Hey, in the middle of a rebuild right now and just remembering how the ARP bolts I used before were really hard to get a wrench on. I remember someone saying there is a bolt with a smaller head that's much easier to use.....any suggestions?

Also, I have forgotten the PN for the ARP bolts for the Mufflex Y-Pipe and I'm unorganized as hell (hundreds of receipts)

Thanks...

 

I used ARP 12-point bolts that are 3/4" long. I chose the 3/4" because some people said the 1 inch bolts could bottom out.

I found some at Summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...P%2D100%2D1201

I used the stainless bolts but I couldn't find them but those should do just fine.

As for the Header-to-ypipe, I just used some good bolts from the hardware store. They haven't loosened so they are fine. You might want to look at an auto parts store for high temp bolts.

 

I used Stage 8's on my Jet hot's (1").

 

I got the 5/16 (wrench Head size). It makes it easier to stick a socket over the 5/16 rather than the bigger 3/8 style (wrench). You can get them in a 12point or a hex design. Everyone who I talked to that used the 5/16 style said it was much easier than the 3/8 style that always seem to be a pain to put in or take out.

I "Believe" the ARP part numbers are:
100-1108 for the Hex style
100-1208 for the 12 Point

But you may want to call ARP to verify but I am pretty sure those are the numbers you need. Many folks recommended that I use the Black Oxide over the Stainless Steel ARP bolt so that is what I ended up going with.

Hope that helps,
Claude

 

tried stage 8's here but the head's were too big to clear the primaries ..ended up using some cheapo's form advance auto or something like that

 

I'm using ARP 1" stainless bolts. I really like them. The part # is 400-1210 and they were $26 from Summit. I think it would be hard to start the bolts that are only 3/4", plus the 1" has more threads to hold into the head. I've never heard of them bottoming out, and they didn't for me.

 

Thanks for the info .....are you using Hooker LT's or some other header with a thicker flange? (that would explain them not bottoming out)

 

I use and recommend these: www.go-breslin.com

 

I just switched from ARP 12pt 3/4" bolts to breslin 1" bolts. I went with the 1" bolts because the jet-hot headers have pretty thick flanges and then combined with the percy's aluminum gaskets, the 3/4" were barely in there. Also the Breslins are very easy to use and no more backing out.

 

Those are some damn cool bolts, I am going to use them on my LT's whenever I get the money...Sweet bolts, and so close to St. Patricks Day too.


-Dustin-

 

Any problems tightening the Breslins in the car? All the pictures I saw on their site were a motor on a stand.

 

I have the Breslins and what I did was to take a generic 3/8" combination wrench and ground the wall of the closed end to be thinner.

I had some minor clearance issues, but I think that has to do with tightening one bolt too far at a time. I think if I had gone one turn each bolt to bring the header up to the head it would have gone easier.

I put my headers on two months ago and haven't had any of the bolts loosen up on me or anything, so I'm VERY happy.

 

No problems at all!

 

To make tightening the bolts a little easier where there is a tight fit between the bolts and a few of the primaries, I took a spare 3/8 12 point box end wrench and cut it in half so it can be used as an open end wrench...works great!

 

I am using them with Hooker LTs and Felpro 1406 gaskets. No leaks here and those bolts rock!