To tell you the truth I dont put a lot of stock in hydraulic roller lash setting anymore. I usually give them half turn from zero, lock em down on the engine stand, and forget about em.

I have played with it before, while it is possible to see an increase sometimes I do not feel that it is worth my time and effort or the mess with a hydraulic roller.

Then again I have been winding my 355 up to near 7k with ls7 lifters with a few different cams under them with no problem.

*If you have seen huge hp increases from this thats fine, that has not been my experience*

FWIW. I have composite valve covers and they do very little to reduce the noise. Dont expect big improvements.

Joelius, mine sound the same. The instructions that cam with the kit call for 1/2 turn past zero lash though so maybe you should reset them just to be safe. After 100 miles of driving one of mine already came loose.

1/2 to 3/4 turn per shbox.com

Mine are very loud but i run em loose. I take em down to zero then bottom out the lock hand tight then CRANK down the lock and the outer nut. None have come loose. This is the method Lloyd reccomended to me.

Personally even with that setup 1/6 of a turn sounds minimal. I've adjusted numerous sets of rockers all different ways and to this day, I have the best luck with the engine running method. Simply back each one off until the audible clack is apparent, followed by tightening until the clack is gone, then 1/2 to 3/4 turn after that. Once done with that tighten the poly lock. You will literally be done in 15 minutes.

I have Pro Mags on my car, they are pretty noisy here too. They seem the loudest at like ~1600rpm cruising along in 5th gear at a very light load.

problem with overtightening is once at high rpm and the lifter is fully pumped up there is possibility of valve constantly staying off of seat a small amount

Yes, not a good thing at all.
You really want to adjust lash properly, see the cam manufacturer to specific recommendations.
I wouldn't go past 1/4 turn beyond zero lash.

They do quiet down with a little more pressure,
the issue (as cmroSS97 mentioned) is that at higher RPM (say 4000+) the oil pressure will
cause the lifters to "pump up" (plunger comes to the top) and the lifter preload
will be fighting the spring pressure which can lead to really bad sounds. (IE: BANG BANG BANG)

I prefer "tick tick tick" over "BANG BANG BANG".... but that's just me.:lol:

That and the whole inability to maintain cylinder pressure thing ... ruins your whole day.

I'm glad I ran across this. I have 2 LTx powered vehicles, both had dual valve springs on them with Pro mags. I always beleived that the springs had way too much seat pressure for what I needed, they were heavy springs, but not sure what part# they were.
I replaced them in my TA when I did a cam swap, the cam had some serious wear on the lobes probably from the spring pressures, at that time I swapped in PAC beehives and the sewing machine clicking was then appearent afterwards at 1800-2200 rpm at light throttle...under load it went away...
I tried resetting the lash to everything from 1/8 turn all the way to 1 full turn and everything in between at 1/8 increases and it never went away.
Swapped guide plates, still there...went to SA rockers...still there so I finally gave up and just lived with it...but it was not there with the dual springs.

Truck had dual springs too, and after 70k miles figured it was time for new springs...swapped in PAC beehives and also went from 1.52 to 1.6 Promags...yes the 1.52 were Promags also...and now it makes the same noise at only 2000-2200 rpms at cruise, much throttle and it goes away...again, with the dual springs it didn't make a peep of noise.
Since it does not do it under load and at such low rpms I've discounted that it was valve lash or slack in the valve train....
But maybe something with the harmonics of the lighter springs used in combination with the Promag rockers..I don't know but it seems odd that it occurred on both vehicles when I went to beehives..and I've checked and rechecked the pr length and install heights. I have the beehives at 1.72 and 1.73" install height.
Got about 10k miles on the TA since the swap and about 15k miles now on the truck and no probs just the noise at around 2k rpms.

Also thought maybe it was the valve guides getting worn...the noise does get louder after its warmed up..but since the truck did the same thing after the swap I don't think it is valve guide wear anymore, but I do have a set of brand new LE heads to put on at some point this winter just for kicks to see if it changes anything.

Mine get louder from ~2300-2600 then quieten back down. Kinda weird. :think:

When shopping for scorpion roller rockers, is there any LT1 specific rocker or will the ones for regular SBC work? Im looking for 1.6 7/16 NSA rockers..

Just have to make sure the ones you're getting are not "wide body" rockers or you may not be able to get your center bolt valve covers on. Might have to call them and ask about the widths. I dont know of anyone who makes a "narrow body" 7/16" stud rocker though. The set I had on an lt1 were 3/8" stud. I havent got a set near to me that are the 7/16 stud version that I could measure. I am sure scorpion will give you a heads up if you call them.

7/16 studs isnt an issue with pro mags though because of the shape of thier body, I have seen plenty of those used in lt1's. Aluminum rockers though tend to have a much more consistant cross section.

Thank you. I think im gonna have to contact Scorpion about that!

SCP 1003 sbc 7/16 1.6 nsa , I run the 1.7's SCP 1026 but I do have the Proform 141-131 valve covers. They are quieter than my 1.6 Promag's were and I have always set my lash at 3/4.