What do you think of the Sealed Power LT-1 Rebuild kit that Summit Sells?
 

I am thinking of rebuilding an Lt-1 shortblock that i have, has anybody used this?

:alert: i am considering going with that same set up, but i'd like to get the opinion of others on the site :alert:

If you look at the long run its really not such a great idea.

You save several hundred on that kit, but your machine shop bill is going to be almost the same. You will pay to have your stock rods and crank checked, probably turn the stock crank, then balance it all with some VERY heavy sealed power pistons.

If you blew your motor, wanted to sell it, and had a buddy at the machine shop I would say go for it. I looked at this kit for a long time, but when I finally spun 2 rod bearings I decided I didn't want to dump money into rebuilding a stock bottom end back to stock.

I am going with the kit and I think its a great deal. I also picked up some forged rods from Scat to go with it. It comes with all the gaskets and bearings that you need as well and saves you some money. I think someone has mentioned before that you can upgrade to the Mahle pistons and rings for an extra $200 if I remember correctly.

good info guys, thanks, anybody else have some input?

i called summit to see if they'd let me substitute any other (lighter) pistons, and the only option they gave me was another piston sealed power makes, part # TRW-LW-2256F30 (the LW means light weight). they're not that much lighter and i don't like the fact that they too have 4 valve reliefs just like the TRW-L2256F30 pistons.

when i do order this kit i might have to just sell the pistons it comes w/ and buy another manufacturer's piston.

bottom end
Federal Mogul Engine Rebuild Kits

FEM-CSMHP766-311 $559.95

FEM-CSMHP766-300 $559.95
which contains:
FEM-4663M - Main Bearings, Full Groove, Standard Size, Tri Metal, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 5
SLP-E-251K030 - Piston Rings, Moly, 4.030 in. Bore, 5/64 in., 5/64 in., 3/16 in. Thickness, 8-Cylinder, Set of 8
SLP-224-43469V - Oil Pump, High-Volume, Chevy, Small Block
SLP-260-1650 - Full Gasket Set, Chevy Small Block Gen II, Set
SLP-55403B - Assembly Lubricant, for Camshaft Break-In, 1.5 oz.
TRW-L2256F30 - Piston, Forged, Flat Top, 4.030 in. Bore, 5/64 in., 5/64 in., 3/16 in. Ring Grooves, Chevy, 350
FEM-1235M - Cam Bearings, Direct Replacement, Tin-Based Babbit, B-100, Chevy, Kit
PIO-830001 - Freeze Plug Kit, Brass, Chevy, Small Block, 267-350, Kit
FEM-2555CP - Rod Bearing, Standard Size, Tri Metal, Chevy, Small Block
SLP-SPG1 - Plastigauge, Green Kit, 0.001 in.-0.003 in. Clearance Range

Well I was almost ready to order the kit, but then changed my mind. If you look at the kit with the forged pistons they are not for the gen2 LTX motors, they are for the gen1 motors and have the piston skirt and are a heavy piston. You can also go to autozone and get the topend gasket set from Fel Pro (better quailty than sealed power IMHO) for $150 and the oil pan gasket set for $30. Then add a high volume oil pump for $40 and you machinist that you should take your block into to get cleaned up can install new cam bearings and freeze plugs for almost nothing. And remember if you were planning on buying the kit with hyperutectic pistons that they are lower compression than stock. A stock LT1 has 10.4:1 compression and the kit has 9.9:1. Please orrect me if I'm wrong

Heres the break down from my machinist granted he is going to be alot cheaper than some guys but he does really good work...

Remove Freeze Plugs & Cam Bearings, Remove All Plugs In Block, Hot tank Block, Clean The Water & Oil Passages Again With Brushes After Hot Tank, Put All Plugs Back In Block, Install New Freeze Plugs & Cam Bearings, & Paint My Block $130 thats including the cost of the freeze plugs and cam bearings

He is also going to pressure check my heads and make sure that they are straight $70 for both

Fit new pistons on my old rods $55

Bore & Align Hone My Block $160

And Balance My Rotating Assembly $??? I don't know yet LOL

There are alot of little thing that you don't realize when you rebuilding a motor and the cost adds up fast. You can buy a rotating assembly for $750 and have a good stout short block but from my research the stock bottom end in the LT1s seem to be capable of holding up to some decent power #s. But remember that you should add new hardware everywhere, new rod bolts, new head bolts, and new main bolts for a little piece of mind.

Heres the link to the forged pistons that come in the Summit Kit, notice they are for gen1 small blocks......http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=32&N=700+115

Most gen1 crap works in our motors.

I am no expert, but one lesson I have learned over the years is the cheaper the parts the more it usually takes to balance them. Removing weight is easy, if they have to add weight because of heavy pistons it gets really expensive. My shop told me that one slug of the metal costs the customer @ $400. My srp pistons and eagle assymbly only needed metal removed.

Good catch on those being gen 1 pistons, i was thinking of going with the forged set, and buying set of scat rods, now i am not to sure, I need to do more research. Thanks for all the info guys!

I'm sure that they will work, but I didn't want to take a chance and have them not work.

If your planning on getting new rods check these guys out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-CH...mZ230112783885

I emailed them a couple of times and they are very promt to get back to you and can answer your questions.

You can also get the oil pump and gaskets at autozone for the same price or less than summit. My brother quoted me about $175 for a complete Fel Pro gasket set and another $40 for a Melling oil pump. The maching shop will be able to get and install the cam bearings and freeze plugs probably cheaper than you can just buy them so I would just let them worry about those.

I chose not to do the 383 because of the clearence issues with the block and possibly the oil pan, and so on. Personally I think the stock crank and rods with good studs and bolts will hold up to what I will put it through, but I guess I'll find out in a month or so. :D

I would do the 383 if I were you. The clearancing issues are very minor with a 3.75" stroke. I run a 3.8" stroke and a std bore (382ci) and had very minor clearance issues as well. Had to dimple the factory windage tray and the pan at one point, minor clearancing of the rod bolts near the block, and that was it with another .050" stroke. Very easy.

If you are very worried about it, 12 point rod bolt nuts would help more. I'd get scat capscrew 6" rods, a cast internally balanced crank, and those TRW's and you will be fine N/A. That should get you pretty decent clearance. I had to take out about the same thickness as a credit card so all you gotta do it test-fit.

And no I didnt need a small base circle cam with the 3.8" stroke.

if you want to do a 383 but are afraid to just because of the clearancing, I would still do it. All it requires is a test-fit of the components before assembly. In a 383 the rods have more to do with clearance than the stroke.

mallory metal costs about 25$ an ounce, on those heavy pistons on an Lt1 crank it took about 4 ounces to balance with the initial 150 that made it 250 to balance. I built another LT1 motor for friend and his crank was toast so we used a 350 crankfrom a TBI motor from a pick-up, it used 1/4 of the weight.

Oh I forgot to add, Ibuilt a 79 SBC using the LT1 rods and pistons with an early 305 crank...lol, it balanced up with minor changes.

That is a great deal on the EBAY 383 kit, its already balanced, i can use my damper, i will just need to get my flywheel nuetral balanced, i am going to make an effort to find a local machine shop to do the machine work.