Rocker Adjustment--Zero lash
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 174
From: Columbus, Ohio
Rocker Adjustment--Zero lash
Ok, I know there have been a million posts about this (I've read them all), however, I just want to review how I adjusted my RR's to make sure they're ok. First off, I have Comp R lifters and NSA Pro-Magnum Rockers.
My question is after you set your preload, should the pushrod spin freely--with little drag (I know there should be no up/downd movement). Working on #1 intake/exhaust I set these by:
1. Set #1 TDC (crank at 12, cam at 12)
2. While spinning the pushrod and moving it up and down found Zero
lash at the point where I could not move the pushrod up/down.
This was usually at the exact point where the nut just began
to seat on the RR.
3. Carefully took a socket wrench with a degree indicator and placed
it on the nut. Turned to 22.5 degrees (1/16 turn). This set my
preload.
4. Placed a wrench on the nut to hold it in place while using an allen
wrench to tighten the set screw.
In most cases, after setting my preload, I could still spin the pushrod easily. If after setting my preload, I couldn't spin the rod or it was tight, I did the process over again--figuring I didn't find Zero lash correctly.
Does this all sound ok, or did I set my valvetrain up too loose?? Thanks....
My question is after you set your preload, should the pushrod spin freely--with little drag (I know there should be no up/downd movement). Working on #1 intake/exhaust I set these by:
1. Set #1 TDC (crank at 12, cam at 12)
2. While spinning the pushrod and moving it up and down found Zero
lash at the point where I could not move the pushrod up/down.
This was usually at the exact point where the nut just began
to seat on the RR.
3. Carefully took a socket wrench with a degree indicator and placed
it on the nut. Turned to 22.5 degrees (1/16 turn). This set my
preload.
4. Placed a wrench on the nut to hold it in place while using an allen
wrench to tighten the set screw.
In most cases, after setting my preload, I could still spin the pushrod easily. If after setting my preload, I couldn't spin the rod or it was tight, I did the process over again--figuring I didn't find Zero lash correctly.
Does this all sound ok, or did I set my valvetrain up too loose?? Thanks....
Last edited by 95RagtopTA; Jul 18, 2004 at 08:17 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,725
From: Little Rock, AR
Sounds ok, except that your step 1 (should say "cam at 12").
If you read the adjustment procedure on my Tech Page, it specifically addresses what you are asking about. As soon as you set the preload, the lifter bleeds off and it feels loose again. This is normal.
If you read the adjustment procedure on my Tech Page, it specifically addresses what you are asking about. As soon as you set the preload, the lifter bleeds off and it feels loose again. This is normal.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 174
From: Columbus, Ohio
Thanks Shoebox 
, (fixed my typo). I figured that may be the reason. Guess I was just concerned that some ended up tight after preload--those must have been set too tight. I did redo those, so everything should be good 
.
, (fixed my typo). I figured that may be the reason. Guess I was just concerned that some ended up tight after preload--those must have been set too tight. I did redo those, so everything should be good .
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,737
From: waterford, MI - USA
yup, it will still spin. if you went and tightened it again (or loosened it and tightened it again) it will be off a little on the tight side. just as shoebox said, it will bleed down (squeeze the oil out). at this point, they will be fine to start the car. Id let it get fully warmed, change the oil, and then reset them with the eng. running. Im sur youve also read how that is done if youve read all the other posts.
chris
chris
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post