Tips on grinding a block for a 383?
 

After almost a month at the machine shop, I had to pick my block up today because I got tired of them saying "oh it'll definitely be done this week" for the 4th week in a row. Unfortunately they only had time to bore it and line hone the mains. I'm gonna call a few machine shops today to see how much it'll cost me, but I was toying with the idea of doing it myself since a friend told me it can get rather expensive.

Does anyone have any tips on getting this done? I heard of a few people getting into a water jacket, I was curious if anyone knows exactly how much you can grind before that happens :) I'm using scat h-beam rods and I'll add links to two pictures of where the #7 and #8 rods are hitting to give an idea as to how much grinding may be required.

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...-Cylinder7.jpg
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...-Cylinder8.jpg

Thanks!

I ground mine out using a marking pen to mark where the rod bolts hit the block. only ground where it was hitting and then just enough more to slip a wire tie between the bolt and the block. you need to set the crank in the block and connect a rod and piston. I folded up pieces of paper towel to set the crank in the journals and also around the rod journal inplace of using the bearings. You will get into the water jacket if you get carried away with the grinding. Don't forget to wash out the block with warm soapy water when your done.

Chris, contact Tim Harmon who operates a machine shop and builds engines in Angier, NC. His shop is connected to the CarQuest. He is not far from you and definitely knows his work. He races and builds race engines. He built a BBC for me a few years ago, when I lived there.

It is not that bad to do yourself, Call ARP they make a rod bolt that has a "1/2 head" on it. IOW half as tall as a reg rod bolt. This will allow you you take out ALOT less material for it to swing.



David

My shop did mine for $75 but it was part of the complete short assy the put together for me.