Question about Boring...please read
I have several questions about boring out an engine......
1. About how much does this cost? 2. What is better to go w/.....a 383 or a 396 and why 3. How much is this going to tear up my gas milage? 4. How much does it cost for new pistons to go along w/ this setup? Also, any comments are welcome.....Thanks for your time and help |
1. $125 - $200. Make sure the use a torque plate. If they don't, RUN!
2. Not sure what a 393 is...maybe you meant 396? That's debateable as to what is better...396 = more cubes = needs more air = most likely a little more $...You can search that topic as I'm sure it's been beat to death... 3. None, depends on the tune and the rest of the package. 4. $200 to $700. Depends what you want :) Hypers will be on the cheaper end, while economy/heavier forged will be cheaper, and then you get around $500+ when you get into Probe, SRP, JE, Ross etc. Don't forget you will need new rings too. Those will run you $100-$200+ Depending. Get some Speed Pro Plasma-Moly's and be done for $100...Then there is the "Total Seal" setup, also debateable...searchable... |
What if I don't stroke my engine.....and simply bore it to a 396....is it completely wortless?
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Originally posted by smokindastangs What if I don't stroke my engine.....and simply bore it to a 396....is it completely wortless? Maximum practical overbore for a stock block is 30 or 40 thousanths. At 40 over the displacement would be 357ci. Rich Krause |
So how does everyone get a 383 or a 396..(or 395). Do they buy a new block?
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Originally posted by smokindastangs So how does everyone get a 383 or a 396..(or 395). Do they buy a new block? Stock: 4.00" bore x 3.48" stroke = ~350ci 383: 4.030" bore x 3.75" stroke 396: 4.030" bore x 3.875" stroke Rich |
ahh...gottcha. Thant makes perfect sence. If I do stroke it, will I haveto get a new crossmember to accomodate the deeper oil pan?
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Ok, size of an engine is bore AND stroke.
(1/2 bore)^2 x pi x stroke x 8 = Displacement. To get to 383 it is a 4.03 bore and 3.75 stroke. To get to 396 it is a 4.03 bore and a 3.875 stroke. I would recoment sticking with a 383 because most shops arent very knowledgable about 396 and it isnt done as often as 383. |
Yeah, thanks....I realize how dumb I was now. I feel stupid, but now I am educated....Also, how much do these deep oil pans cost?
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No your stock K-member will be just fine. You can use your stock oil pan as well, you will just need to get it clearanced for the longer stroke of the 383 (as well as getting your block clearanced as well)...
Some builders reccomend getting a Canton 242T oil pan. Don't feel stupid, everyone started out not knowing anything at some point. :) |
Another rookie question.....what does getting the block and the oil pan clearanced intail?
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Im actually suprised more people dont go with 396's ... They try to cram every extra HP out of their setup, bickering for a month about which CAI is going to get them that extra half a HP. Then when they blow up, Everyone goes 355 or 383.
Is there any reason to stay away from a 396? It seems like it would be every bit as reliable as a 383 ( Reliable as in, Cylinder wall is still the same thickness ) and with the extra cubes it would probly save you a few hundred RPM's to the peak power of a cam, so technically, compression aside, wouldnt a 396 be more durable since your not having to spin as high of a RPM ... ??? |
Those Canton pans run in the ~$270ish range. I'm trying to set up a deal (Group Purchase) with a supplier I know to maybe save us ~$20-$30 off the price, I need to find out how I can maybe gather interest on here though.
Don't forget you'll need the matching canton oil pump pickup as well (Not much at all, less than $30 if I remember right). |
If the stock one is sufficient (once clearanced), why spend the extra money?
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Originally posted by HardcoreRM125 Im actually suprised more people dont go with 396's ... They try to cram every extra HP out of their setup, bickering for a month about which CAI is going to get them that extra half a HP. Then when they blow up, Everyone goes 355 or 383. Is there any reason to stay away from a 396? It seems like it would be every bit as reliable as a 383 ( Reliable as in, Cylinder wall is still the same thickness ) and with the extra cubes it would probly save you a few hundred RPM's to the peak power of a cam, so technically, compression aside, wouldnt a 396 be more durable since your not having to spin as high of a RPM ... ??? There's probably some gee whiz bang technical reason for not doing it either, but for me it was cash. :irk: Dave C. |
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