LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Changing Valve Springs with SLP headers

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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 08:31 PM
  #1  
jchevy's Avatar
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Changing Valve Springs with SLP headers

I know there is a fiting to put in a spark plug hole to fill the cylinder with compressed air so the valve doesnt drop. My question is how big is this fitting and is it possible to use it with the horrible plug access the SLP dual cat shorty headers have. I would like to do a cam install and this has a lot to do with whether or not i will go ahead with the project or not.

Or will my only option be to put each cylinder at TDC.

Last edited by jchevy; Jun 13, 2004 at 08:34 PM.
Old Jun 13, 2004 | 08:38 PM
  #2  
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Re: Changing Valve Springs with SLP headers

Originally posted by jchevy
I know there is a fiting to put in a spark plug hole to fill the cylinder with compressed air so the valve doesnt drop. My question is how big is this fitting and is it possible to use it with the horrible plug access the SLP dual cat shorty headers have. I would like to do a cam install and this has a lot to do with whether or not i will go ahead with the project or not.

Or will my only option be to put each cylinder at TDC.
I would use the TDC method. The compressed air method frightens me. It's nice knowing that there's something physical holding up the valve stem, not air. And if you replace the valve seals...yeah.

It's also nice to have about 1/2" of play in the stem to fiddle with the keepers and retainers.
Old Jun 13, 2004 | 09:28 PM
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Plug access is simply too difficult to use the adapter and hose. I'd forget using compressed air and use the TDC method.
Old Jun 13, 2004 | 09:38 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I figured i would have to do it that way.
Old Jun 13, 2004 | 10:13 PM
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Save yourself some time and dont bother. You wont drop a valve on a stock stroke LT1. Do all 16 at once, THEN lash. Will save a lot of time. Use a pen magnet to hold the valve up if the valve seal doesnt (it should).
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 07:00 AM
  #6  
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Originally posted by Spinner
Save yourself some time and dont bother. You wont drop a valve on a stock stroke LT1. Do all 16 at once, THEN lash. Will save a lot of time. Use a pen magnet to hold the valve up if the valve seal doesnt (it should).
You are probably right about this method, but I don't feel comfortable relying on the seals to hold the valve up. I know I would screw up and drop a valve.

With stainless valves, its not a good idea.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 08:01 PM
  #7  
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As Spinner informed me a few months ago, the stock stroke of a LT1 wont allow a valve to fully drop.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 10:36 PM
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Originally posted by Don 97 SS
You are probably right about this method, but I don't feel comfortable relying on the seals to hold the valve up. I know I would screw up and drop a valve.

With stainless valves, its not a good idea.
Like I said, you CANT drop a valve, period. The piston doesnt travel down far enough for a stock length valve to fall through the head.
Old Jun 15, 2004 | 06:23 AM
  #9  
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Originally posted by Spinner
Like I said, you CANT drop a valve, period. The piston doesnt travel down far enough for a stock length valve to fall through the head.
I didn't know that.

I do know that I can drop a valve on my BBC engine. Since I found that out the hard way I would rather be safe than sorry.
Old Jun 15, 2004 | 07:31 AM
  #10  
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I did one better. When I was doing headers and cam, I changes my springs by using a set of long needle nose pliers with rubber boots. I noticed I could either slip them to the side and the side pressure was enough to hold the valve up, but I put the jaws around the valve stem in the intake port. The insulation around the handles held them in. I could see a rag doing the same thing. I just used my finger in the exhaust ports, I used the compressor to compress the springs, held them in with my finger, and pulled them back slightly to break them loose. Worked fine for me, 30 minutes with no problems! I had the intake off though...
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