Ok, I'm sure if you searched LT1 Tech you would find my everlasting brake problem after pulling my car out of the garage after over winter after the hotcam kit install.

Anyhow, I replaced everything including Master, EBCM, Booster, ABS Unit, LS1 Brake and bled these things religiously!

So now I'm just gonna ditch the ABS unit since in NO WAY can I even communicate with the EBCM to pull the codes for what's causing the ABS light! I've tried many scanners but I believe I have a wiring problem causing the communication error.

ANYHOW....I just ordered a Wilwood Proportioning valve so I can get rid of the ABS unit to maybe *fix* my ****ty *** brakes.

Of course I can't wait for this part to get here, so I decided to ask online for any tips installing this thing??? I see 1 inlet and 1 outlet. My question is, DO I HOOK IT TO THE FRONT BRAKE LINE OR REAR?

THANKS

 

A quick question for you. Do you say your brakes are lousy just cause the ABS light is on or is it because they are not functioning properly?

What year is your car? Have you ever scanned for other items like sensor readings?

When you did all the repairs, you would need to shuttle the ABS motors out and back to home. Since you can't scan the car, it's doubtful you could shuttle the motors. Your whole problem could be related to that.

I would think you should figure out the communication problem since you will need to figure out problems in the future. If you do indeed have a comm problem, it could be as simple as wiring.

 

Put the proportioning valve in line to the rear brakes. Obviously the front brakes will run off the mastercylinder through a "t", then to both wheels.

Good luck

 

FWIW, you dont need a prop valve to make this work. Myself and a few other members going alot faster then me simply run the rear brake lines to the front line on the Master, and the front line to the rear hole on the Master. Works AWESOME and I have never had any problems what so ever.

Q

 

Too late, already paid for it

Thanks for the reply guys, my car is a 93. And I know it's probly a wiring problem, would just rather get rid of the ABS all together instead of going through the car doing continuity tests.

Was just curious on which line to put the proportioning valve on. Since I never got into the brake system much besides replacing parts I don't fully understand WHY a proportioning valve is necessary to begin with. I understand how proportioning works, but not why you'd need one for the rear line when the fronts are obviously stronger?

 

Did this give you more stopping power on the rears? And I take that this is mainly just to get rid of the ABS?

 

Fronts ALWAYS do most of the stopping....rears, if too powerful, will lock easily and cause the car to go into "spin cycle" or get the dreaded wheel hop.

 

Thanks, but wouldn't the fronts lock up before the rears? Surely you must understand what I'm explaining?

At first glance I figured the Wilwood valve had 2 inlets and 2 outlets for adjusting the balance of line pressure to front/rear. But realized it just decreases pressure on which ever line its placed.

So either way it'll work, I was just asking questions to fully apprehend why

 

Ok, here's the deal. Even a car at a 50/50 weight distribution under heavy braking will transfer a great deal of that weight to the front of the car. Because of this weight transfer the front brakes have to account for around 70 to 80 percent of the braking force. So if say you have roughly the same braking force going to each wheel front and rear, there is a possiblity of all wheels locking up under high pedal pressures and the rears will beat the fronts to the lock up point. Everyday driving you may never see a problem but as soon as you take it to a road race I garantee your going to lock up the rears and leave yourself in a world of hurt.

The proportioning valve will help this problem. You install it on the rear circuit and then go out and have a freind watch as you come to a stop, not just a pull up to a stop sign stop, I am talking about a real stop, get those brakes to lock. When you can lock all four at the same time, you have a perfectly proportioned brake system.

 

that's what I was looking for

 

Glad I could help. I could tell from the question that you weren't getting the answer you were looking for.

 

why run the rear lines to the front port on the master and the fronts to the rear port? i just deleted my abs set up and run front to front and rear to rear with no prop-vavle. should i change that around?

 

It all depends on the master cylinder. Usually what you stated is correct. Front to front, rear to rear. But you should have verified this before starting the conversion. The conjoined brake masters usually have the same size piston for front and rear channels, which is another reason for needing a proportioning valve. Race cars running unassisted brakes will typically have two master cylinders and run a smaller diameter piston on the rear brakes and have a bias bar which the pedal pushes on to apply both at the same time and depending on the pivot point of the bias bar you vary the proportion of front to rear brake bias.

The master most likely has two different sized reserviours, one large and one small. The larger reservior was typically at the rear and would have the extra fluid to fill the rear slave cylinders of a large drum brake. I think they just carried this over to current all wheel disk cars because they already had it designed that way. You'll notice that a lot of the cars today use a shared or semi shared resvior for both front and rear because the rears don't need all the extra fluid as they wear down.

 

worst comes to worst i just have to switch the lines and put a prop-valve in. thanks for the info

 

Just got done installing mine.

Click here Proportional Valve Install this is the site I found.

He has a pretty good write up on installing a line lock as well.
Click Here
Link Lock Install