I have my NX kit hooked up to a 30 amp relay and the relay keeps going bad? What gives? I had the arming switch on the other day, with the bottle turned off. My Z just flat out died! After seeing my soleniods were hot, turns out my 30 amp relay was bad. I replaced the relay, and today, the car was bogging really bad as I pulled into my drive way. I knew it was getting fuel from the soleniod. Then, it stopped? Put it in the garage, headers were hot! Now, I put a fuse in the positive feed line to the 30amp relay.

The only two things that are different than the stock setup is that my power wire to my arming switch is comming from my other 30 amp relay for my bottle heater. Both 30 amp relays are separate except for the power from the heater 30amp relay to my arming switch. I have my ground on a hobbs switch so I get soleniod activation @ 4psi to limit wheel spin.

Any ideas?

Thank you in advance

 

isnt it a 60 amp relay, ?

 

nope.

 

Are you sure the relays are going bad? Sounds more like you have a short causing it to turn on when it isn't supposed to? What do you have connected to terminals 85 & 86? The hobbs switch to one and the arming switch to the other? How do you trigger the nitrous?

 

Well, sorry about the delay, going to school and i've been really busy! Well, this is what I've found, any help or thoughts on this? 30 goes to the soleniods, 87 power to swithc, 86 gets power, 85 to ground on hobbs switch. A buddy of mine suggested me to check the ohms on the soleniods and they measured zero! ZERO, from what my friend says is that the
"noids" are bad. I've used the gas 4x. The first time I took it out, it was fast. Everytime thereafter, is really was not very fast? I think my niods are bad, They are NX brand, and I've heard they have a life time guarentee? CRaP!

 

Oh my!

30 should be supply high amp 12 v

87a is the load - solinoids high amp 12v

85 is arming switch low amps 12v

86 hobbs ground

Right now your wiring is hosed.

infinate resistance is an open circuit. Some resistance (or zero doubtful) is a closed circuit or operational solinoid windings.

 

Thanks for the info! My buddy who is pretty electronic savy told me how to hook up the relay. My instructions only had a color coded directions and did not have any definition of what terminal when where. Plus, to boot, I've been going a very difficult paramedic program. Needless to say, I've been runing on very VERY little sleep the past year! So I probally messed up the wiring due to not having my witts about me.

Thanks for the help!

 

I believe you meant to say terminal 87? Terminal 87a is the normal closed path and not what you'd want the solenoids on, or they'd be powered anytime the relay is OFF.

Looks to me like 86 and 87 are swapped in Osmosis post...

 

You are absolutely correct, I misspoke. There probably isn't a center terminal on that relay anyhow. Heck some don't even have 87a terminals anymore and others have dual 87s.

 

my terminal does have the center prong, but I have never used it. So what should 87 go to? My soleniods or should 86 go to the soleniods?
86 goes where?
87 goes where?

Thank you!

 

87a is not used in this application and you can just leave it disconnected.

85 and 86 are the coil of the relay...you energize these by putting +12v (typically ignition +12V so the system won't arm when the key is off) on one side, and ground on the other (doesn't matter which is which). When power is applied, the relay activates (clicks). You can add as many safety devices as you like in series with either terminal....once ALL of them meet their requirement (rpm, fuel pressure, WOT, etc.) the relay will activate.

The click you are hearing is actually the isolated terminals 30 and 87 making contact with each other. You can connect anything you like to these. In the case of a nitrous system, you typically connect a constant +12V source (like the battery; be sure to always add a fuse!) to terminal 30 and a solenoid wire to 87. When the relay clicks (because the coil is powered) the +12v source is connected to the solenoid. When the relay is not activated (coil NOT powered) the +12v source is removed from the solenoid. The other wire from the solenoid goes to ground.

 

To totally confuse matters, some relays have two 87 terminals, such as relays you would use for fog lights and nitrous systems. Check the schematic printed on the relay to see how the terminals are called out. If both center terminals are listed as 87's then both solinoids can hook up independently there. If one is listed as an 87a then don't hook anything to that particular terminal.

If all else fails please read and use the manual.

 

On nitrous setups (assuming the relay can handle the amperage draw), I like to hook both solenoids up to the same power wire and both grounds to the same ground. That way if a ground or power wire comes lose, you lose both solenoids and not just one.

 

12Second3rdgen,

How do you set your wiring up for your system? I found an adjustible hobbs switch which I plan to wire up as the micro switch, but I need to find out which direction to turn the hobbs switch to increase or decrease the sensitivity to boost pressure. I was considering using a fuse in the wiring to the soleniods as a safety precaution. I like the way your safety set up sounds and i"m interested in how to set mine up like yours.

 

Boost pressure or fuel pressure? I used butt splices on my old system, definitely solder, I will on my new system.

Run a relay that will support both of your solenoids amp requirements. Shouldn't be much more than 30 amps, not hard to find. You are going to daisy chain your switches- for instance I had a covered toggle switch and a button on my shifter. So I had 12v going into my WOT switch, from my WOT switch to my toggle switch, from my toggle switch to my shifter button, from my shifter button to my relay to 85 on the relay to turn it on (going off markinkc69z's numbers here, I don't have them memorized). I had a heavy gauge wire running straight from the battery to the relay, I think I used #10 or #12 wire to 30 on the relay. On my setup, I grounded my relay to the frame, I think the better way would be to put your FPSS inline with this ground like markinkc69z mentioned. That way if it is not making sufficient fuel pressure, the relay won't even click on.

Now to the solenoids/hobbs switch. I ran one heavy gauge wire from 87 for my solenoids. Splice the power wires together on your solenoids and solder them to this power wire. Splice your ground wires together, solder to a heavy gauge wire and ground them. This way, the solenoids share a common power/ground wire. I think this is the best way to do it, some people use male/female fittings. If your solenoids are wired separate and the ground for your fuel solenoid comes unplugged, boom.

I think this is pretty fool proof. It has been a while, so I might be rusty. Some people like to hook the fpss up inline with the solenoid grounds, I did that last time and it seemed to work fine. However, I like the idea of wiring it with the relay better. Also, some people only run the nitrous solenoid's ground through your FPSS so that it is "smoother". If I am not making the fuel pressure to keep the nitrous system on, I want to know, I like both solenoids on the fpss. Plus you won't foul plugs this way if you make a pass with your fuel solenoid dumping gas.

Let me know if this wasn't confusing enough for you .