Starter grind and clunk
 

Alright guys. Never had to deal with a starter problem before. It's on a 95 TA 6 speed. When I turn the key, it just grinds, and every once in a while it will make this really bad clunk sound. Pulled the starter and the teeth looked good, and the ones on the area of the flywheel it was engaging did too. Had the starter tested, and it came out fine.

It started off doing it about once every few times I started it, and now it won't ever start. Also, I noticed that the transmission mount was basically non-existent and allowed lots of transmission play. Any chance that could have anything to do with it?

Did you look all the way round the flywheel for damaged teeth?

I looked as far as I could see, and they all looked fine. Turned the engine at the balancer a little bit, and still would not start. The areas contacting the starter both times were in fine shape. On the starter, though, it almost looks like the very point of the teeth were ground down, like the gear was only coming out of the starter housing far enough to make that tiny bit of contact.

How can I test the voltage from the battery to the starter to see if it's not getting full 12 volts? When they tested it at Advance, it peaked around the proper level (110 IIRC) for just a second, then dropped down to like 60 or 70I'm a novice at best when it comes to electrical, but shouldn't it remain at the peak level for at least a few seconds?

Either the teeth are good or they aren't. Did you compare the old starter to a new one while you had it at the parts store? Then do so. It sounds as though the solenoid is not kicking out the gear far enough. Either it is not getting enough power, it is pulling too much power or it has a mechanical defect.

While you have it off. Clean the wires going to it and at the positive and negative junction on the passenger fender. Also do the ground strap from the engine to the frame on the driver side of the engine. Don't forget the battery too.

Now you can proceed to test for voltage drop while the starter is under load. Check the voltage across the battery while the starter is turning. It should not drop below 11 volts. If it does, have the battery load tested. Maybe do that at the same time you take the starter to the parts store.

If the battery is of sufficient size(rating) and is properly charged and the voltage still drops to an unacceptable level, then the starter is defective and pulling too much current.

Switched in a Duralast LT4 starter today, and as soon as the gears meshed, the grind was gone. NOW IT WON'T START!!!! It will turn over just fine, but will not fire up.

I also filled the engine with coolant because it blew a heater hose right before this problem. Haven't had time to test the opti, but worried I might have gotten coolant in it. This is becoming a chain reaction problem!!!

Heater hose ---> Bad starter ---> Car will not fire!

What's the sense of having it tested?
 

Anyway, with regard to the non starting problem. Scan it for codes. If there are opti codes present, replace the opti.

If there are no codes for the opti present, if the opti got wet, pull the cap off it.

And oh yeah, it would be better if you stuck with one post at a time.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=667792

Hmmm, don't know how that happened. I know I didn't make two almost identical posts 20 minutes apart. And yes, I'm going to pull codes and check fuel and spark. Gonna use the guide here and going to pick up a scanner today.

http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/foru...p?showtopic=78

And as for quoting the contradicting statements about the starter, they were both 100% accurate. The tests at Oreilly's AND Autozone came out with a big, green PASS, but upon inspecting it further, I noticed that there was abnormal wear on the tips of the starter gear. Switched it out for a new one, and makes full contact now.