Well, the problem from my previous post still exists. Heres the update on everything I've done since then:

-Madz28 tune is in
-spark plugs nice and tight now
-wires routed correctly
-all intake ducting hooked up, MAF plugged in

The car has gone from "popping everyonce in a while" to "rapidly popping". When I say "popping" I mean the sound you would typically hear from a h/c camaro idle, but not in synch like it should be, more of a random sound to it.

It seems like the only 2 issues left are either:

-timing is off
-I REALLY screwed up on the valve adjustment

I'm going to start with the timing since it seems most likely to be the culprit. In my last thread, someone suggested I take the cap off the opti to check if the timing is right or not. My question at the moment is... how do I tell if the cam is in the right position? How can I see if I'm at say, #1 TDC so then I can at least know what position the cam should be in?

Thanks

 

You can't really check the timing by taking off the opti cap. The only thing you can do in there is make sure your rotor is screwed on tight and everything is assembled right. You can take off the opti and use this:

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#cam_timing

to help you determine the cam position.

 

Well how will I know if it is ACTUALLY at #1 TDC? The cam might be at the right position, but maybe not accurate right?

 

you can take out the #1 spark plug and use a pocket screwdriver to feel when the piston comes to top dead center. be very careful not to get it caught in the valves. rotate the engine over untill you feel the piston push up the end of the screwdriver and keep rotating untill it stops at the top.

also did you ever fix your ground issue from your last post?

 

Yeah, I got a brand new ground strap. So that's not the problem.

For a little more info in case it helps... If I floor the pedal while cranking it, it will fire rapidly, but won't actually start. When I let the pedal go, it doesn't really fire much at all. I don't know if this maybe could mean it's a fuel issue or what? Fuel kinda squirted out of the schrader valve when I did the redneck test, so I know it has somewhat good pressure. I think before I tear into anything, I will get a pressure gauge to be sure.
Also, would a diagnostic tool come in handy in my situation? Would it maybe tell me if the problem is timing, spark, fuel or whatever related? If I could pinpoint something before I do anything I don't need to, that would be awesome.

Thanks so far

 

Vacuum leak ? If you have a bad enough vacuum leak it'll do this. Itd have to be major though, like letting the brake booster off or something.

You didnt degree the cam when yuo put it in did you? Honestly, it was the best $100 I ever spent getting a Summit degreeing kit. It comes with a piston stop, similar to what you would be doing using the screwdriver. Make sure one is on TDC, then look at the dowl pin location on the Opti.

 

I double checked that all the hoses were connected last night, so I don't think I have a leak. Is there maybe something that needs to be connected back by the firewall that I can't see? I could of easily forgotten something. I need to get my hands on a small mirror or something though...

 

EGR ??? But Im not sure what would happen if you started it woithout hooking that up? You'd hear that blowing exhaust out though lol

 

if the fuel only kinda squirted out that might be the issue. i needs good pressure to start and run. i would go ahead and get a gauge from an auto parts store and check to be shure.

 

I deleted the EGR. But the block off plate I used on the header pipe didn't clamp down tight, so I have to fill that up with some sealant or something.

Yeah, I'm hopefully going to get a gauge in the next day or so.

But can someone let me know if it would be worth it at this point to get a diagnostic tool? I wanted to get one eventually, but if it will be of any help to me now, then I'll gladly fork over the cash. I just don't know how they work, do I need to be able to start the car to use it?

Thanks a lot

 

To read codes, just the ignition on. No need to have it running. If the diagnostic tool you get can datastream, then Yes, it has to be running. It would show all Voltages/Values with it not running/cranking, but it might not show you much.