gt_biker13

Putting a little more negative camber will help but dont go too far. You dont want to be riding on half the tire, also the inside wheel should have positive camber when you turn so if you set the static camber too negative then you wont get that.

Capn Pete

^ ^ well, from what I've read, most of the guys who do auto-x / road racing, etc. (SCCA type events) run -1.0° camber on both sides, typically around +4.5° caster, and anything from 0" toe to +3/32". I got the car up in the air yesterday and pushed the camber as far as it would go. I also tried the caster, but already appears to be maxed out (and again, from what the guys say in racing, as much caster as possible is best ). The toe immediately went very noticeably IN! So I adjusted it back out, and I'm pretty sure I landed around ~ +1/16" toe out (which would equate to 2/32"). I want to double check that today before I road test the car, but I'm confident the camber will help out on the track this weekend . (Mosport International Speedway, about ~20 minutes north-east of Oshawa).

Joe's 94 Z28

Hey ok so. I know my stuff for the most part i am a mechanic but this car still has grey areas. Im asking cause its under snow in the driveway right now. But 5 years ago i got epilepsy and had an accident in the car ran off the road while i was having a seizure .. My alignment was knocked out in the process the car i never gave up on and was kinda my inspection to over come epilepsy and i am getting my license back finally after five years and am just asking you guys cause you seem to know your stuff really well. I dont see any damage under the car in the k member or suspention. I know it's possible to be looking at replacing parts i want to do control arms anyway but for now i just want it driving. Is it possible it was simply just knocked out of alignment by the trip into the ditch?? I was able at the impound yard i picked it up from to turn the wheel in enough with the tie rod end to drive it the 2 hours home and a time or two after that when i had no choice other then the obvious pull everything still felt tight and handled fine. Just asking so i know whether i am going to be looking at major repairs or the luck of just an alignment being all that's needed. Thanks for any answers you guys can give me.

Joe.

Injuneer

While you posted in a thread on "adjusting caster", is caster the specific problem you have identified with your alignment? Or is it more of a general problem? Sounds like the steering wheel wasn't pointing straight ahead or you had a toe-in/toe-out problem that was partly resolved by adjusting the tie rod end.

Probably need to have the alignment checked to see if they can get it into spec. If not, the lower control arms and the steering rack are supported of the K-member that also supports the engine. There are aftermarket K-member and A-arm replacements. Upper control arms are supported by the unit body structure, so damage there can be a bit more of a problem.

Have you verified the wheels are not bent?

For more D-I-Y help, you can download a copy of the 1994 factory service manual here:

LINK: 4TH GEN SERVICE MANUALS; 82-02 PARTS DIAG; 99-02 WIRING DIAG - Fourth Generation Pontiac Firebird (1993 - 2002) - Firebird Nation

Suspension is Section 3 in Volume 1 of 2, Part 1 of 2. Alignment is Section 3A.

PS - you aren't likely to hear from any of the people who posted earlier in this thread. Most of them haven't signed back into this site in 3 to 7 years.

Joe's 94 Z28

Hey thanks for the reply. The wheels are not bent the steering wheel is out of center yes. I turned the toe in afterwards to be able to take the car home but it does have incorrect camber and toe. Looking at everything under the car and under the hood all seems to be where it should be. There was body damage but all appeared to be cosmetic upon inspection.

Injuneer

Shoebox has the factory component diagram that will show all the elements. If there are no signs of a bent A-arm, or damage to the K-member, may be a damaged bushing in the A-arm, upper or lower. Hard to see without some disassembly. After 23 years, bushings are usually deteriorating.

http://shbox.com/1/front_suspension.jpg

Caster and camber are adjusted solely with the front and rear mounting bolts for the lower A-arms, one horizontal and one vertical. Usually badly rusted in an older car.

Joe's 94 Z28

Ok perfect. I was able to get it pretty close by eye and should be able to have it all aligned to where it should be. I am intending to do the control arms in the front. Just thought i would ask around and see if there was anything else i should be looking for incase.

Thanks Joe