thenewkid

OK so I'm in the midst of my rebuild (like to think I'm getting close haha) and have gotten the cam my shop suggested. Just curious what you all think. this is going in a street car that will see the track once in awhile (every month or 2)
------------------
CC solid roller

grind#: camshaft, 13081s/ 13142s HR 110.0 +4.0
valve adjustment HYD HYD
gross valve lift .579 .576
duration @ .006 tappet lift 282 292
valve timing @ .050
int: 10 btdc 42 abdc
exh: 54 bbdc 6 atdc

cam installed:
@106.0 intake centerline
duration @.050 232.00 240.00
lobe lift .3620 .3600
lobe separation 110.0

DrewHMS97SS

Curious on the solid roller, do you mind adjusting the rockers frequently? I just saw an episode of EngineMasters where they compared solid vs. hydraulic setups, and it didn't seem to show that big of a difference in performance (yes solid did perform better) for the extra work. I only ask since you said this will mainly be a street car.

Injuneer

Confusing.....

"CC solid roller"

and.....

"valve adjustment HYD HYD"

Injuneer

Those lobes are CC's XTREME ENERGY XFI™ HYDRAULIC ROLLERS. The "s" indicates a small block Chevy roller cam journal diameter. Definitely not a solid roller.

See pages 23 and 24:

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Ca...terCatalog.pdf

What are you putting this in? I believe in the past you indicated that you are using cast iron LT1 heads. Are they stock, or ported? If ported, what do they flow at 0.500 and 0.600? What is engine displacement?

Auto or manual trans? If auto, what stall on the converter? What rear axle?

The specs look very close to a a Lloyd Elliot cam:

Is your bottom end built for that kind of RPM?

And finally:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...nature-879835/

thenewkid

My mistake I swore he called it a solid roller in person, it is hydraulic.

Going in my 94 NA lt1 (.040 over bore) Camaro. Still using aluminum heads with mild port work.. Not sure what the heads flow, however the entire valve train was suggested by Siebert's Performance here in the Midwest while the heads were gone over.

CPT race built 4l60e with Protorque B29SS (2800-3000) stall. 3.42 gears.

Rebuilt short block. Cast crank and rods. KB hypereutectic flat top pistons and .026 head gaskets get me about 11.48 static compression.

My new timing chain setup has provision for cam advance. Is that something I should look into? Also.. I need some input on pushrod length. I was given some 7.200 chromoly PR but I don't understand how that's calculated without the deck height. Thanks

Chimera96

what valve springs did the shop say to use?

a good choice would be Lunati # 73925K5 kit

7.200 PR "may" be right length but best if you...or your shop if they are doing the assembly....measure PR length first

with a "rebuilt" motor if block was decked and heads if they were also when they were "gone over" and the thinner .026 head gasket often you need a shorter PR....BUT you would want to measure first

I would recommend NSA RR and guide plates

thenewkid

Manley springs already installed. Don't have the part number handy but was told they were 150@ 1.750 installed..

What's the easiest way to find the correct pushrod length? The heads were shaved .003 in the past and the block has been decked as well.

New CC 1.6 Promags with guide plates already.

I'm putting everything together myself beyond the short block (-valves & springs) fyi

thenewkid

Anyone here use that LE cam?

Injuneer

You have to use a pushrod length checker.

COMP Cams 7905-1: Magnum Checking Pushrods Individual Length Checker | JEGS

Check with the shop, don't know whether the "+4.0" indicates it should be installed 4-deg advanced, or that the 4-deg of advance has been ground into it. Advancing with a multple key sprocket or possibly an offset key needs to be thought out with the LT1. That can get confusing with the LT1 because it can affect the relationship of the Opti cam position signal to true TDC. What "timing chain setup" are you using?

thenewkid

Sorry Fred, upon closer inspection it seems there are no provisions for advancement. It's a lunati 92126 timing set. The description on summit is a bit misleading.

Chimera96

OP

As Fred notes you need to use a PR length check tool. His link posts one.

Some have measurement marking on them or say they increase .xxx length per x turns but I prefer to use a digital caliper I have to measure its overall length. Start with it at 7.200" (or just use a 7.200" PR). Pick a cyl you want to use as the test and mark the top of the valve with a Sharpie pen completely. Install RR and lash valve to zero lash. Rotate engine by hand 2 revolutions and remove RR. You want the witness mark dead center on the valve tip and narrow vs a wide mark. If mark is more towards the exhaust side the PR is to long so shorten it by .050 and repeat. Most off the shelf PR come in .050 length increments. Often you wind up with 7.150 or 7.100 but don't blindly assume without checking.

They sell light test springs to use for this procedure and also people either use a donor solid lifter or a hydraulic one that has been modified to be solid so it won't compress. I have just used regular lifter and spring

Another way that is very easy is to use the Proform PR checker. It comes with no instructions but you can google for a video. The one I saw shows how and I have used it against the standard PR tool and both have shown same results. They make them both in 3/8 & 7/16" size depending on what size RR studs you have. I have the 7/16" one but this link is for the 3/8

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66789

thenewkid

I like the preform tool however, I'm not sure this will work with the lift of my cam.

Chimera96

the lift of your cam does not affect how the Proform tool works. I have .575 lift and the tool worked

if the end that goes over PR is higher than PR you use feeler gauge to measure that distance and your PR need to be that amount longer. If the end over spring is higher the PR needs to be that amount shorter

If for example the distance between either is .015 than just use that size PR that you see that measurement vs ordering custom length PR....you are not building a $200k Nascar motor spinning 9k+ rpm

thenewkid

I know this IS my first build though and I tend to overthink a lot when I get nervous.

I need the 7/16 also. Summit has a 66790 but only shows gen 1. Where did you get yours?

Chimera96

the 66790 will work just fine on your LT1

If this is your first time checking PR length than the Proform tool would be easier but the regular way using the adjustable is not hard at all


There are tech pages on sites like Comp or Crane, etc. describing the process of PR checking using the standard "adjustable PR check tool" and valve lash procedure

None is Rocket science but there is certainly a right way of doing it which is a learned and practiced thing just like doing other automotive repair.

Valve train errors though can result in big booms so search, read and ask? We all started at some point. I am no mechanic but have wrenched on my cars since a teenager.

A note on finding "zero" lash (how tight you adjust the RR poly loc):

With the PR in place (make sure its bottom is set in the lifter cup and top in the RR cup).

Just start to tighten the poly with your fingers. You want to stop when you can not move the PR up & down with your other fingers. Practice a little, you will get that part quickly. Just use your fingers to slowly tighten the poly loc, no wrench yet. That is "zero" lash.

For PR length check just do zero lash then rotate motor as I described earlier.

Once you figure out PR length (7.200 "may" be OK but check). you need to lash the valves. Same deal on finding zero lash but now with a 5/8" box wrench hold the poly loc and tighten 3/4 to 1 full turn then insert a alan wrench into the locking stud of the poly loc and tighten with good effort while holding the box wrench still. You can even "slightly" tighten the box wrench once the poly stop is tightened like 1/16" turn more to really get it tight if you want

read up on "how" to adjust valves. It can be intimidating but is not hard to do once you understand the process