Well I just got off the phone with NOS tech... More disparities.

He said that running more than 150 hp through a nozzle (so 300 hp through two nozzles) would need an EFI type fuel pressure.

So he said to run a high pressure pump with my setup.

He also said a -6an line from the fuel cell to the fuel pump and then from the pump to the solonoids is enough.

Said to run a bypass regulator and keep it -6an and that no bypass jet is needed.

Said to run a -6an vent line.

Why can't I get a consistant answer? And the sad thing is I trust you guys more than the NOS tech guys...

 

He was referring to the discussion of whether it there was no advantage to running 110 in the fuel cell if you were running a lesser octane in the fuel tank.....as the lesser octane would light off first defeating the purpose of having the higher octane in the fuel cell.

Dave

 

Hmm, I have never thought about that before. I guess that makes sense...

But then why do folks run higher octane on their fuel cells?

I've never heard this theory before. More info please?

 

Whytlie,

On the EFI pump setup, to be honest I feel better about it that way. I've never ran a low pressure tuneup on a single/dual nozzle setup, so that doesn't mean it won't work, just not something I've seen done. Look back at that other thread Dirk referred to and you'll see Matt is using an NX SHO system which is this same way, single nozzle, low Fuel psi. *shrug* my judgement is still out......

As far as contradicting opinions.... Hehe, welcome to the world of nitrous tuning. No one will give you all the same answers as the next guy.

A gallon cell will last longer then many think, but then again I'd check it after every pass. No sense in risking the pickup/sump being uncovered etc. Easiest way to measure actual capacity? Dunno, I'd just use a Milk Gallon Container and a measuring cup, LOL. I'm sure the formulas are somehwre on the web to be found though. The minute I got my diploma I forgot all that stuff. hehe.

As for te mixing of fuels, well, just goes back to different people have different opinions. Personally I prefer to run the same fuel in both tanks. As Dave noted, the lower octane fuel will burn faster/first negating the higher octane you're trying to achieve by mixing fuels. This is just how I feel. Many well known tuners recommend/do it the other way.

I remember Hot Rod Hawk or Matt Swindle once saying something to the nature of:

"All Advice is guaranteed for 10 seconds or 10 feet."

 

One thing I noticed is that most direct port systems use the same foggers as us except they are using very small jets. I would think that 10 psi is plenty enough with the bigger jet to shoot it through the nozzle and atomize correctly. I know that Jordan Musser has ran 225 through a single nozzle setup with a low psi setup so I know it can be done. I will be testing out the 300 jets on mine by the end of the year after a lot of motor and suspension tuning. I would think that dual Nozzles with smaller jets would be more similar to the direct port atomization than a single nozzle with the bigger jets.
Later
Matt

 

I ran a 1-gal cell for my blower, with race gas in it (108). It was a low pressure system going to a pair of PowerShot plates under the carbs (125 each one)
No return on that, -6AN from tank to noids, ran fine. I never made enough passes to see how long it would last, but I know for sure more than 2. Seemed to mix fine with the 93 octane, but all the fuel was going thru the 671.

On the new setup, I will be running one NX nozzle in a high pressure/return setup. -6AN pressure and return, and a small NOS or similar inline pump. I have a -6 vent, with a rollover valve in it, and a loop. The loop in the line keeps the fumes from getting out of the tank. You don't need the jet with a return style regulator.... in the old days peeps would use them with a stock Holley regulator to create a return system to bleed off the dead head pressure.

 

Thanks for the reply texlurch...

Couple questions though.

I don't have enough room at the top of the tank for a rollover valve. And I think this would be a concern of any tech guys (if they ever see/find my cell) incase of a rollover accident. What about my vent going to a overflow tank and the vent on the overflow tank having a rollover valve on it? And without the loops in the vent tube the car will smell of gas when it is hot outside and the pressure pushes the gas fumes out, right? I wonder if one or two loops below the level of the tank would help take care of that? So I would just use longer braided line and loop it a few times before I attach it down low on the body.

What do you mean about using the jets and old school Holley regulators and dead head pressure?

So far I have bought:

1 3/8" NPT female alluminum weld in bung
2 1/4" NPT female alluminum weld in bungs
1 3/8" NPT male to -8an male 90* fitting
2 1/4" NPT male to -6an male 90* fittings
1 -8an fuel filter (dual males)
1 Holley Blue pump with regulator
1 1/4" NPT plug

So the 3/8" NPT bung will be the fuel feed at the bottom of the tank with the 3/8" NPT male to -8an male 90* fitting going to the fuel line to the Earl's -8an fuel filter and then into the Holley Blue pump. The 1/4" NPT bungs will go in the top of the tank and will be a return line and a vent line and the 1/4" NPT male to -6an male 90* fittings will be for attaching braided lines to them. And the 1/4" NPT plug will be for one of the bungs if I don't use a return style fuel system.

So I'll set it all up so I can use it either way and try the returnless style system first. But if I need to go with a return style fuel system I can adapt easily with no drillin/welding. I would just need to get a new FP regulator and some more lines.

Thanks for all the help guys, this is coming together.

Now just to decide if I should run two sets of solonoids and two nozzles or just one set of solonoids and a Y after them into two sets of lines and two nozzles. I think I'll go with two sets of solonoids so I can go to dual stage if I need to.

 

You wouldnt run a jet in the return line on a return style regulator. The jet is typically used on a "holley" style regulator. Very common with nitrous. This is not a return style regulator, so it wants to dead head to a really high pressure when the solenoid is closed. It can also trap air bubbles, which you dont want. Usually you put a small jet in the second outlet of the regulater, to keep the pressure from building, and also to allow any air bubbles to pass on through.
A -6 fuel line for the nitrous will be more then enough. It will supply well over 300hp worth of fuel. I have used a -4 for a 300 shot, but switched it all over to -6 just for safety.