When installing crane gold 1.6 roller rockers, do you use any of the original rocker?
 

I got the crane gold 1.6 roller rockers I'm trying to install and it doesn't seem like they are installing quite right. I got the tall black nuts that hold the rocker down around the stud and the pushrods, that's it. Do I need to use those things that go below the rockers themselves (the things that slide over the stud and the rocker goes on it from the original rockers) or do I just install how I already am with just the crane rockers, black nuts and pushrods?

http://f.imagehost.org/0983/DSCF0067.jpg

You can see, I can't even get one of the tall black nuts on one of the rockers just because the stud doesn't come out from the rocker enough... The others vary in length coming out of the rocker.

Crap - mods I posted this in LS1 section on accident. Please move to LT1 section!

Wrong forum. It shall be moved.

No you get rid of the part underneath the stud that the old stamped rocker sat on.

You should just install rocker arm and poly lock.

That's because the engine needs to be rotated until that particular lobe on the camshaft closes the valve. At that point, the stud will be visible. Do a search on this message board for the "Exhaust open/Intake closed" or "EOIC" method of adjusting the valves. If you don't feel like getting into that, I suggest that you get someone who has successfully experienced a valve adjustment procedure to walk you through it in person. It's not all that difficult but you can get yourself into some serious problems if you do it right wrong.

Good luck,

c

It also looks like the rocker shafts may be upside down. Some have a flat spot, and that end goes up toward the retainer. Hard to tell by the picture though

I noticed that too.

The trunion on the rocker has a flat spot that the rocker nut wedges into. The rolled round side faces down.

Ok guys, I got this. I think we can say the "Zero Lash" and how tight to make it is a matter of opinion (1/4, 1/2, 1 Full) and I'll worry about finding the median of suggestions later on. As far as the valve adjustments, I got and read through the Haynes book and it says to put the engine at Top Dead Center, you do this by pointing the arrow on the harmonic balancer up - and It explains at TDC, you can tighten both intake and exhaust rockers on Cylinder 1. It also explains you can adjust the number two, five and seven intake valves and the number three, four and eight exhaust valves at this time. After adjusting these valves, turn the crankshaft one complete revolution (360 degrees) and adjust the number three, four, six and eight intake valves and the number two, five, six and seven exhaust valves. If this is right, then this totally makes sense and it shouldn't take me longer than an hour to do at most. My only question, just to be 100% sure is, which cylinders are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8? I would assume driver side front is #1, then the front passenger side is #2, the cylinder behind #1 is #3, behind #2 is #4 and so on...

Also - thanks to both of you for pointing this out before it was too late! I did even notice the difference.

Rear of engine
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Front of engine

Ok, thanks. That's what I thought :cool:

I have *always* done the single cylinder at a time procedure. When the exhaust begins to open, you lash the intake. When the intake opens all the way up and is almost closed again, you do the exhaust. 1/4 turn preload, that's all.

This is the most sure-fire, fool-proof way of lashing valves.

thats the way i did it

this is the way that worked best for me:thumb:

Got the Rockers on and tightened with those procedures. I did notice when I was turning the motor over from the crank, obviously compression builds up when you do that, I heard at the compression stroke air leaking out like a "pshhh" coming from the intake manifold. Is that normal for the LT1? Also, are the push rods suppose to be able to spin if you try to spin them hard enough with your fingers after tightening them?

Dont focus so much on spinning the push rod, but more on when the up and down slack go away. Right when there is not any slack left then you are at 0 lash. Then you can adjust pre load.

Just remember that if you go past 0 lash by accident, back off poly lock all the way and let the lifter expand again.

What method did you wind up using?