Ok i took my orginal motor out.. Stripped it down only thing we found wrong was a bent push rod ..... But we lost power in the car... Will a bent push rod alone make you lose power?

 

One cylinder is 12.5% of your engine. Add the imbalance of it not working to mess up the rest of the cylinders. I imagine it would cause a noticeable loss of power.

 

OK, bent pushrod? Thats one part of you motor that is working inefficiently of course you would loose power. Figure it as your car working on 7 cylinders. Fix it up, put it back together, let us knows whats happening. V8 not V7

 

Ok so anyone know what could cause a rod to get bent... Could it possibly happen from too much power? or torque?

 

No not atall.
Missadjusted valvetrain.
Piston to valve contact.
Overrevving cheap parts.

 

the reason i ask is becuase it happened after i installed a jet scu 2000 onto the car... becuase it has a gov. and the scu 2000 allows u to exceed that speed... because i wanted to run it on the track...
the engine had a lot of power... it actually lifted the front of the car off the ground when we tested it and then got up to around 130 car shut off and when we got it started again it had a one heck of a knock thought it was bottom end so pulled engine out and took it apart only thing we found was bent push rod.. up until then car ran great...

 

If you revved it high with stock valvetrain that is your cause.

Those of us who actually modify the engine can see 200HP more than GM delivered without a problem. We change things like valvesprings and such to get there.

You may think your car had a lot of power but judging from you mod list it really does not have much, a perfect bolton car might get a little over 300rwhp, your's is missing a lot of little tweaks to get there. These days 400rwhp is fairly easy without rebuilding the engine, IF you follow a proven reliable recipe which few folks do.

Replace the valvesprings with the pushrods, LT4 springs are fine for a stock cam, if you decide to cam it too then you need to match the springs to the cam.

 

I really don't know if its stock yet we haven't pulled the cam out of the block yet to see if it was a stock cam... Because i bought the car however it was....just know it was strong real strong til the engine messed up...

 

I'm slightly interested in this part...

"it actually lifted the front of the car off the ground when we tested it and then got up to around 130 car shut off and when we got it started again it had a one heck of a knock"

What track? What was the ET? 60'?

 

You have no idea how many people think they have something quick and then go out and run 16s.

Just a few weeks ago someone began ranting about how those of us who didn't like his parts choice were stupid, iside a week he went to the track and ran TERRIBLY like mid 13s out of a heads/cam f-body. Deleted the thread once the two threads wetre linked to eachother. He genuinely believed he had a great setup till he MEASURED the performance.

Far as the cam a picture of it would probably be enough to tell us whether it is stock or aftermarket..

 

Also this was one week before we was going to take it to the track...
So therefore we didn't get a chance to run it on the track blew engine 1 week before we was supposed to go...
sorry if i confused you at all on that...

Ok will do as soon as we remove it from the engine....
Btw any ideas on the rebuild of this engine i want it to be quick and more powerful than before....

Give me some links to some good cams and what not please your help would be greatly appreciated...
As i have two engines now .... This new one just started knockin so i'm going to rebuild the old one and i want to try to get into 11's straight motor...
Let me know what you think a good set up would be please and thanks...

 

Few cars have gotten 11s with just a cam. Plan on needing ported heads as well.

www.advancedinduction.com heads and cam package put my pig of a car into the 11s on motor in good weather. You have a pretty substantial weight advantage over me.