Anyone ran or running a solid roller in an LT1. What kind of issues with clearance and knock sensors did you encounter? How is PVC at 248-252 duration with over .700" lift. Thinking about going wild with a 11.5:1 compression 355 and some LE3 heads.

 

knock sensor has to be bypassed or disabled. you can use a resistor or do it through the computer.

pvc at .700 on that cam will more than likely be a pain in the ***. who makes that cam. what size roller rocker is used to achieve that lift? if that number is with a 1.6 or 1.7 rocker then i would run a 1.5 to bring the lift down. lt1 heads dont gain any flow at those lift numbers.

 

The cam is a custom grind. I figured the knock sensor would just need to be disabled but wasn't sure what the PCM style LT1 computer needed lol. That kind of lift is being made with 1.7:1 ratio rockers. With 1.5:1, the lift is .609/.631, but as much lift as I can without having an clearance issues is what I'm trying to go for, as I want to squeeze any extra HP I can out of the engine.

 

The only way you are going to know if you will have PTV issues is to check it with all the parts, no one is going to be able to tell you if it is going to clear or not or by how much. But I think you'd have issues if running that with stock pistons.

 

I actually could tell him Ken.... but you really need to know everything about the cam. Lift ain't the problem it's the duration and LSA.

Bret

 

Duration is posted in the first post. it's big, 248 intake side, but bigger on exhaust at 252. LSA is 112*. ANy input would be helpful. I am gonna use the clay on piston method, but I'm concerned with PVC when it's hot. Bret, what other info would you need to figure PVC?

 

head gaskets thickness, deck height, cc on heads, dish on pistons. thats just some of the things you need to take into consideration. also valve size plays a role, or so ive heard.

 

Yes I know you could tell him, but there are few that have the ability to do that and even less that have the free time. So I didn't mention it.

 

As long as you have the valve adjustment right, I dont see why you would have knock. Mine isnt disabled, nor do I have knock. Im also using the LT1 knock module. One little trick is to not tighten the knock sensor down too far into the block. The more you tighten it, the more sensitive the sensor is.

 

I'm more than aware of this. But I wanted specific information to the LT1 itself. Brent, what size solid roller are you running in that 383?