adding nitrous???
ok, i want to put the juice through my car... can i JUST buy the kit:
either:
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=802
or:
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=364&page=1
and slap it on there w/out having to do anything to the engine or its internals? im going to be adding a cam, 52mm throttle body, and headers as well. And how hard is it to do the nitrous install myself, whether it be a dry or wet setup? tks guys...
either:
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=802
or:
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=364&page=1
and slap it on there w/out having to do anything to the engine or its internals? im going to be adding a cam, 52mm throttle body, and headers as well. And how hard is it to do the nitrous install myself, whether it be a dry or wet setup? tks guys...
Nitrous outlet has good kits.. Dave knows his s**t too.
I don't know too much about cam and n2o.
Most kits are almost plug and play. Just READ the instructions and follow them precisely, for the n2o package.
SAFETY equipment should be your MAIN concern.
You should get a fuel safety switch and an RPM window switch. That will do the best job of protecting you engine. Dave offers upgrade kits that include a fuel switch, purge, gauge, blowdown tube and a bottle warmer.(blowdown tube, to stay NHRA legal) The fuel safety switch shuts the system down to prevent an overly lean condition if the fuel pressure takes a dive (that melts pistons, lean=HOT). The window switch makes sure the system is activated at the proper RPM's. Usually 3,000 RPM to 5800rpm. Most people set their switches to 3200-5800rpm. I've hear people say not to use it in first, but some spray out of the hole. I'm still confused on that.
Hope that helps.
I don't know too much about cam and n2o.
Most kits are almost plug and play. Just READ the instructions and follow them precisely, for the n2o package.
SAFETY equipment should be your MAIN concern.
You should get a fuel safety switch and an RPM window switch. That will do the best job of protecting you engine. Dave offers upgrade kits that include a fuel switch, purge, gauge, blowdown tube and a bottle warmer.(blowdown tube, to stay NHRA legal) The fuel safety switch shuts the system down to prevent an overly lean condition if the fuel pressure takes a dive (that melts pistons, lean=HOT). The window switch makes sure the system is activated at the proper RPM's. Usually 3,000 RPM to 5800rpm. Most people set their switches to 3200-5800rpm. I've hear people say not to use it in first, but some spray out of the hole. I'm still confused on that.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Bayer-Z28; Dec 16, 2006 at 08:43 PM.
Both are good vendors. I ordered my actual kit from Nitrous Outlet and I ordered some custom length hoses from Harris. As for the actual install, the mounting and plumbing aspect is very easy. The tricky part is the wiring. Just follow the directions closely and it even helps to draw out your own schematic so you have a better idea of what is going on. As mentioned above, don't go cheap... look into all of the safety gear as well and your motor should live a long and healthy life.
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