LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

What to do bout my leaky Lt1

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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 08:32 PM
  #1  
BoostinZ28's Avatar
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What to do bout my leaky Lt1

Well the damn motor is leaking oil from bout every gasket possible after 150k miles and i guess its times to pull it and rebuild it. First question is a mechanic told me it'd have to be dropped through the bottom instead of jackin it out of the engine bay? Secondly me and my dad are gonna build it so what kind of price ranges am i lookin at for parts? Bout how much am i lookin at to go to a 383? Also are there much increase with the 355 setup over stock? thanks guys.
Old Dec 27, 2006 | 08:43 PM
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Do some searches. The 383 is more work as you need to relieve the block for the extra stroke, but part prices are about the same. You will also most likely need a new oil pan with the stroker.
Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:06 PM
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if you stroke the motor you will need to feed it. This means upgrading the fuel system. IMO a forged 355 is a good balance between power and reliability
Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:11 PM
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BoostinZ28's Avatar
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Yeah im leaning towards the 355. So it will need bored out but i still use the stock crank. What kind of gains sre the 355s gettin over the stock 350?
Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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if you leave everything else stock then don't expect much.

If you budget for a cam, roller rockers and heads (or port your stockers) you'll have some good HP numbers.
Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BoostinZ28
Yeah im leaning towards the 355. So it will need bored out but i still use the stock crank. What kind of gains sre the 355s gettin over the stock 350?
The change in displacement from a 350 to a 355 is nil. The change will come in heads and cam and other top end components. You might be talking about a 2% gain for just the change in displacement.
Old Dec 28, 2006 | 10:26 AM
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There is a supporting vendor on here that can sell you a complete shortblock for around 3 grand or less. Of course, you can build up a budget engine for much cheaper then that, but if you are expecting gains as well, you are going to have to do more then just add some cubic inches. A lumpier cam and some worked heads will be necessary if you want better then stock numbers.
Old Dec 28, 2006 | 10:40 AM
  #8  
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honestly pull the motor and see what she looks like inside
most of the lt1 's i see come apart at right around that mileage have no ridge at the top of the cylendars and still have extremely visible crosshatching
as was the case with my motor im still using stock crank rods and pistons
total cost for my rebuild - cam and all the extran little goodies i threw in was right at 330 got the rering kit with moly rings and standard sized bearings from summit
i threw a hv oil pump in and now my oil pressure sits right at 60psi
so if your looking for cheap there is your answer and leaves you with a lot extra to throw into heads and cam which like mentioned before will net you the majority of your gains
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