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Pics of my manual ball valve setup
http://slackercracker.com/hpt/Loadre/MiscCar%20001.jpg
http://slackercracker.com/hpt/Loadre/MiscCar%20002.jpg List of parts - '-4 to -4 swivel' into a '-4 to 3/8 pipe thread' into 'check ball' valve into '3/8 pipe thread to -4' Check valve found here - http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...=&lstBool=true |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
:confused:
You already have a bottle valve. I know I'm missing something...? Ryan |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
You can open the bottle and leave the ball valve closed, thus being able to see pressure without having it against the noids.
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
Too bad that one is not electric.
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
What size is your main line? That valve has a 1/8" (0.125") opening. A -4AN hose has an inside diameter of 7/16" (0.2187"). Haven't you built a restriction into your system?
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
Originally Posted by Loadre
You can open the bottle and leave the ball valve closed, thus being able to see pressure without having it against the noids.
Ryan |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
Originally Posted by Injuneer
What size is your main line? That valve has a 1/8" (0.125") opening. A -4AN hose has an inside diameter of 7/16" (0.2187"). Haven't you built a restriction into your system?
7/16 = .4375. .2187" = radius, not the diameter, right? Sorry, just a little :confused:. Always thought AN = -3 = 3/16, -4 = 4/16, -6=6/16, etc... Ryan |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
I complicated things with a typo.... should have said:
"A -4AN hose has an inside diameter of 7/32" (0.2187"). " The "rule of thumb" for AN hoses/fittings is that the "number" used in the AN designation is APPROXIMATELY the OUTSIDE diameter of an equivalent metal tube. A -4AN hose would be similar to 1/4" (0.25") OUTSIDE diameter tubing. But the fluid only flows in the area defined by the INSIDE diameter of the tubing. That is 7/32" for an Aeroquip S/S braided hose. |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
Ok. I was never taught what exactly it was.
Thanks :). Ryan |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
Fred, I will be seeing how it works on the dyno in a couple weeks. If it costs much power then it will come off.
Ryan, this method is also less than half as expensive than the 45 degree pureflo valve. :) |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
Load, if it supplies enough juice, more power to ya :).
Ryan |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
u can get the same thing with a AN male fittings on it for 8 dollars at ace hardware.
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
Originally Posted by Serene
u can get the same thing with a AN male fittings on it for 8 dollars at ace hardware.
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Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
I want this setup.
What all would I need? Have any part numbers I can take to my local speed shop? Whats the estimate on the total cost? This is a great way to monitor pressure, especially in the summer heat. For me, this is a must have. |
Re: Pics of my manual ball valve setup
Total cost is the valve ($27ish) + about $20 for fittings. Your local speed shop should just have an area displaying AN fittings, such as aeroquip, etc. If you examine the picture it's rather self explanatory. The connector with two blue ends and a red piece in the middle is a -4 to -4 connector. The threads in the body of the ball valve area 3/8 pipe thread (pipe threads narrow as you tighten it so it gets hard to tighten pretty quick, remember that), so to go from the -4 connector to the 3/8 threads of the valve you need a -4 to 3/8 connector. To go back from the threads of the valve to the -4 hose that runs to your solenoids you need another -4 to 3/8 connector, you just turn it the other way.
Items needed: (1)Ball Valve (1)-4 to -4 (2)-4 to 3/8 The easy rundown of how it goes together <Test Port with Gauge and Bottle Transducer> - <-4 to -4> - <-4 to 3/8> - <Valve> - <3/8 to -4> If you've got any more questions let me know. |
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