wideglide2011

so doe s my 1997 z28 lt1 have a key in the crank hub/snout???? how do you make sure the snout is reinstalled in the correct position??? i'm resealing the timimg cover .

shoebox

The only key in the crank is to locate the crank sprocket for the timing set. There is a slot forward of it that is not used on the LT1. The crank hub has no keyway. The hub can be put on in any position (because the harmonic damper is neutrally balanced), but if you are like me, I like to have the pointer on the damper pointing properly (12 o'clock is #1 or #6). You can judge how to put the hub on by looking inside. You should see a shadow line where the keyway slot was residing. Or you can find 1 or 6 TDC and install the hub with the cast line at 12 o'clock.

http://shbox.com/1/keyway2.jpg

Injuneer

The damper hub is an interference fit to the crank snout. Alignment is not critical, because the pulley that bolts to the hub is a "damper" and not a balancer. The stock crank snout has a keyway, but the pulley/damper does not. There is an arrow on the hub that relates to TDC, so it's always a good idea to align the arrow with TDC as best you can. And the pulley/damper can only be bolted on the hub one way, because the arms of the hub are not equally spaced.

If you are going to drive a supercharger with the stock hub, having a keyway cut in the hub is a good idea, so you can key it to the crank and prevent it from slipping. There are aftermarket hubs available with a keyway.

Injuneer

I guess I shouln't have got sidetracked while typing my response. As usual, Rob/Shoebox has it covered.

wideglide2011

thanks guys. injuneer/shoebox. you guys are becoming my go to resource. thanks again.

wideglide2011

would it be advisable to use an impact when removing the crank snout bolt?????

shoebox

No harm in using one, but you don't have to. Since your sig indicates you have a 6 speed, put the trans in a high gear to keep the engine from turning during removal/install.

wideglide2011

hey i got in a hurry removing my timimg cover and i forgot to loosen my pan bolts. the cover came off pretty easy.do you think i damaged anything??? the pan seal came off with the cover by the way.

shoebox

Then the pan seal is compromised. The pan seal is one piece. It is not supposed to come off with the timing cover. Getting it to reseal is iffy without replacing the whole pan seal (which won't be easy). Getting the pan off with the engine in the car is difficult. People have managed to remove all the bolts and snake a new seal in and around the oil pump, though. Make sure to remove the low oil sensor before trying to lower the whole pan or you will break the sensor.

Maybe a previous owner had the cover off and had cut the seal? Lots of RTV may get it to reseal, but don't count on it.

wideglide2011

thanks shoebox. I've got to try to replace the entire oil pan seal. sounds like removing the oil pan is only possible with the engine removed. thanks again...

Muncie4sp

I just went through all this a couple weeks ago. Just get a new one piece oil pan gasket and slip it around the oil pan into place. RTV all four corners and you're good to go. Be sure to clean/remove the old gasket carefully not to drop it inside the pan.