Anything that ties the whole system together is going to help Tom.

Also compare stud girdle prices with Moroso... they make one for the centerbolt.

Yes, the Crowers are good lifters for the money. The Isky lifters I'm running right now have also been good to me in a couple of builds. Just don't expect that you'll never have to have them rebuilt. That's why these companies offer the service.

Good luck!

-Mindgame

 

How much do soild roller lifters cost from crower can't find a price..

 

Thanks Mindgame,

I couldn't find a price either.
I did looked at the moroso but it looked like the girdle used the u bolts. On the web site for mad man he shows a 2 piece gridle but I haven't been able to get a hold of him.


How often do you think those lifters need rebuilt?

Just curious what kind of timing chain did you use and what do you think of the Milodon oil pan?

I bought my top end package thru Joe Overton but I still have a few things I need

thanks
Tom

 

Sorry Tom, didn't mean to abandon this thread......

I'm running a billet double roller from Herbert Cams

http://www.primediapowerpages.com/cg...&2D1008079&2A8

Probably one of the best priced billet DR's out there. Scoggin Dickey also makes a nice one, although I believe that technically it's a RollMaster sold under their name.

Don't know about the Milodon pan, it wasn't really an option when I built my engine but Milodon's stuff is usually very good quality. May want to check with Stef's as well. Either that or stay with the stock pan as a lot of guys are running strong setups with the stock pan and no problems.

Best bet is to give Herbert a call on the lifters. I'd expect them to be ~$450.

-Mindgame

 

Thanks Mindgame,

I appreciate the info.

What shaft mounted rockers are you running? Did you run anything else before them?

Thanks
Tom

 

I'm using Jesel rockers and stands. Options on the rockers are standard slot, profiled tail, needle bearing roller tip (.250 wide) and shot peening.
The stands are from a previous build with these heads but the rockers are new (lower ratio).

T&D also builds a really nice set of shaft-mounts as does Crower.

Good luck.

-Mindgame

 

Mindgame,

If you were to put together a SR set up for a car what parts would you use other then the shaft mount stuff$$$ Lifters,springs,pushrods,rockers,guide plates

do you need a stud girdle and if so what parts are need for this as you have to go to bigger Vcovers

When you are getting a cam made for your set up what are you telling them..IE: Do you tell them all out race, street strip, DD and some track use, because you are under .600lift and making some very good power...

WHO do you get to make your cames

 

Schurters,

Understand that, though my cylinder heads require the use of shaft rockers, I don't feel they are a necessity for everyone running a solid cam. Just wanted to clear that up.

Parts I would use...... it depends. How much spring pressure? What kind of rpm? Stiffness and weight plays a big part in the valvetrain. Lightweight parts will require less valvespring than heavier parts.
On the rocker side of things, you want stiffness and lower mass in the areas that count. That said, it's tough to beat the chromemoly and stainless rockers like Comp ProMagnum, HiTech and similar Crower rockers. Those would be my choices for a stud-mount rocker with the stainless rockers going to more aggressive valve spring rates.

On the pushrod side of things you want stiffness. Weight isn't near as important as stiffness due to the low speeds on the pushrod side. There are alot of good brands but my favs are Manton and Comp.

WRT springs, there are some really good springs out there these days. PSI, Comp, Isky, Manley, Erson, LSM all make springs that I've used and would recommend. The new Comp "beehive" springs look like nice street springs (do a search in LT1 Tech for more info). They'll provide you with a very lightweight valvetrain mass... especially when used with a Ti retainer. I'm working with a friend right now (street solid roller cam, converted intake, 7k rpm) and these are the springs we'll probably end up going with. If this 353 doesn't make at least 475rwhp I'm going to sell a kidney... so this is going to be a serious ride (not a sole means of transportation).
Back to springs..... one of my other favorites is the Isky SP line. Probably one of the best street springs I've used and the same spring I'm running in my current setup.

Lifters.... well we already mentioned a few in these SR cam threads. For solids it's Isky, Crower and/or Jesel for me. I might try the Schubeck lifter out here in the not so distant future. However, the lifters I'm running right now are the endurance series Iskys with an aluminum top. They call for an even shorter pushrod and the lifter bodies themselves are relatively light. Nice lifters but not exactly cheap.

Guideplates.... if you have to have them..... Isky adjustable. They allow you to keep the pushrod right where you want it. Some guideplates just don't line up like they should, so these are better than file-to-fit modifications to standard plates. JMO though.

A stud girdle is a good idea. It ties all the rocker assembly into one which helps in minimizing rocker stud deflection. Again, we'll measure the effectiveness in relation to the severity of the cam/valvespring/etc..... you get the picture. So before the question of "how much does it help" is asked... you have to ask, "how radical is the setup?".

When you order a cam, you tell them your exact intentions. No "race" cams for the street. The lobe rates are just too aggressive. I would stick to a solid roller marketed as a "street roller grind". Most of these types of cams are still fairly aggressive but they are geared towards serious street apps that see track driving as well. Comp has a number of profiles that fall into this category.
I personally prefer Comp cams and have had very good luck with Cam Motion as well.

Good luck.

-Mindgame

 

WOW thanks for all the info...everthing that you are saying is making me more and more confident about doing this... the parts that i will pick and some i did not no about

If you could the 353ci you are working on ...what will the set up be. ....i would like to head the same way with my set up...

I am going to have to sell a kidney for this set up

 

Are the isky Lifters the correct length, Or do you need to mill the lifters bosses?

Also which part # are you guys using?

 

Looks like these will work.
66292-16 .842 bore. Not sure on the length though

Correct ?

 

I called Herbert and they told me Crower is out of business for a while.

Where can I buy the Isky lifters?

Thanks
Tom

 

Just talked with Dave Crower last week and he didn't say anything about being out of business?????? Like MG said get the Crower HIPPO lifters for the extra oiling insurance.They are about $500.00a set.These pressure oil the roller.
The Shubeck RollerX takes a special cam to go with the lifters because of the diameter of the roller and you have to drill the lifter valley for the lifter retainer holdown studs.Nice units and I will be trying them on my engine.I will be using the large dia.ones to take adavantage of an even larger wheel that lets me run more severe ramps without the fear of busting a roller,which from the design will not happen. (HOPE) RTBS
MG has been through this "Street" thing and so have I so people need to take notes on what he is saying GOOD INFO.,very nicely laid out.
DRE makes a real nice set of shaft rocker's also,ain't cheap but none of them are.Probe also makes a set but only 1.5 &1.6 ratio.

 

thanks I'll try calling Crower direct. He said something about them moving.
Are the Probe Shaft rockers any good?

 

They are not Jesel but about the same quality as T&D.I have not had any trouble with them and used several sets on customer's circle track engines.
If I can help you on price let me know.