bled the ABS unit. You can bring it to a dealership to have them do that. I have no idea what the procedure is.

They should be compatible w/ those rotors. I had power slots on my last car, I have the WS6Store rotors on now. Did the PS's have a brake in procedure for the rotors?

Another thing to remember is, the ceramic pads are a race pad. You really have to heat them up to get the full effect.

And yeah.. The WS6 Store rotors and new HPS pads from Hawk did the trick. It's a lot better, but not the braking I'd come to expect from dual piston FT calipers.. I have braided lines too, if it matters.

Here's some of my brake problem threads.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...brake+problems
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...brake+problems

Here it is..
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...brake+problems

FWIW: These are the pads my friend has and he loves them..
Wagner Thermoquiet Semi-metallic Brake Pads
His car stops HARD too! I'm starting to think it's the pads. THey don't get enough heat as a DD. I suppose in a FULL race situation, they'd be fine.

 

I figured it out..took off wheels and inspected calipers and pads and rotors and everything is breaking in nicely. I only see 10 in of hg with this big blower cam, so im going to need to add a vacuum booster! Kinda sucks but at least I will be able to stop!

 

Yeah, when I did my C5 conversion with hawk pads it took it a few hundred miles before the pads started to bite(even after following the break in procedure).

 

Check this out.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...light=canister

 

So did you install the cam at the same time as doing the brake conversion?? If the cam was in there before the brakes, you should have had the same problem with the old brakes. My current cam pulls about 10in Hg at idle in Drive which was not enough to hold 'em at a stop light for very long...installed a looser TC and problem solved....the looser TC lets the engine freewill easier when in gear cause in Park it would pull around 14in vac.

 

I lost engine vac to the brake booster (3 Hg @ idle/ 13 Hg coasting with throttle closed.) No brakes, or very little. I added a vac booster from Summit (SSBC unit). According to them, you need @ min 16 Hg to stop. The Vac pump puts out 20 Hg. Not to many places to mount the pump on an F_body. Usually with low vac the symptom is a hard brake peddel. I'm runnning a 231/ 240 CM cam with .560 lift. Hope this helps. (97ss 383 D1 M6) B.