I have a 6''rod 381 all forged and will be spraying. is a solid roller cam ok for street/race car??? My car will be drivin around 300 miles a week and i will be spraying the hell out of it . I know solid roller cams make more power but WILL THIS CAM BE RELIABLE FOR STREET USE?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-o...em220089558134

Thanks,
Tommy

 

okay, solid roller cams need a bit more maitenance than hydraulic roller cams, I know u have to set valve-lash with SR cams, im not sure how often though
im pretty sure thats a small-cam for a SR setup too

please correct me if im wrong, but i believe SR setups gain power by being able to rev higher, and have more lift than HR cams, ive seen HR cams bigger than that SR cam...

 

You have to change your valve springs every 3,000 miles from what I hear...

 

Solid roller cams make more power within the same power band as a hydraulic cams because of the steeper ramp rates. And, of course, they make more power by being able to rev higher than standard hydraulic camshafts too. You don't have to change your springs every 3000 miles but you should check your lash at minimum, every other oil change.

Your cam should match your heads and the rest of your engine so I can't tell you whether that cam is right for you or not. You should talk to your engine builder or your head porter about the best matched cam for your setup.

 

A car that's driven 300 miles per week is not a solid roller car. Ask Denny Mclain.

 

absolutely not why would you do that r u gonna rev that bitch to moon it aint worth it but if ya want to do it just my two cents

 

I wouldn't run that 300 miles a week....I wouldn't run Ti retainers 300 miles a week either

 

You can't use that cam in a LT1 so don't even worry about it. That guy doesn't realize the difference in a LT and SBC cam.

Bret

 

In order to take full advantage of a solid roller cam, you would have to have aftermarket heads that flow a lot better than stock. My example is my set up that is currently being ported. I have the stock heads and they are being ported "to the max". In order to use a solid roller, I would have to add almost $1000 in parts to gain only about 10 horsepower.

So, in my case, the SR is not going to happen until I also get new heads.

 

huh? that one guy (i can't remember names for anything) has a 355 with stock castings that have been ported by AI with a ported intake and he put down like 490 something to the ground with his SR setup. am i misreading your post or something?

 

And Denny McLain will tell you to have a cell phone in one hand and a cross in the other just in case something bad happens.

 

I am not going solid roller now. I know all about old school sbc stuff but nothing about fuel injected stuff. This will be my last build for a efi car. I can get just as much power out of old school sbc with out headach or spending a fortune on tb injectors cam etc. I just want to get my ta finished and out of the way.

I started a pole with my cam selection so give me some input on what cam you like with my set up.

Thanks for all of the help,
Tommy

 

Well, tell us in detail what your setup is going to be and we will do our best.

Omg, I almost fell out of my chair!

 

why what catastrophe occured?

 

Needed new lifters, new cams, one new block and two stroker rebuilds. Besides that......not much.

Personally could not get solid rollers to live in stop n go driving. Maybe it was just me but I was very **** about adjustment of lifters and would adjust them every single time before going to the track. Heard it was idleing that killed them. Dunno??