I have searched and I read that it should ground the solenoids. I also read that the solenoids pull too many amps and the switch should ground the relay. Which is right? I would rather ground the 'noids if I can.
Second, where do I find the tach signal wire on an LS1??
Third, I also read that some of the loops need to be cut for an LS1 since it operates on a 4 cylinder signal, is that right? If so, what ones?

Sorry I have so many questions, but I think some of the posts I have read (here and on other boards) have some misinformation.

Thanks for any help,
Dustin

 

I was wondering this too, did everyone on here who has a window switch get thiers installed at some shop? Any replys would be great. thanks, alex

 

I figured it out for myself since I couldn't get a reply here. If you search you hear a lot of different things so I can't garuntee what is true but here is what I did. It works

Black wire - To chassis ground
Red wire - To positive battery terminal ( I think I may change this to an ignition switched source)
White wire - Spliced into the white wire that comes from the # 10 pin on the PCM. (pop the gray cover off and you can see the numbers)
Yellow wire - This is the wire that controls the ground of your circuit. Ground your relay to it instead of a chassis ground.

Finally to make the switch work on an Ls1 you have to cut both the red and blue loops. I just did all of this yesterday and it all works great. Now I just need my bottle filled .

Also, If you want to save some money, make this http://www.corral.net/tech/powerplant/arm/ instead of buying the ridiculously priced rpm modules. This is better (fully adjustable) and cheaper($5-10).

Hope this helps. Ask more questions if needed,

Dustin

 

Are you saying, that instead of grounding the relay like normal to the chassis and splicing the yellow wire from the msd WS into it, you just splice the yellow WS wire and the relay ground together and NOT ground them to the chassis??

Mike

 

i have it on my lt1, cutting those loops are if u have either a 6 or 4 cylinder, your supposed to leave the loops if u have a 8 cylinder.

 

quote: Are you saying, that instead of grounding the relay like normal to the chassis and splicing the yellow wire from the msd WS into it, you just splice the yellow WS wire and the relay ground together and NOT ground them to the chassis??

Mike



Yes. The yellow wire becomes the new ground for your relay. The window switch controls the ground of the circuit (it will not be grounded if you are outside of the rpm range) so if you ground the relay to the chassis then splice, the window switch would not be able to "unground" the circuit when the rpms are out of the range you want.



quote: i have it on my lt1, cutting those loops are if u have either a 6 or 4 cylinder, your supposed to leave the loops if u have a 8 cylinder.

On an LT1 you would keep the wires intact because the optispark puts out the same (or similar) tach signal as a regular v-8 distributor. Lt1's and Ls1's are very different. On the ls1 you have a completely different ignition with a coil on each cylinder. The tach signal is in "4 cylinder mode" thus you need to cut the loops for an ls1. If you call MSD and ask them how to make it work on an Ls1 they will have you send it in to be "modified". This amounts to you paying $35 to have them cut the wires. I assumed the original poster had a ls1.

Correct me if you know any of this to be wrong. I just did this yesterday and it worked. (2002 z28)

Dustin

 

For you guys looking for a wiring schematic, here's one I found on another board and it (the single stage one) is what I used and it works perfectly.

Schematics

And like dkeers said you have to cut the red and blue loops and put it into 4 cyl mode for it to work on the LS1. I also had to do that on my ProForm shiftlight,,,,,,,

 

Thanks dkeers, I had mine wrong and i'll fix it. Appriciate the help!

Mike