Question about head studs...
Question about head studs...
I'm in process of tearing down the top end and am considering head studs instead of bolts (have ARP bolts now). My biggest consideration is whether or not I will be able to get the heads on and off without having to remove the motor once the studs are in. Anyone have experience with doing this? Part # for head studs?
I'm spraying up to 150 shot (for now) so would like to keep the heads down as often as possible and plan for the bigger shot down the road.
I'm spraying up to 150 shot (for now) so would like to keep the heads down as often as possible and plan for the bigger shot down the road.
i dont see why youd have to remove the motor to get the heads out. i think the advantage of a head stud is that instead of torquing the head of the bolt, you are torquing down on the threads of the studs, therefore delivering more actual torque. to remove the heads youd just remove the nuts off the studs like you would remove the bolts from the heads. am i right?
the reason for studs is so you arent always threading into the block increasing the possibility of a stripped thread in the block. Not sure on whether they are removable with studs, I believe they are, you have quite a bit of clearance between the head and the cowl on both sides.
Thunder Racing has the studs. The part number is 113-134-4001. Summit has them too for a tad cheaper I think (they usually do). The part number at Summit is the same, the 4001 part anyway. Its just an SBC stud kit, nothing special for the LT1.
Maybe I'm thinking of it wrong but I didn't think you removed the studs once they were put in. If this is the case then I thought I would need to be able to pull the heads up higher to get them off of the studs where with bolts I just remove them and pull the heads off the block.
No, youre right, they stay in there like i said, the reason is so you arent always torquing bolts into the block chancing a stripped thread in the block. You should still have room over the studs to pull the heads off in the car.
roger that...I think we're on the same page now. The last thing I want to do is have to pull the motor just to replaced a headgasket. Sounds like I'm going to go ahead and get the studs. Thanks for the help
the studs are only going to be pertruding out of the block, what, like 3-4 inches? youll be fine removing the heads with studs in there. yes, you are going to have to lift straight up a couple inches, but you'll be fine.
Originally posted by reuter
the studs are only going to be pertruding out of the block, what, like 3-4 inches? youll be fine removing the heads with studs in there. yes, you are going to have to lift straight up a couple inches, but you'll be fine.
the studs are only going to be pertruding out of the block, what, like 3-4 inches? youll be fine removing the heads with studs in there. yes, you are going to have to lift straight up a couple inches, but you'll be fine.
Somebody needs to get in here that has experience with this. I would think you have plenty of clearance to clear the studs in the car. But you dont know until you do it or measure. Somebody thats done it???????????
You will not clear the Power booster nor the Heater Box.
Also the advantage of Head studs isnt because of it wont strip the threads its because when a Head Stud is used it is because it pulls the head down instead of pushing it with a head bolt similiar to a clamping force.
Also the advantage of Head studs isnt because of it wont strip the threads its because when a Head Stud is used it is because it pulls the head down instead of pushing it with a head bolt similiar to a clamping force.


