Ok so i got my project car drivable today and found out the head gasket is blown leaking coolant into the oil. The Engine has about 125,000 miles, and i got it off ebay so i have no way of knowing how it was treated. I am really trying to keep this on a budget because money is getting tight and i'm getting very tired of not being able to drive the car(i bought it over two years ago!), and which parts should i buy if any?
Should i:
A: Just replace the head gaskets and hope for the best, cost = ~150
B: Replace the head gaskets and upgrade valve train, and hope the bottom holds up. cost ~750
C: Pull the motor and change the rod and main bearing, oil pump, and head gaskets. cost ~250
D: Pull the motor get new rotating assmebly, and replace the head gaskets. w/o block machining cost ~1000/ w/ block machining cost ~1500
E: Do it all, new valve train, head gaskets, and rotating assembly. w/o block machining cost ~2600 w/ block machining cost ~3100

 

i just did all valvetrain and bottom end stuff w/out machining the block and its a beast. unless your boring it out i would recommend the whole assembly and valvetrain, if you have that money.

 

Get some felpro gaskets and upgrade your springs. and throw some 1.6 rockers on the exhaust side. See how it runs. If it holds up, well and good. If it doesn't then decide if you want to throw more money at it.

But at least with the gaskets you will be able to see if that takes care of your leak. And any stock lt1 will run better with good springs. And since the restriction is greater on the exhaust, going with a higher ratio rocker will help out in scavenging the exhaust. I would go with ARP head bolts, since yours are probably stretched anyway.

No point in putting lipstick on a pig----since, as you mentioned, you don't know exactly what you have yet. JMHO

 

I am planing on using ARP head bolts no matter which path i take.

 

your option sound like money is no option... you are going from spending ~150-~2600...
take your guestamits and multiply by .5 then add it to your answer and that is what you will more than likely spend...

AHHH, go for broke... your do for a rebuild...

 

Was there ever coolant in the oil? If so, I'd do bearings. Otherwise, it really sounds like you should just do the gaskets. Have the heads leak checked in case of cracks, and milled if warped. If you haven't driven it for 2 years it will be plenty of fun running stock. Being broke sucks worse than not having extra HP when your project car needs something.

 

there was no coolant in the oil when i got the motor but there is a little now, just enough to turn it the shade of poop.

 

Then I'd do bearings if I could swing it.

 

I can swing the bearings, its just that then the motor has to come back out of the car which is a PITA.
If i do the bearings, which oil pump should i use, GM12555884, or GM93442037?
Also, which Clevite bearing should i get? H, or P, series, full of half grove on the mains?

 

Ok so the heads are off... and cylinders 5-8 have had some exsentsive dentonation damage! The guy who had this motor before me was spraying the sh$t outta it. So it gunna need a rebuild with new pistons. I am calling the place i bought it from on monday to see how there warrant works.
Any suggestions on which pistons i should get?

 

Ok so I am considering going with scat forged H-beam rods, Forged piston (stock compression), New GM oil pump with white spring and 3/4 pickup, and a LT4 hotcam kit. Along with the new head gaskets, ARP head bolts, bearings etc. How many RPM can I safely turn with that setup? Still looking for some piston recomentdations, and anyother advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys.

 

anyone?