I have gone over this a few times in the passed week, and am at my wits end. I have gone over Shoe's guide, and have tried a few different settings. I am running CC Promag 1.6 rr on 7/16th studs with Comp R lifters. I still hear constant clicking from the valve train after adjusting.

I am using a remote starter switch, and adjusting one cylinder at a time. I am watching the intake valve open, then adjusting the Exhaust. After the intake closes and the exhaust opens, I adjust the intake.

While adjusting, I am backing off the lock 3 turns and loosening the poly lock. I then spin the push rod with one hand while tightening the poly lock. When I feel drag on the rod I stop. At this point I have tried 3 different methods.

1. No preload, tightened lock and moved to the next valve
2. 1/8th turn preload, then tightened the lock and moved to the next valve
3. 1/4 turn preload, then tightened the lock and move to the next valve

What seems odd to me is that the least noticeable clicking was with no preload. Which with the noise I am hearing I think would be worse.

 

The spinning pushrod method isn't the most effective. I like doing it with the engine running to make sure the lifters aren't bleeding down. I guess you read the Comp R lifter sticky at the top of this forum, too?

 

I also think you might want to do it with the engine running. It doesn't make much of a mess as you would think.

 

The Comp R lifters require very little preload.

 

I like the idea of doing it with the engine running, but I thought there was a ton of oil that shot out through the push rods?

Do I need to work about oil dripping from the bottom of the heads?

Yes I did read the Comp R sticky. I pulled 1/2 of the push rods out looking for any signs of bending. I also looked into the lifter valley and did not see any failed lifters.

 

Are you sure the clicking you are hearing might not be from the pushrods touching the guideplates. Some people have had that problem, due to their particular setup.

 

I guess it could be. If it was the guide plates though, would the adjustment of the valves cause more or less noise?

 

If you do it with the engine running, make a piece of cardboard about the length and height of the valve cover and sit it down in there to catch the oil and let it drain back on to the head. Works very well to not make a mess. I've never been able to do the engine running method without much success because of all the other chattering valves and the back ones are difficult enough to get to without all the rockers bouncing.

 

Impossible to say. You will have to look at it to determine...

 

spin the pushrod almost always results in far too tight. Move the pushrod vertically between the rocker and lifter till all the play is gone. This will be right about when the poly lock contacts roller rockers.

 

I just wanted to stop by to say thank you to everyone for the help. I was able to adjust the engine while running, with only minor burns >.> I had to wait between sides because of the heat.

Anyhow, the valve train was making a ton of noise when I got the covers off. I started by loosening #2 and #4's locks and watched as it ran to see if it would noticeably loosen. After a minute I stopped the car and loosened all of the locks. Started it again and adjusted each valve.

Driving it I think i may have been a bit tight on some of them, but I wanted to get more than a few miles on it before I tore everything apart. I get a bit of cam surge when not WOT. Anyhow, thank you again to everyone