firebirdStud

Hi all.

I just did an LS1 console swap in my car, and discovered that the ebrake cables were worn out. I also decided to see how bad they were hanging up, so after a drive (about 20 minutes) I used my laser thermometer.. the drivers side was 110 degrees and the passenger side was 230 degrees.

So I started down the path of addressing this. I replaced all three e brake cables last weekend. Was a pain since my car is lowered, and I have a Dana 60. Had to drop the driveshaft and also remove the console after just installing it. No biggie, a day and they were in. The passenger cable was all sorts of not working, so all three needed replaced anyways.

No bueno. The calipers were still hanging up.

Did more research, and found that the LT1 calipers are just a poor design for the ebrake. Fine

Ordered the fancy Power Stop calipers because they were the only ones I could find with all new ebrake hardware included, and they were only 12 bucks more per side than crappy Advance rebuilds. Score. These are powder coated red as well.

Spent today swearing and installing them, along with new rubber hoses. Got them installed, and couldn't bleed them with my mighty vac.. it kept pulling air around the threads of the bleeders.. so ran to Advance and got the Dorman Speed Bleeders 12706. I don't know what the problem was, but they were really slow even with my mighty vac at 25 psi suction. But, I ended up getting them bled, and I ran a bunch of fluid through it because it was a nasty dark green.

Put the tires back on and gave the e brake a try.. they still hang up. Granted, not NEARLY as bad.. but I can still reach my hand through the wheels and can manually pull the e brake lever back to rest. It moves probably 1/2" or so. It pulls back pretty easy..

So should I be worried about this? Would hitting a bump while driving be enough to jar it back to its full resting place?

Also, now my ebrake handle moves probably 80 degrees to fully engage. Before, it only moved 30 degrees if I was lucky - but the e brake didn't hold well and the one cable was binding like crazy. Maybe the full travel of this lever should be almost 90 degrees.. I dunno.

Any advice? Is this fine, or are there more issues here?

JakeRobb

Injuneer

Sounds like you may have a one-way restriction in the passenger side hydraulic line, as evidenced by the difficulty in bleeding. Brake fluid flows toward the caliper when you actuate/compress the piston with the e-brake, but can’t flow backwards out of the caliper when you release the e-brake. Check for damage to the line that runs along the top of the axle tube.

firebirdStud

Yes, I looked at the adjustment cam, and it appears to be functioning properly. I tried to force it to adjust tighter, but the cable prevents it (which tells me the adjuster is doing its job since it can't go any tighter.) Is this how the system should operate, only going up 30-40 degrees?

I don't have to pull the ebrake lever on the caliper very hard at all. I could do it with my pinky finger. The old setup, however, took some force to pull it back to the resting state. This is a much better situation now.

There's a spring on the ebrake lever bracket that makes the lever go back to full rest. The variable pad thickness should not come into play for this specific issue.

firebirdStud

Thanks Fred, I hadn't thought of a restriction in the passenger rear hard line. As I think about that though, when I disconnected the rubber line from the hard line when I replaced it, the fluid dripped out pretty quickly. Probably a little faster than the dirver's side did. If it could gravity drain that quickly, would there still be a restriction? Is there a check-valve anywhere in the system?

My car has ABS but does not have traction control.

Injuneer

There’s no check valve. But it’s like what can happen with a hose (which I know you replaced) - the fluid flows in on direction under pressure, but won't flow backwards because a flap of the hose is blocking the return. Maybe a chunk of something caught in a dent in the hard line.

I'm not saying this is absolutely the correct answer, just trying to think of possibilities. The fact you have changed the rear axle assembly to the Dana may have compromised a line... just guessing.

Do you have traction control? That would mean you have two independant lines and hoses all the way from the ABS motor pack to each individual rear caliper, expanding the number of locations a one-way flow barrier may have occurred. That would also render the ABS motor for the passenger rear suspect.

firebirdStud

OK, I understand what you're saying. Makes sense.

I do not have traction control. Only ABS.

I replaced that axle probably 10 years ago now. Could that manifest itself in an issue now?

After checking the lines from the ABS module back to make sure nothing got overly kinked, should I power flush it again? I live alone, and just moved to Colorado so I don't have anyone to help my flush the system, so I bought those speed bleeders. I hook up my mighty vac hand pump, put it on 25 psi vacuum, and then go in the car and pump the brakes 3 times, then reset it all and do it again. It takes a while, but this is the only way I can figure to do it solo. Is there another way you can think of to do this alone?

Injuneer

Lines on the rear axle are just a suggestion to check. I tiny crimp that was not a problem 10 years ago could be a problem if you have severe corrosion in the system now from old brake fluid, as indicated by the dark green color.

If I read your post correctly, the sticking caliper seemed to be the one on the passenger side, with the very high operating temp. Was there any significant difference in the bleeding results between the driver and passenger side? Did both sides bleed very slowly?

Any chance there was a problem with the ABS system? If you do have a code set for ABS, you have to manually “rehome” each ABS motor before bleeding. Takes a Tech-1 tool, or there is a procedure in the factory manual if you don’t have a tool.

Free download of factory manual, courtesy of GaryDoug:

https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

firebirdStud

The passenger caliper was indeed the one that stuck before swapping out to new calipers, new e brake cables, and bled the lines.

The ABS has not ever had an issue since I have owned it. In the beginning I had a wheel bearing that had a bad sensor, but I replaced that and it has been fine ever since. That was probably 13 years ago.

I was able to drive it today. I pulled the e brake all the way up, and then released it and drove about 5 miles in city traffic. When I got to the destination. I checked the temps. Both rotors were at 146-151. That seems fine to me.

I then drove 6 miles to the next place, again applying the ebrake and then driving traight off. Same thing. Rotors were about 136 ish for both. Seems great.

Final leg, did the same thing, and drove about 6 miles home in city traffic. Getting to my house has two stop signs, so I expected a little warmer rotors as no time to cool. This time they were both 170 ish. Still seems fine.

It appears that the brake not releasing completely at the caliper while standing still isn't an issue. Either the driving and bumps give it the jolt it needs to fully extend the cable the additional 1/2", or that little bit of travel doesn't affect the brakes at all.

Now for a new problem, that e brake handle I have to pull all the way up until the handle contacts the back of the console, and it feels like it would pull up even more. Is this normal? It just doesn't seem to ever get tight.

I know the old cable would stop at about 40 degrees of rotation, but that was more to do with a binding center e brake cable that I found upon removal.