So I'm about to get my car back from being rebuilt, the cam bearings messed up and car started knocking. My mechanic said the car has been overbored .040" making it a 357ci I think. My questions are how much Hp is the car putting out right (car in sig) now being all new refurbished and what do I have to do to make about 350 hp to the wheels?

 

to get 350 to the ground you'll need a mild heads/cam setup.
your new engine will at most make a few horses over your previous one.
Right now if everything is running right i'd say your car has 280 hp to the ground. if you have the money i'd put some heads/cam on it before putting it back in your car. 1100 bucks for a budget 1LE setup will get your 350 or more to the ground.

 

I'd like to put better cam/heads in, but don't money right now so it'll be a project a little further down the road. thnx,

 

Depends on how well the rebuild was done. If he used cheap old school pistons with a standard ring pack it was a step backwards from stock, and I would venture to say most local shops doing budget rebuilds do exactly this.

 

Do yourself a favor and select a cam that you can use with a vented opti spark, so you can convert the 94 opti that you currently have to vented.

 

With the availability of the MSD cap and rotor kit that i the easy way to add a vent to the "unvented" opti setup.

Another thing I thought of that a LOT of local shops screw up with LT1s is they lower compression, never realizing just how high the stock compression was. Did he tell you what the new compression ratio was?

 

You have to buy the entire billet opti from MSD to have a vented opti on a 93-94 camshaft, not just the cap and rotor.

I agree with y'all that most old school builders would rebuilt the LT1 worse than stock if they don't know what they're doing.

 

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...27073_8481.pdf

Then why do they have instructions for adding the fresh air vent in the cap and rotor instructions?

 

Ok, I haven't seen those. Nevermind.

 

he didn't mess with the pistons, he said the bores were good and pistons were good, he had to get cam reground and new bearings in for the cam and crank. Should I ask him to check compression too?

 

If he bored it .040" over it needed new pistons.

I was not saying to check the compression, I was asking what the new static compression ratio was, for that you take a bunch of measurements and specs and calculate the sweep volume vs the volume left above the piston at top dead center.

Reground cam is a bit scary.

I sincerely hope you are missunderstanding this guy, because if the info you are giving us is correct it sounds like what you got back is going to be a BIG step backwards from stock.

 

I thought I read it wouldn't be truly vented without the right 96+ timing cover?

 

Timing cover doesn't have anything to do with it.

 

It does not change it to the "vented opti" but it does retrofit the unvented style with a vent. Whole lot easier.

 

oh ic, thanks.

Sorry to hijack, back to topic.

I think you're a ways from 350 rwhp. IMO, you won't get past 270 without a bigger cam and some head work/better heads. My rebuild sounds similar to yours, based on the info given, and I've got a heads/cam car (baby cam and light porting on stock heads, but still) and I hit 290 with the stock TB.