I just ordered me a new set of lt4 valve springs, retainers, keys, and shims. Does anyone know an easier way of installing them without having to either take off the heads or hook up the air compresser? I don't even care if it is more time comsuming. I just don't want to have to by an air compresser right now. And, I'm new to the area and I don't know anyone that has one.

Thanks,
Jason

 

turn the motor to Top Dead Center on the #1 cylinder, this will also be TDC on #6 (turn the motor so the arrow on the balancer is pointing straight up, this is TDC on #1). you can do the springs on #1 and 6 then. when you pull the keepers the valve will only drop about 1/4" and will sit on the piston, leaving you plenty of room to install the spring on the valve. after you do #1 and 6, turn the arrow on the balancer 90* clockwise, then do #s 8 and 5, then turn 90* so its pointing straight down and do 4 and 7, then another 90* (pointing straight to the passenger side) and you can do #3 and 2

 

That's awsome! Thanks a lot. I think that will save me a lot of time and a little bit of money.

Thanks,
Jason

 

That method surely works, but you should double check something when you do the very first valve.

When you remove the first valve spring, the oil seal will generally hold the valve up. Grab the end of the stem (don't let go) and push the valve down until you feel it hit the piston. This is to verify that the mark you are using on the hub is correctly positioned on the crank. Since the crank is not keyed, the hub can move on the crank, which would make the mark inaccurate.

If you trust the mark and it is wrong, you could lose a valve down into the cylinder. Checking the first valve could save you a big headache.

 

To add to shoebox's instructions another way to make sure you have TDC on the #1 chamber is to pull the spark plug and stick your pinky finger in the hole. When you turn the crankshaft the compression should blow you finger out with some force.

 

I was wondering about the hub on the moving on the crank thing. I wasn't really sure how it was on there. And, that's a great idea about the pinky finger. I didn't even think about that. I love this page. Thanks a lot for your help guys.

Jason

 

Myself, I dont like that method. When u do it like that it makes getting the keeper back on a pita!! That 1/4 that the valve falls is just enough to not get the keepers on, or thats the prob. I ran into anyways. I guess it depends on springs? not sure. I installed the combomotorsports double springs and could barely get them on using air and a spring compressor. Just my 2 cents worth anyways, I prefer air, it would suck to have to pull the head just trying to save time. while we are on the subject, the spring compressor I used, KD small screw type, would not catch the inner spring. Does anyone make one with longer jaws to catch that inner spring? I ghettoed mine, I used metal tie straps to hold the springs together, once I got em on I just cut the straps. It sounds stupid I know, but it worked

 

You pull the valve back up so it is closed and the seal holds it there. I would not try doing it, leaving the valve sitting on the piston, because of just what you said.

 

didnt even think bout the seal holding it into place, thats why u are the man Shoe!!. But, I still think the air is safer, more trouble but safer IMO.

 

well, yeah i was assuming he wouldnt just let the valve drop without lowering it manually to see that it stops on the piston first. for the LT4 springs this method works fine with a screw type compressor. as for the seals holding the valve, my teflon seals hold my valve in place with the retainer off, but when i did the springs on my car when it had the stock 90k mile heads, and also when i did springs on another car with the stock seals, the seals did not hold the valves in place at all. they dropped freely. i have also installed a set of crane 10308 springs this way

now days i have to pull the heads or engine to change my springs

 

If you are chaining out seats you will have to remove the valve stem seal, which creates a problem.

With mine i used a really small pair of vice grips (not tight!!!!) just tight enough to hold the vlave, but not gripping it hard. That ensured the valve stayed up while i pulled the seals, and swapped seats/shims. Then i put the seals back on, and grabbed the valve with my fingers. Pulling up on it pretty hard, and rotating it slightly, you can get it stuck a little in the head, and it will hold itself up. Be careful not to bump it when putting on the spring or you will knock it lose and it will quickly slide down into the cylinder.

 

I've used a K-D spring compressor before. It is better than some, but definitely a poor choice for dual springs. Use a Moroso spring compressor 62370 for about $60. It works well with dual springs and you can reach all 16 valves in an F-body. That sucker rules!