which spring compressor to use
which spring compressor to use
im trying to replace my springs but the only compressor it seems i can get ahole of is one of those huge c-clamped shaped ones which wont fit under the cowl to get the back half of the motor.
whos done this before, anyone got a pic or a part number or any info on which compressor will work for me? this is really bugging me because its all i need to do before the cars back on the road.
whos done this before, anyone got a pic or a part number or any info on which compressor will work for me? this is really bugging me because its all i need to do before the cars back on the road.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html#3271
The 3271, not the fastest tool to use but works well at least on single springs, and fits anywhere you need it.
The 3271, not the fastest tool to use but works well at least on single springs, and fits anywhere you need it.
I have used the Moroso tool, works pretty good for me.
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=27035
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=27035
I use a tool like the one Dwayne linked above, but it does not work on dual
springs. It works great on single springs though. I just looked at it and there is
no part number on it, but it's the same design. The best part about this type
of compressor is you don't have to pull the spark plugs and used compressed
air to hold the valves in place.
springs. It works great on single springs though. I just looked at it and there is
no part number on it, but it's the same design. The best part about this type
of compressor is you don't have to pull the spark plugs and used compressed
air to hold the valves in place.
WD
[QUOTE=The Engineer;5189513]Again, you won't find any tool that works better or faster than the Crane dual-spring compressor. Yes, it works great with beehives as shown in this photo.
WD
Does it require the use of air to hold the valves in place?
WD
Does it require the use of air to hold the valves in place?
No, you need to bring the piston to TDC, then the valves hit the pistons. Then, you just attach it to the rocker arm studs and tighten a nut down - but you can use an air ratchet to tighten the nut down and it goes pretty fast like that.
The Dwayne tool just grabs the outer spring lower coils and compresses it that way. So it can't compress an inner spring.
Its worth it.
Its worth it.
I use the method of placing the piston to TDC on the cylinder I'm working. Even on a stock engine (not decked) this method works really well. Also, on an LTX engine it is very difficult to remove the pulgs and place air on the cylinder.
Check-out shoeboxe's how-to site for the details (crank position indexing).
http://shbox.com/ci/valve_spring_swap.html
WD
Check-out shoeboxe's how-to site for the details (crank position indexing).
http://shbox.com/ci/valve_spring_swap.html
WD
While in the middle of my cam/spring swap, the best thing I did was invest some money into "Tim's Tool" over on LS1tech.com. Do a search for it and it will pop right up. It allows you to change the springs without removing the heads and has an optional pre-assembled air compressor fitting to fill the cylinder with air to prevent dropping a valve.
He shipped the tool out to me very quickly and everything was quality made. It is only $30 for the tool, and then $50 if you want the compressor fitting.
A buddy of mine that is helping with the build fell in love the first time he used it. I gave the tool to him just for helping me out so much
He shipped the tool out to me very quickly and everything was quality made. It is only $30 for the tool, and then $50 if you want the compressor fitting.
A buddy of mine that is helping with the build fell in love the first time he used it. I gave the tool to him just for helping me out so much


