I went to get my windows tinted today, and when the guy went to start it to back it in, it wouldn't turn over. It was sitting out in the rain, but it doesn't leak or anything that I know of. We tried pushing it and popping the clutch, it worked for half a second then it died. did that 4 times. we have no decided that the security light is blinking when the key is in the on position and that means something's triggered it. my friend looked up some stuff and said that if you jump the purple and black wires in the steering column, or under the dash, that it should bypass it. I left the battery off for about an hour, but to no avail. has anyone ever dealt with this before? i had to leave it in gonzales and I'm really worried about it. I should be able to get a trailer tomorrow, but i'd rather drive it. Anything would be helpful. thanks.

 

I just responded a little while ago to a person with similar problems. There are a couple of things I will include here though. If it is the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) in order to bypass you will need at a minimum an ohmmeter. The first thing you need to do is check the resistance in your ignition key. When you do this, make sure that your fingers or nothing else is touching the probes because it could give false readings. After you know the resistance value its time to start buying resistors. (I usually go to Radio Shack) After that, follow what I said in this thread : http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=380883
And one other thing I'm not for sure what your friend was talking about on the black and purple wires unless he was talking about hot wiring the car. Even if that was the case, VATS would still not get the proper reading and not allow the car to run. Anyhow there will be 2 little white wires running up your stering column and there will be a short grey connecter somewhere along those wires. ( I believe it is for if you have to chance out the ignition switch you will not have to replace the entire lenth of wires) Disconnect that fitting and put one side of each of your resistor clip in the end of the fitting that runs off the steering column to under your dash. (not the side that goes up to the ignition switch)
Good Luck,
L8R

 

You should also try another key. It might be that simple.

 

sorry i forgot to mention i tried all 3 keys i have. thanks for the write-up shoebox, but i hate to disable the only defense i have against theft.

 

i'm pretty sure he just read it wrong. i now see that you just have to put a resistor between them.

 

If the resistor substitution works, it will get you home. Then you can do what you need to fix it.

 

that's what i mean. i read that you can just unplug the purple and black wires, put the resistor in that connector and tape over it? would that be enough? do you have any pics of what the resistors look like? thanks.

 

That will work if you can keep it connected. It's just a common resistor (or resistors) that you can get at Radio Shack.

 

shoebox, do you have a diagram of the fuse box? will this fuse trick work?

"go into the fuse pannel on the door and pull the PCM Bat. fuse and the PCM Ignt. fuse at the same time. leave them out for a few seconds then put the PCM ignt. fuse back in and try to start the car it should crank but not start. all you have to do after that is put the Bat fuse back in and the security light will go off and the car will start."

 

fuse trick didn't work cause i don't have a pcm bat fuse. used two resistors in series and it started right up. haven't made it permanet yet, but at least i got her home. thanks shoebox and everyone else.

 

Hm, I'm having the same problem and both of my keys don't work either. This led me to believe that it's the tumbler rather than the pellets in the keys that have gone bad. So will the resistor still work for now?

 

yeah, i'm pretty sure mine was the lock cylinder too. the resistors should work since when you install them, you disconnect the VATS from the whole column. I didn't cut any wires like shoebox's website though. I just stuck one end of each resistor into the back of the black plug that goes to the VATS computer and tied them together. (this is the one with the purple and black wires, not the white ones) this, therefore, didn't require me to cut any wires incase I want to change something later. I just wrapped it up with electrical tape. good luck.

 

1995 is the only year that the PCM BAT fuse is in the underhood fuse/relay panel.

 

I'm having problems with my LS1 and getting it to start as well. Somebody please help! I posted in the computer diagnosis section, and I can't even put power to my battery without my alarm going off. Someone PLEASE HELP!!

 

LS1's are a little different i think. try posting on LS1tech.com or google it.