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Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by GaryDoug
(Post 7014561)
Do you mean that the starter ran while doing that or do you mean that the starter operated normal after that?
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Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by GaryDoug
(Post 7014561)
Do you mean that the starter ran while doing that or do you mean that the starter operated normal after that?
Could that little wire thats a little bare in the pic coming off the starter have anything to do with whats going on? |
Re: Vats system
The bare wire is the purple 12 volt input to the solenoid. With a VATS problem (key or theft deterrent relay) that wire would not be hot with the key in the “START” position. You were trying to connect the 12 volts from the main cable from the battery to the starter (the heavy black wire on the stud to the left) to the stud in the center for the solenoid. A spark may have damaged the purple wire.
But that places the jack handle very close to the PCM ground stud. And the ground wires and the purple solenoid wire are in the same harness bundle, along with the knock sensor and right bank O2 sensor wires. I'm just GUESSING somehow 12 volts hit the ground stud and back-fed the PCM, damaging it. Or it simply burned through the thin PCM ground wires. You definitely need to examine the ground stud and the wires for signs of damage. Then try and scan the PCM to see if it’s still functioning. |
Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by Injuneer
(Post 7014568)
The bare wire is the purple 12 volt input to the solenoid. With a VATS problem (key or theft deterrent relay) that wire would not be hot with the key in the “START” position. You were trying to connect the 12 volts from the main cable from the battery to the starter (the heavy black wire on the stud to the left) to the stud in the center for the solenoid. A spark may have damaged the purple wire.
But that places the jack handle very close to the PCM ground stud. And the ground wires and the purple solenoid wire are in the same harness bundle, along with the knock sensor and right bank O2 sensor wires. I'm just GUESSING somehow 12 volts hit the ground stud and back-fed the PCM, damaging it. Or it simply burned through the thin PCM ground wires. You definitely need to examine the ground stud and the wires for signs of damage. Then try and scan the PCM to see if it’s still functioning. |
Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by shayhenderson88
(Post 7014569)
I wasn't trying to jump anything with the jack handle i was just tapping on the solenoid in case it was stuck.
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Re: Vats system
I gave you a link to the ground stud photo in post #13…… didn’t you look at it?
Whyever or wherever you were randomly poking around with a jack handle, there's a chance you did electrical damage or mechanical damage. Shorting the 12 volts from the battery to the solenoid is generally done with a screwdriver to bypass the ignition switch. |
Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by Injuneer
(Post 7014571)
I gave you a link to the ground stud photo in post #13…… didn’t you look at it?
Whyever or wherever you were randomly poking around with a jack handle, there's a chance you did electrical damage or mechanical damage. Shorting the 12 volts from the battery to the solenoid is generally done with a screwdriver to bypass the ignition switch. |
Re: Vats system
Well…. that was about the best I could come up with. Maybe someone else will have a better idea.
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Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by Injuneer
(Post 7014573)
Well…. that was about the best I could come up with. Maybe someone else will have a better idea.
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Re: Vats system
"Then try and scan the PCM to see if its still functioning."...do it.
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Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by GaryDoug
(Post 7014577)
"Then try and scan the PCM to see if it’s still functioning."...do it.
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Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by shayhenderson88
(Post 7014578)
I've been trying to find someone local to scan it for me but haven't had any luck.
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Re: Vats system
Originally Posted by GaryDoug
(Post 7014583)
You have a car that is "special". Unfortunately or descriptively that means it requires special treatment. You can buy a cloned Tech 2 from China for about $300 (takes a few weeks) ... or you can buy a scanner that can do some diagnostics... for about $400 (CP9185) ... or you can buy an ALDLcable.com scanner cable for about $80 with shipping and tax and use my app on your pc for free. If you don't think it is worth it, I hope you sell the car to someone who does.
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