Well, to make a long story shorter, I recently put a set of Brute Force heavy duty U-Joints in my stock steel 2.5" LT1 driveshaft in an attempt to "beef it up" a little and now the thing vibrates at vehicle speeds between 70-90 MPH. Sooooooo..... I'm thinking about trying one of those LS1 3" aluminum driveshafts which appear(?) to be better balanced than the LT1 steel shafts.

Anyone local have an F-Body aluminum driveshaft they're looking to sell???

TIA for all replies.

 

umm, you should have looked in the forsale section. lucky for you, I still have it. I dont knw where the heck washington is, but im just west of detroit. I'd like $120 for it picked up. or $130 shipped.

on a side note, are you sure you put the ujoints in properly? as in, after you installed them, did you seat the caps? not that I dont want to sell you my shaft, but that sounds like its what you did. (or didnt do)
I have a alum. shaft out of an 01 TA. one of the other board members cars that I did some warranty work to. if you want the shaft, bring the steel shaft with you and I'll seat the caps for you. kinda hard to explain how to do it. all you need is a hammer and a vise. let me know.
chris

 

Chris, uuuummmmmm hope springs eternal. Maybe I didn't fully seat the new u-joint caps. When I installed the new u-joints I just seated the caps into the front and rear yolks just enough to get those c-clip cap retainers into their slots on the caps. I didn't think(?) the caps should be forced down any further because I didn't want the "cross" to seat (i.e. rub) against the bottom (inside) of the cap itself. If I get time this weekend, I'll pull the driveshaft out again and check that. Thanks for the tip!

On the other note, do you know how many miles are on that aluminum 01 TA driveshaft you have? Is it a complete shaft with the front tranny yolk and both u-joints? Keep in mind I'm thinking about trying the aluminum shaft because of a vibration problem. Do you know if there were any vibration problems with the driveshaft you have for sale?

Thanks for the reply,

Ken

 

the drive shaft is from me and it has around 28k on it,and it is in perfect condition.

 

yeah its perfect. and complete ready to slip in.
as for your ujoints, yo uhave to seat them OUT not in after you have the clips in. that takes all the press. off the bearings and will allow them to rotate smoothly. if you take it out, move the joints. more then likely it will be very stiff. thats what Im guessing. it should be very smooth and easy to move when brand new. let me knmow if you want it though. if I dont hear back from you that you want it tonight, I'll repost it on the forsale forum.
chris

 

Chris, thanks again for that tip on correctly seating those U-Joint caps. I will definately remove and double check my current driveshaft this weekend. I do know that the vibration problem first started at the same time I did replace the U-Joints so you may have indeed "hit the nail right on the head" with this diagnosis.

Please do go ahead and re-list your aluminum driveshaft in the For Sale section. I fully understand that you are trying to sell your driveshaft and not just help me with my problem. If after re-setting and/or replacing those U-Joints again, the problem persists, I'll get back with you to see if you may still have your driveshaft for sale?

Thanks AGAIN for all the info.

Ken

 

Hey Chris I just thought of something after realizing your username is IrocSS85!!! I have two(2) BRAND NEW (still in there boxes) 16"x8" Iroc OEM GM aluminum road wheels which have NEVER been mounted. These wheels are easily worth more than $60 a piece (i.e. well over $120 total). Would you consider a straight up trade for that 01 TA aluminum driveshaft???

Let me know.

Ken

 

nah, no use for them. I have some draglites. those would be worth a couple hundred ea. to the right person. problem is finding them.

 

Chris, please check your PM's.

 

I want that drive shaft if its still available and will work in 97 lt1 w/4l60E!!!
I live in clawson, and work in detroit! Can pick up anyday!!!!