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-   -   Educate me (https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/n2o-tech-23/educate-me-619023/)

PWR-TRIP 07-09-2008 02:17 AM

Educate me
 
I'm really, really thinking of going with NOS.

What kit would be good for me? (Zex,etc)

Do i have to change anything from stock? eg, waterpump or anything?

Is it expensive to fill?

Is the power really noticeable?

Would 75-125 shot be safe on lightly modded Z28?

Is NOS dangerous?

slomarao 07-09-2008 01:12 PM

1. im not sure what would be an ideal kit for you since you havent stated what you want out of it. Or provided any info with you intentions.
I would say most likely a wet kit, dry kits are a pain in the ass on lt1's.

You are going to need new plugs for sure. Gap them around .035, a few heat ranges colder than stock. They need the small gap because of the amount of pressure that will be created in the combustion chamber from the n2o. They need to be cooler because the added pressure will create much more heat also.
All the kits that you see between 450-750 dont include any safety accessories or extra's. Some of these i would consider a MUST HAVE, others are just for fun(remote bottle opener).

The things I would consider as a must would be a fuel pressure safety switch(stops fuel noid if pressure falls below X) and a window switch which turns the n2o off and on at a given rpm. IE 3-6k, 2800-6500rpms, this prevents you spraying n2o between shifts.

N20 also requires lots of exhaust, it is much denser than air and when injected into the combustion chamber will burn much more air, resulting in much more power. Getting also of this burned air out of the engine becomes essential. So having headers and a cutout makes all the difference.

Hope this helps, i no its random and has lots of spelling errors, Im just too bored at work to do anything else.
Read all the stickes on the top of this section. It will help your understanding of how nitrous works.

mr.green 08-03-2008 01:01 PM

slomaro are you on lt1engine.com too bc that is the Exact same post as someone there

Injuneer 08-03-2008 07:24 PM


I'm really, really thinking of going with NOS.
Call it "N2O". "NOS" is a specific brand of nitrous kits.


Is it expensive to fill?
$3-$5/ pound depending where you live and where you buy it.


Is the power really noticeable?
What's really noticable it the added torque. A 125-shot may give you 180 lb-ft of additional torque, at mid-RPM range. That will put you back in your seat.


Would 75-125 shot be safe on lightly modded Z28?
When installed correctly, it should not cause any problems.


Is NOS dangerous?
US DOT classifies it as non-hazzardous. But it is stored in a very high pressure state. As the temperature increases, the bottle pressure increases. Get it hot enough, and the rupture disc in the safety cap will open up, and you'll dump your $40 worth of nitrous into the atmosphere. You have to vent the bottle outside the passenger compartment for that reason. The bottle also has to be inspected every 5 years (how strongly this is enforced is highly variable from track to track, and among filling stations).

In some states, possession of nitrous may require a permit. In NJ, its treated under controlled dangerous substance (drug) laws, and a permit is required to purchase or possess. "Race Vehicle" is a valid purpose for obtaining a permit.


Originally Posted by slomarao (Post 5468347)
1. im not sure what would be an ideal kit for you since you havent stated what you want out of it. Or provided any info with you intentions.
I would say most likely a wet kit, dry kits are a pain in the ass on lt1's.

You are going to need new plugs for sure. Gap them around .035, a few heat ranges colder than stock. They need the small gap because of the amount of pressure that will be created in the combustion chamber from the n2o. They need to be cooler because the added pressure will create much more heat also.
All the kits that you see between 450-750 dont include any safety accessories or extra's. Some of these i would consider a MUST HAVE, others are just for fun(remote bottle opener).

The things I would consider as a must would be a fuel pressure safety switch(stops fuel noid if pressure falls below X) and a window switch which turns the n2o off and on at a given rpm. IE 3-6k, 2800-6500rpms, this prevents you spraying n2o between shifts.

N20 also requires lots of exhaust, it is much denser than air and when injected into the combustion chamber will burn much more air, resulting in much more power. Getting also of this burned air out of the engine becomes essential. So having headers and a cutout makes all the difference.

The fuel pressure safety switch is used to close the N2O solenoid when the fuel pressure drops too low.... not the fuel solenoid.

I wouldn't go "a few heat ranges colder than stock" until you decide what size shot you are running. Lightly modded and a 75-125 shot should be fine one step down.

slomarao 08-04-2008 03:50 PM

no, I am just so cool everyone wants to copy me.




j/k, no, Im not.



Read all the stickies, very helpful.


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