Torquing Head Bolts????
 

Hey guys...this is killin me. I'm putting my motor together and everything now is.....22in. lbs. then 76 degress crap. Doesn't anyone just make it standard anymore. Is there a conversion for this or what. Gotta put my heads on thursday.

thanks.

what? dude what kinda torque wrench are u using? To torque head bolt's you have to do it in like 3 steps. like 20, 40 and the finally 65ft lbs.

go buy a different torque wrench :D

He's talking about the Hayne's/Chilton's manual assembly guidelines that use an angle finder to put bolts at final torque.

The general consensus is that this is a PITA to do. You can safely go from EDIT: 20-40-65 ft lbs (in steps). A quick search will back that up... although it's kinda weird because people abbreviate torque in 10 million different ways here.

The book I've got about rebuilding LT1/LT4 engines is pretty detailed, and recommends the angle-finder tool. If you can get ahold of one for next to nothing, go for it. If not, the typical method above will work fine.

No man.....I was just cruising through a repair manual and it says......... Step 1................................22 in. lbs.
Step 2, short bolts................turn an additional 67 degrees
Step 3, medium and long bolts....add. 80 degrees.

Ohhhhh ok sorry man I was like what the heck? :D

Yea i've seen that too, don't even sweat that crap :rolleyes:

here check THIS PAGE out... That's all you need right there :thumb:

Cylinder Head Bolt
88nm
65 ft lbs
780 in lbs
Tighten in 3 passes
So I alway's go 20, 40 and then finally 65 ft lbs :thumb:

thanks guys......thats what I needed.

Hey Injected......will those torque specs work the same for my 97???? I mean....is everything basically the same.

Use 20, 40, and finish at 65 ft/lbs. DO NOT start at 45 ft/lbs, aluminum heads warp easier than cast. Make sure you use thread sealant (stock replacements from GM already have it on them) and watch torque specs on other bolts closely. Some are in ft/lbs and some are in INCH/lbs. I almost tightened the intake to 70ft/lbs on the first pass.... :eek: :eek:

Brad

Also 20-40-65 is fine for 97's.

If you are using standard TTY (torque to yield) bolts, you should follow the guidelines for turning them in degrees. If you are using ARP or some other aftermarket bolts, you can probably use the older torque values.

TTY bolts are not meant to be reused. They stretch a certain amount during tightening. These bolts and the method of tightening them is supposed to be more precise and give more uniform clamping.

Hey Shoebox....are you saying that I could've reused the stock bolts???? If so thats the first time I've heard that. Thanks

I did a lot of research when I was doing my LT4 conversion. Seems GM changed to the TTY bolts in 96+.

I looked all over for a torque angle meter, couldn't find one. So I got stock fel pro bolts for a 94, torqued them down to spec and it runs great.

I was in autozone the other day, and they have a degree meter in the tool aisle for $15! It holds on to something near the bolt you are tightening, the just watch the dial. Kinda cheesy, but would do the job just fine.

good luck man.

I was warned about using washers on the aluminum heads, but didn't need them w/ shouldered bolts. The bolts I got were shouldered, but they still bit in to the aluminum.

Well if the stock ones are reusable then I'll be bummed because I just shelled out some cash for ARP bolts. Oh well.

Well, no, I said they were not to be reused. :confused:

ARP supplies torque specs with their bolts. The specs are different for steel or aluminum. They're also different for what you coat the threads with. I used ARP sealant and lube, and followed their specs.

Frank

Sorry Shoe.... didn't see that part. See you did it to me again. :lol: :lol:

If you're using ARP's.. follow ARP's guidelines..

Funny how all of this works out :P