yes, i know the STB install is about as simple as it gets...4 bolts off, shove it on, 4 bolts on.

somewhere i've got a prob.

i'm trying to put a BMR STB on my 97 WS6, and it just won't go on. i removed all 4 bolts, unscrewed the a/c electrical connection (had a schrader valve), then finagled it on the passenger side. the driver's side, however, was about 0.5 inch to 1 inch too far...the holes on the driver's side were just past the studs.

although the car has a slight pull to the right and needs an alignment, i wouldn't think it would prevent an STB from going on. i measured the distance between bolts, and it's 3.0 inches OC. i also measured the distance between the bolts on opposite sides of the car...somewhere around 32 inches IIRC. the 32 inches matches up with the measurement for the holes on the STB...

any ideas? BMR's website doesn't say the car has to be jacked up at all...what gives?

travis

 

The WS6 may have a slighlty different strut distance like the Camaro SS. You may need the BMR STB002 which is designed for V6 and SS vechicles.

 

ah, yes...that's a good possibility. although i would've suspected that they'd put WS6 in the part where it says "not good for LT1 SS," but it's something i'll look into. i'll prob give BMR a ring today and see what comes up...

travis

 

Common problem, if I am reading your post correctly.

The shock tower bolts are not perfectly vertical... they point outwards at the top. So they are too wide for the STB to fit over them. On one side, you need to remove all 4 bolts on the top of the shock tower, jack the front of the car up, then stand on the wheel on that corner forcing the shock tower bolts to retract flush with the top of the tower. Place the bar over the bolts on the opposite side, and the holes on the side you retracted should be right over the retracted bolts. Step off the wheel to let the bolts move up into the holes.

 

thanks Injuneer! I called BMR and I have the correct STB.

i did notice that the inside bolts on each side of the car were angled in relation to the outside bolts.

any things to look out for when i do this? what sorts of shi'ite can i get myself into by pulling those four bolts?

 

Nothing will happen if you remove all 4 bolts - actually two bolts, and the nuts on two studs. The shock/upper spring seat can't go anywhere. The springs and sway bar are forcing it up into the tower. I found I could retract the bolts by putting a towel over the rim of the wheel, and stepping on it to retract the bolts. Just retract them far enough to get the brace over them. If you are nervous, just unscrew the two "bolts" so they are almost all the way out, but still have a thread or two engaged. That will prevent the shock studs from pulling all the way out of the holes.

Step off the wheel and the studs will push right back where they belong. There are no "alignment" problems, because the top of the shock/spring seat is not "adjustable - it fits rigidly in the tower. That's also why any alignment problem you already have is not the cause of your problem. All alignment on the 4th Gen front suspension is done with slotted holes at the lower control arm mounting bolts.

 

thanks so much...i prob won't be able to get back to it for a couple more days due to work, but i am much more optimistic! i was a bit agitated (to say the least) that i had spent all this time sanding/stripping/painting.

btw...if you need to take powdercoat off, discount auto has a good product that's 4 bux...it says "aircraft stripper" on it...works awesome.

travis

 

There is no physical difference in the unibodies. The only difference for the SS/WS6 is the design for the STB to clear the air box.

 

shoebox is right on this one...BMR said the same thing when i called...