im confused,weld-in ,bolt-in, adjustable, non adjustable, brand ,prices.. ahhh, when ordering suspension parts should i go with the expensive adjustable parts? or just the non adjust? and what about weldin vs bolt in??i been looking at bmr and there are acr? on ebay for cheap and the mac torque arm on ebay for cheaper...??? should i just go with the BMR stuff?help please

 

For subframes, don't skimp. Weld in subframes are the way to go. As far as rear suspension components go, I'm sure adjustable has some benefit, but unless somebody can sell me on them, I'll stick with my non adjustable stuff. I have nonadjustable control arms, torque arm and panhard rod, and they help like a mo fo. I was launching on the street at 3500 rpms with my 3.42 gear on street tires (slipping the clutch a little, but still outlaunching everybody i raced.) Now when you put a 4.10 gear, well, suspension can only do so much without good rubber.

 

BMR makes good, relatively inexpensive suspension pieces. Depending on where you want to be with the car in a year, you can make some pretty safe decisions. As mentioned, weld in SFCs are a very good idea. Non adjustable LCAs and PHBs are probably fine and easy to resell if you need to down the road. If you lower the car, get some weld-in LCA relocation brackets. If you are really tight, watch the "parts for sale" forum and you can pick up some real deals. I got boxed LCAs for $85, an adjustable PHB (with spherical ends...) for $75, etc. Be patient and upgrade as good deals become available. If you can find a club in your area, you can get good deals from other members who upgrade and you save on shipping and can get help with install...

 

did you get the track -pac? or just the torque arm the connects to the tail housing? .. and what about brand ebay has the mac torque are for 189 and arc rear suspension for cheap or stick with bmr?

 

The above post have good info. I wouldn't bother with adjustable LCA's (at least for my application), but I would get the adjustable panhard bar (especially if you have plans to lower the car). You might want to check out DMS, they offer a full suspension kit (less torque arm) that is of good qaulity for a reasonable price, check out the GP section. I plan to go with the DMS kit when the time is right. As for torque arm, take a look at the Spohn TA, very nice. I plan on going the cheap route and welding two factory units together. As for SFC's, I also say go with weld in, you have 3 basic styles to choose from, single round tube (DMS,BMR), single square tube (BMR), double diamond (SLP, Kenny Brown). Do some searches, the cost and application should dictate the decision.

Scott

 

I haven't gotten a torque arm yet. If you do, make sure it's adjustable. I don't like the idea of it mounting to the tranny, but the one's that mount to the cross brace are pricey... The one I like best so far is the Spohn with front drive shaft loop. That's a NICE piece... See it here:

http://www.spohn.net/productimages/LT1TA_big.jpg

 

If you get the subframes from bmr beware that the boxed ones take away some clearance. The tubulars tuck right up in there, also defiently go with weld on.

 

If you plan to lower your car:
DEFINITELY get an adjustable Panhard Rod
DEFINITELY get some Control Arm Relocation Brackets

Lower Control Arms:
Unless you plan to get really crazy, non-adjust will work more than fine. I felt a definite improvement. Some say Boxed are better, some say Tubular are better...like I said, unless you plan to get really crazy, either will work great.

Subframe Connectors:
I say get bolt-ins, and then get them welded in later at your convenience Thats what I did hehe

I got a pretty good deal on my Competition Engineering subframe connectors. They are boxed, and they COMPLETELY tuck up into the body. EXCELLENT design, they look like part of the car from the factory. As far as quality, on par or better than similar connectors I've seen... Not many people have them, but they kick a$$

Other then that tho, BMR makes awesome products...larger diameter tubing, great powder-coating (all the pretty colors! ), etc..

Good luck!

 

why do i need the adj panhard ? my car is lowered

 

An adjustable panhard allows you to re-center the rear. Avoid boxed control arms if you want handling, if you drag race only then it probably doesn't matter. You'll find rod ended units at least on one side (Spohn), on an AutoX or RR car.

 

You get an adjustable PHB to re-center your rear.

I got Spohn LCAs and relocation brackets from www.sybersport.com eventhough I'm not lowered. Helped me hook alot better.