Hey guys im new to the site. I have a 1994 camaro z28. About a year ago i put a new lt1 in the car because the previous owner was stupid about the water pump being bad. Recently the auto 4l60e went in the car, and i will be doing the t56 conversion. I was just curious as to what you guys would think the best performance upgrades for the car to be after the t56. I have a budget of around a grand, and just want to make the car faster

 

CAI
Hi Flow Exhaust (Pace Setter Long tubes if you can get away with Lts)
Mail Order Tune
1.6 non-sa roller rockers with dual springs, quide plates and hardened push rods.

Shop around for the parts and you might find some items that even if they are used, if they are in good condition, will work fine---usually stuff on this site where the member upgraded. JMHO

 

Gears if you have 2.73 or 3.23 in it now.

 

thanks for the advice. i've heard non SA roller rockers dont really make a difference, was just wondering if this is true

 

longtubes and 4.10 gear, then drag radials. Might go over budget though

 

BTW, if it is cheaper and easier to repair the A4 and add some 3.73 gears, it makes it is easier to get the proper shift points for maximum times in the 1/8 and 1/4---M6s are great if you go with at least a 3.73 and are a great manual shifter. You can also add a higher Torque Covertor down the road. JMHO

 

3.73s
lt's
tires

 

well at the moment with the transmission its a headache. the trans isnt shifting, all it does is rev out until i let off the gas and then if shifts. i was thinking of just putting the t56 in because thats what i want to do in the long run, but im not sure. maybe fixing the trans would be a better idea, but 4l60e is not good quality to my knowledge

now i just need you guys to agree on gears hahaha

 

4l60e's in stock form are not great

but one built by a reputable shop is nice

if trans is not shifting under WOT but not slipping it could be a few other things, the map I believe helps determine the WOT shift so either a bad sensor or vacuum leak could be the culprit. I had a vacuum leak cause this problem for me once

 

In re "non-sa RRs, I am referrinng to a higher ratio, i.e. 1.6 v. stock 1.5 ratio, which results in a higher lift along with affects of a bit longer duration as far as the valve opening events, which in turn provides more air and fuel which provides more TQ/HP----basically like a teeny tiny cam only easier to do.

The non-sa (non-self adjusting advantage offers a bit more control and stability at higher RPM---and going with the stronger springs will allow one to use available power without suffering valve float with the stock springs.
The hardened push rods are necessary since the guide plates required for Non-SA RRs, would be subject to being scraped and weakened by the friction between the guide plate and the rods.

Key to more power is more air and more fuel. Increasing the air/fuel intake and exhaust events results in more power. Quality and strength of the parts ensures maximum results with the combination.

 

yeah its stock. the 4l60e has given me its share of problems. i broke a transmission mount when i put the engine in and waited a little while to fix it because im dumb. the transmission clucked for a while when i took off faster, and the gears would grind occausionally. the mount is fixed now, but now i have this problem since repairing it. ill check sensors and get back. but should i put money into this tranny, seeing as its a POS?

 

thanks bubba it makes more since now that you explained it. any brand suggestions for the rockers, springs and pushrods?

 

if auto stick with 3.73, with manual 4.10
them seem to be the popular choice atleast.

 

If you want an M-6 because you like row through the gears then go with it, however I would think it would be a job to convert----and btw, 6th gear is worthless as a 2nd overdrive if you have any hills at all, so you'd be advised to include a higher gear, something between a 373 and 410, probaby a 39...

As a rule an A-4 can provide better times and traction, and an addition of higher converter down the road will further increase those attributes.

If you are comfortable with an A-4, and the cost of repair/replacement less or comparable to converting to the M-6 ---that is something you need to decide. From my perspective, the modifications required to convert often result in a mess----you'd be well-advised to just get yourself a another car with a stick and good engine----the cost of modding can easily be more than buying a completely different car, whereas, depending on the mods and the combination, you can have a 94 Lt1 that performs and shows well at a reasonable cost----bearing in mind the solid adage, that more power=more money.

 

nah i was just going to do the swap because the auto 4l60e is a piece of **** stock. But if i can get it working again, and its just a sensor or something then ill stick with it for a little while longer. I know what your saying on the fact that the mods required to do the switch can get over whelming, my brother did the conversion in his 87 iroc and it looked like a pain. For the A4, what gears are the best did you say? also is getting a shift kit, different than gears?