I have done several searches for cam upgrade that will work with stock heads and have not found alot. Mostly came up with the LT4 hot cam.
Not saying that is a bad cam at all but is there other choices. In fact I have heard alot of good things about that cam.

I know I will have to upgrade valve springs and all. My mods are in my sig.

Thanks

 

Hotcam, XE502, XE503, CC305 on a 112LSA. Search for some of those and you'll find a lot of reading. All good stock head daily driver camshafts. Depends on your wants and needs for the car, drivibility, budget, etc.

-Dustin-

 

Going to want a stall converter also cost me around. $1100
a guy suggested these to me. 224/230 , 108Lsa , .600/.600
this is also next on my list of things to **** the girlfriend off. lol she hates my old car

 

Thanks all.

I am leaning towards the CC305.

 

He's got a stick car and a nice aftermarket torque converter should not cost $1100 unless it's a billet cover triple disk for a diesel truck. Edge and Precision Industries make good converters well under that price range.

Of the 4 camshafts I listed the CC305 would be last or next to last, like the option I would use if I got the cam for $50 or something. The XE series cams are a nice off the shelf street cam design, and I'd suggest those first, then the Hotcam and CC305. The last two are not horrible camshafts, but if you're buying all the parts to match brand new you might as well go with the XE right out of the gate. XFI cams are also available, but I've never used one in my own car. Some people love em, others do not.

I've started a daily driver camshaft thread a year or so ago, you may want to search for that, it gives alot of info on camshafts in this size. I ran a Hotcam for a while, then went to a XE503.

-Dustin-

 

The 1100 was for the stall converter some kind of seal ?? installation , a trans cooler
and I bought the good stuff !! I will have to check your thread out cause I need all the help
I can get. sorry I missed the M6 in his signature and left out some details

I looked threw some bills total was 1,197.53

 

I assume the XE503 is the CC503. If so, I've got one and have been pleased with the performance on stock heads. You need all the supporting intake and exhaust mods to get the most out of it(cold air intake and long tube headers).

 

When researching cams understand Comps rpm ranges are much lower than reality.

The 305 on a 114 is just stupid, too wide a LSA compromises power for a stock like idle, go smaller duration rather than the stupidly wide LSA. Might be good for a turbo car but a joke for an NA one.

The 224/230 108 .600 lift is going to need fairly frequent valve spring changes will stink like raw fuel and be pretty lumpy. It may make good power though but without seeing the actual lobe profile a 224 cam with .600 lift is pretty friggin aggressive for the street. A lot of guys run similar lift once they get up into 228+duration cams but more duration means a longer ramp to get the valve open that far so it isn't as aggressive.

If it is the Bauer cam I think it is that thing can kill a $200 set of valvesprings in 2000miles and IMO is a BIG part of why Lloyd went and found actual professional help with his cams. Lloyd gave away a lot of springs and some cams trying to help clean up the mess Bauer created selling that cam for the street.

 

What do you guys think about the ZZ3 cam ???

 

Comp Cams XE 224/236 112 LSA, .536/.555 lift

This grind isn't cataloged, but you should be able to get it from Thunder or Texas Speed if you call them and ask for it.

Before this cam I dynoed 295/330 with headers/exhaust and CAI.

After this cam with 1.6 rockers/springs, hardened pushrods and a good dyno tune, I dynoed 358/370 peaking at 6100 rpm with the pill set at 6500. Good driveability with very little surge and tons of low end and midrange, in fact it gave up nothing to the stock cam anywhere on the tach. It makes as just as much power as a CC306 with stock heads without the need to rev the motor high and lose low-end driveability.

 

I used it for a few years and liked it well enough but these days I wouldnot use it again.
It was so mild that when I had cats on the car people would mistake it for stock. It is barely a step up from the f-body cam.

If you wanted something very mild the Lingenfelter 211/219 cam is a proven performer.

 

Dwayne

Based on my combo in my sig what cam would u pick for my car. Engine internals are stock. Goal is to get the most bang I can with a cam and valve spring change wthout going over the stock LT1 rpm limit. Dont care if it really has a lope to it, just want it to go. It runs real strong now for what has been done already. Thanks.

 

If your not willing to spin the engine any higher then the stock rev limiter then im not so sure an aftermarket cam is for you. i have a very very mild cam on stock size rockers and it still pulls just a tad past 6000rpm

 

How does that cc304 cam pull? Is the power increase noticeble? I would be ok spinning the engine to 6K. Just dont want to go any higher with a stock bottom end.

 

Just stick with the stock cam and upgrade your valve train. My car pulls right up to 6000 and levels off at 6200. Shifting at 6000 produces the best results for me.